I think I might fix the missing cam woodruff key and see if I can read the cam number provided its on the front of the cam. Go from there.
318 std piston quench with aluminum heads?
- Thread starter 340inabbody
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Good idea!
You are better off getting pistons that give you zero deck or close then set the quench with the gasket thickness.
Hey @polyjohn I can’t seem to PM as there is no option. Can you please PM me I have a question for you.Happy New year to all on here!
That's a 318 Poly forged crank so a premium part indeed, it has nodules on the flange.
Poly 318 fully floating rods are the same as 273 and are the lightest.
Its the rods that are a problem, probably later forging and are much heavier.
Then you have a different weight piston so a re-balance would have been a 'must do'.
How many folks rework their 318's and never have a re balance done?
Piston change has the least affect, but a rod change is a huge one.
The different rod bolt nuts is a sign of something amiss
View attachment 1716495414
I was contacted by a guy doing a 318 with 'J-heads' here in the UK.
He was talking about milling the block and the heads, blah, blah. blah.
Huge numbers off the block 80 thou and 20 off the heads to give 10 to 1 comp.
But the intake manifold faces will be a country mile out and will need serious amounts ''TOO'' to correct!
Buy the right pistons for the job and re-balance the crankshaft, rods, pistons and do it right...
If we call the 'J-head' its proper title, (which is the 360 head) then its a smog head!
It was designed for low comp 'smog work' and worked very badly indeed.
So Mother Mopar re-invented the the 318 in 1978ish with the Copcar motor.
Yep a 318 with late model 360 heads and ''did it work''???
We would have to find some policemen from the late 70's to find out the truth...
He was talking about milling the block and the heads, blah, blah. blah.
Huge numbers off the block 80 thou and 20 off the heads to give 10 to 1 comp.
But the intake manifold faces will be a country mile out and will need serious amounts ''TOO'' to correct!
Buy the right pistons for the job and re-balance the crankshaft, rods, pistons and do it right...
If we call the 'J-head' its proper title, (which is the 360 head) then its a smog head!
It was designed for low comp 'smog work' and worked very badly indeed.
So Mother Mopar re-invented the the 318 in 1978ish with the Copcar motor.
Yep a 318 with late model 360 heads and ''did it work''???
We would have to find some policemen from the late 70's to find out the truth...
Hey @polyjohn I can’t seem to PM you as there is no option. Can you please PM me I have a question for you.
mgoblue9798
Well-Known Member
John any idea how thick the block deck is after taking that much off? Any problems with head gaskets sealing?
The piston options are slim, but once you defile the block that much your stuck with the pistons you have. Hope they offer oversize with the same specs!I was contacted by a guy doing a 318 with 'J-heads' here in the UK.
He was talking about milling the block and the heads, blah, blah. blah.
Huge numbers off the block 80 thou and 20 off the heads to give 10 to 1 comp.
But the intake manifold faces will be a country mile out and will need serious amounts ''TOO'' to correct!
Buy the right pistons for the job and re-balance the crankshaft, rods, pistons and do it right...
If we call the 'J-head' its proper title, (which is the 360 head) then its a smog head!
It was designed for low comp 'smog work' and worked very badly indeed.
So Mother Mopar re-invented the the 318 in 1978ish with the Copcar motor.
Yep a 318 with late model 360 heads and ''did it work''???
We would have to find some policemen from the late 70's to find out the truth...
Much easier to purchase Icon 845's. The machine work will likely be 3-400 bucks for that much decking.
What I would do is actually MEASURE your deck clearance now. Since the 318 pistons came with a myriad of compression heights through the years, the only way to know what you have is to put a depth micrometer across the bore and see where it really is.
I have a cop 318 that had 1.88 heads on it and the piston to deck was roughly .050"~ down. Its a bummer that the aftermarket doesn't offer a decent cast piston considering how many units were produced.
I run Fel Pro (1008 as I recall) or Cometic gaskets and good bolts.
Never have an issue but both head surfaces and deck are milled and straight.
Never had a problem with production blocks but I do sonic test them and had a
lot to choose from (Still have a bunch of core stuff). For the performance levels
that most guys are at on here = They are fine.
Now (Last 30 years),I run either an R block or an Industrial or big HD truck block which are High Nickel
and extremely thick. Also. Mopar Performance helped me out with a 1/2 dozen Trans Am
Blocks that they found in an Ohio Warehouse some years after the program was phased out.
They are heavy as hell but Incredibly THICK! That is what is any many of our Stock/Superstock cars.
John, how do we identify the Industrial block?
I look for big trucks. The block in the Superstock Aspen came out
of a 70 something 16 Ft. Refrigerator truck. It had the 360 rods
and a double roller chain with a steel crank.
When I get to the shop, I will see what the block number was as
it was not a common one. I have not had a chance to pick up a
318 motorhome engine yet to look and sonic one yet.
of a 70 something 16 Ft. Refrigerator truck. It had the 360 rods
and a double roller chain with a steel crank.
When I get to the shop, I will see what the block number was as
it was not a common one. I have not had a chance to pick up a
318 motorhome engine yet to look and sonic one yet.
@Garrett Ellison can tell you how to identify the heavy duty truck and industrial blocks.
Thanks, no hurry.
All the heavy duty industrial blocks I have seen have a large “I” cast into the side of them.
mgoblue9798
Well-Known Member
Some of the 318 motorhome engines had the 318-3 forged crank. It was supposed to be the strongest stock smallblock crank around in the early days.
If they had that crank they likely had the better block as well, but who knows with ma mopar.
Do you know if there is a discernable difference between the 273 and 318 steel crank. I have one that's 10/20.
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