340 help

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Short block - no top end - no heads, intake, etc.
 
No internals - Bare block.

If buying or selling, be sure to look for / mention matching main caps.

IE - Bare block with original main caps.
 
Bare block should include the main caps also.
 
Shamrock--WV2NC said:
This guy says he has a 340 and a 340 short block. That's why I'm asking.
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I would assume one 340 is complete, and the other is missing heads, intake, and maybe front timing cover. If you go look, I'd be sure to pull the oil pan and look at a rod and main bearing.
 
You need to ASK the seller. Some people have "funny ideas" of what a block/ short block/ bare block/ long block/ complete on and on. I agree with the definitions posted so far, that does not mean that is what the SELLER thinks he has

Also ask what has it been bored, and if it has any problems, has it been magnefluxed, and DOES IT HAVE any special factory markings, AKA oversize lifter bores. This stuff is documeted in the back "specs" sections of the service manuals, which you can download, free, at MyMopar. No, I don't work there
 
67Dart273 said:
You need to ASK the seller. Some people have "funny ideas" of what a block/ short block/ bare block/ long block/ complete on and on. I agree with the definitions posted so far, that does not mean that is what the SELLER thinks he has

Also ask what has it been bored, and if it has any problems, has it been magnefluxed, and DOES IT HAVE any special factory markings, AKA oversize lifter bores. This stuff is documeted in the back "specs" sections of the service manuals, which you can download, free, at MyMopar. No, I don't work there
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Better yet, grab your calipers and measure the bore to verify what it is. I've seen lots of .030 bores end up being .060 over. Always verify.
 
Shamrock--WV2NC said:
This guy says he has a 340 and a 340 short block. That's why I'm asking.
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From this I would assume, (first problem there!) that he knows what he has (not allways the case) and a 340 block is just the block and main caps. I would hope it also has the oil filter plate so can just screw on a filter.

(An edit here. Added in after I was notified of my mistake.
Thank you 318 willrun. WHAT WAS I THINKING?!?!
LMAO! )

Short block is block, crank, rods, Pistons, bearings, rings. May or may not Include cam, lifters & timing chain and gears.

A long block is a fully assembled block with fully assembled heads. No intake, may or may not Include a timing cover & have timing chain and gears in it.

ASK!
 
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rumblefish360 said:
A short block is a fully assembled block with fully assembled heads. No intake, may or may not Include a timing cover & have timing chain and gears in it.

ASK!
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Not where I live, Rob. A short block does not have the heads or intake. A fully assembled block with heads is a "long block", but no intake.

A perfect example of why the OP must go see what the seller is calling what... :)
 
Ops! My bad, going to correct that now.
Thanks for the note.

Your right! I don't know where my head went. I made the correction above to what it normally is with often seen variables.
 
I'm trying to get to see them today or tomorrow. Here's what he has

1. 340 block with crank and caps
2. 340 block fresh machine work .030 over with the pistons. No cam no heads no intake

There is a $1000 price difference between the 2.
Is the extra money worth the machine work and pistons?

Or screw that and go la360 or 360magnum?

Whenever I put this engine in my car, it will be the last. Until I blow it up or something. I almost bought a 360 last week but it was locked up like ft Knox.

I know it's my car and I should do what I want. But some opinions are welcome.
 
Here, I can get a good running 360 magnum any time I want for 350-400 bucks with about 150k miles on it. To me, I'd throw an intake on it (Chinese knock off 160 bucks), get a cam from a '89 360 (roller but has the fuel pump eccentric) or use the hughes fuel pump eccentric (like 25 bucks), put your LA front on it with a car 360 oil pan/pick up tube and be done.

just be sure to get the flexplate with the 360
 
Shamrock--WV2NC said:
I'm trying to get to see them today or tomorrow. Here's what he has

1. 340 block with crank and caps
2. 340 block fresh machine work .030 over with the pistons. No cam no heads no intake

There is a $1000 price difference between the 2.
Is the extra money worth the machine work and pistons?

Or screw that and go la360 or 360magnum?

Whenever I put this engine in my car, it will be the last. Until I blow it up or something. I almost bought a 360 last week but it was locked up like ft Knox.

I know it's my car and I should do what I want. But some opinions are welcome.
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I would definitely want to see reciepts for the work done and bring your measuring tools to verify the work done is correct.
Ask him why he's selling it...........Sometimes it ends up that he knows something you don't and he's trying to pass off junk just to get rid of it.
If it ends up being .060 over, i would want to see a sheet with the sonic check results and a magnaflux check as well.
Is it balanced? You didn't say anything about rings or bearings so i doubt it........
Was a torque plate used when it was final honed and for what type of rings?
Decked and squared?
Crank specs?
Rods and rod bolts used?
Could be a decent deal if all of this checks out.
If suspect, maybe consider buying the block and crank and do it right with a reputable machinist.
You get what you pay for, and quality work is worth it in the long run............
Just my 2 cents.
 
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For you,I would skip on the 340 original stroke and go straight to a 360.
In a DD or streeter you can run less cam and get more low speed torque production out of it with all other parts equal. But when the compressions are optimized for the cam,in that 360, you will get even more bottom end torque. This lets you run less gear,for hiway cruising. And for me the clincher was fuel-mileage. With the ever-rising cost of fuel, the 360 can be engineered to deliver incredible economy, yet still make a lot of power.
Yeah sure, either can be engineered to have the same power, but this is IMO,only good for racers. On the street power at 6000 is not always what you want. Sometimes just getting off the line briskly is, and 4.10s are not usually on the table.
Some say compression is not that big of a deal. And for most that might be true. But for a hot streeter, I disagree. The more you run the better. Throttle tip-in, the low-speed performance,Torque in the midrange, and fuel economy will all benefit with the compression maxed out. As to power, it's true that there is only marginal difference between 10/1 and 9.5/1. But I will never again build a less than optimum engine for myself.
By having your very own 360 core, you can engineer it from day1, to suit your useage. And when your A/F-body rusts to dust, you can pull the 360 out and stick it into a truck for many more years,lol.
If you have a choice, a Magnum roller is the thing to get.And closed chamber heads. You can also run more compression with aluminum heads too; so there is that as well.
so my vote goes to a 5.9Magnum.
 
Shamrock--WV2NC said:
Do I need the computer to run a magnum? I plan on using a carb.
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A carb intake and a carb. You'll use your 318 distributor, and wiring. you'll need to figure out how you are getting the fuel to the carb. Mechanical pump has a couple of options I listed above. An electric pump would eliminate the need for a fuel pump eccentric.
there are some good threads out there for magnum swaps. I'd dig a little........
 
Shamrock--WV2NC said:
Do I need the computer to run a magnum? I plan on using a carb.
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No, as 318WR said, I used an Edelbrock electrical fuel pump designed for there carbs and no regulator needed. Run 1 hit wire to the pump with there relay kit and the ground wire from the pump to the car body. Done. BANM! EZ fix and constant fuel. Fills the carb bowls in a 2/3 seconds.
 
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