318 std piston quench with aluminum heads?

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I think I might fix the missing cam woodruff key and see if I can read the cam number provided its on the front of the cam. Go from there.
 
You are better off getting pistons that give you zero deck or close then set the quench with the gasket thickness.
 
Happy New year to all on here!

That's a 318 Poly forged crank so a premium part indeed, it has nodules on the flange.
Poly 318 fully floating rods are the same as 273 and are the lightest.

Its the rods that are a problem, probably later forging and are much heavier.
Then you have a different weight piston so a re-balance would have been a 'must do'.

How many folks rework their 318's and never have a re balance done?
Piston change has the least affect, but a rod change is a huge one.

The different rod bolt nuts is a sign of something amiss:poke:

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Hey @polyjohn I can’t seem to PM as there is no option. Can you please PM me I have a question for you.
 
I was contacted by a guy doing a 318 with 'J-heads' here in the UK.

He was talking about milling the block and the heads, blah, blah. blah.
Huge numbers off the block 80 thou and 20 off the heads to give 10 to 1 comp.

But the intake manifold faces will be a country mile out and will need serious amounts ''TOO'' to correct!
Buy the right pistons for the job and re-balance the crankshaft, rods, pistons and do it right...

If we call the 'J-head' its proper title, (which is the 360 head) then its a smog head!
It was designed for low comp 'smog work' and worked very badly indeed.

So Mother Mopar re-invented the the 318 in 1978ish with the Copcar motor.
Yep a 318 with late model 360 heads and ''did it work''???

We would have to find some policemen from the late 70's to find out the truth...:mob:
 

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