340 stroker

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My next engine is an R3 block using a 340 main 3.58" crank with 2.1" rod pins and Indy heads with a solid roller. Thinking about a bore of 4.08".
 
Silly question, when you have a stroker like a 416, are 275/60r15 bf Goodrich radial ta's ok for driving or do you need something that sticks to the road better?
 
Silly question, when you have a stroker like a 416, are 275/60r15 bf Goodrich radial ta's ok for driving or do you need something that sticks to the road better?
You can drive on them fine, my 408 will however easily get rubber with Cooper Cobras into 4th gear lol. All at the discretion of your right foot.
 
For street driving the rubber is of little issue. The drivers right foot is more of a concern. Not the tire.

What ever tire is good by you, be it powered by a /6 or 318-2bbl., it will be the same with a stroker, big block stroker or blown HEMI stroker. Punching the go pedal to the point of tire spin is where the limit is. Before that, no difference.
 
Even though this an old thread it's a good topic and i have since decided on and built a 371.
My thoughts were for the best all around street engine in a light A body.A friend put a 408 in
his Dart and got excessive tire spin in any gear right up to highway speeds on his street tires.
 
Yea... the unfortunate byproduct of a mad amount of torque !!!!!
dam strokers!!!!
 
a big torque number in a light car ...great for the quarter mile with slicks.
 
who have built a 340 / 372 stroker
Scat offer cast and forged crank rotating assemblies.
how do you like this combination?
I have a 4.04 x 3.58=367 and with Eddies and a 230* cam, and it's a streeter's dream at 10.9Scr with the KB 107s....... I couldn't wish for more. I'm actually thinking a lil less would be ok, to get back a lil fuel mileage. I'm thinking of a tighter LSA is all, and shedding a lil exhaust duration.
Mine is a cast-crank 360 base. My butt-dyno thinks peak power is about 5200, but I rev her to 7000...... because I can,lol.
 
Silly question, when you have a stroker like a 416, are 275/60r15 bf Goodrich radial ta's ok for driving or do you need something that sticks to the road better?

Richard, I think I might know what you're thinking;
my stock-cam, stock-longblock,1973,low-compression,318 blows those off with 3.55s and a 904 at 2800TC,with headers and an old TQ.
My HO-360 will spin 325/50-15s, to long after 60mph, with a street suspension,with those same 3.55s, but now an A833.I had to install 295s for around town, just to stop it from spinning out on the turns, and I still can't floor it, without being extremely cautious.
..... So you pose an excellent question.

So how much quicker is a 408 to 35mph?
How much quicker to 60?
And how much throttle can you use around town?
Aye;there's the rub.
 
I have a 4.04 x 3.58=367 and with Eddies and a 230* cam, and it's a streeter's dream at 10.9Scr with the KB 107s....... I couldn't wish for more. I'm actually thinking a lil less would be ok, to get back a lil fuel mileage. I'm thinking of a tighter LSA is all, and shedding a lil exhaust duration.
Mine is a cast-crank 360 base. My butt-dyno thinks peak power is about 5200, but I rev her to 7000...... because I can,lol.
AJ, back down 1 cam size, 224@050 and port the heads. Find a high lift cam and use 1.6 rockers. A 108 is what your looking for on the cam. The engine is large enough for it. You should have a new peak around 6K.
 
AJ, back down 1 cam size, 224@050 and port the heads. Find a high lift cam and use 1.6 rockers. A 108 is what your looking for on the cam. The engine is large enough for it. You should have a new peak around 6K.

I'm already ahead of you, and
already been there, except for the porting. The 223* was my favorite, and I spun that one to 7000 as well. Current cam is .549/.571 IIRC with 1.6s
I did not like the 292/108 Mopar cam tho
I'm not looking for more power. I got way more than my chassis can handle. And I'll be 65 here in a few weeks so it's time to slow down IMO. And I'd like to get back to those earlier mpg numbers that the 223 was giving me, so I can afford to drive it a few more years.
I'm gonna trade away a couple of intake degrees and a few exhaust. Then I'm gonna wind up the overlap, split it, and share what's leftover between compression and power. Then I'm gonna target 190psi, and increase extraction. Then I'm gonna tune the dickens out of it, and install my hiway gears. Then I'm gonna chase down 30MPGs US again, point to point, cuz 100kph will be 1870 with 28s, just about where reversion will have stopped with that cam. Ok maybe mid 20s,lol.
But I degress
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I'm thinking 228/234/104.... But I'm gonna convert that to a tight-lash solid; so something like 238/244/104,to get a net of 268/274/104.... Yeah that should net me about the same intake/exhaust that the current cam has, but with faster lobes, and the same overlap; but with an additional 22 degrees to share between compression and power. And Ima gonna plug 13 of 'em into extraction.
With an Scr of 10.9/ICA of 57*, that'll get me 190psi@ at a VP of 173..boohahaha
HYUP, something like that,lol.
You know the factory 360-2bbl cam totaled 240* for compression plus extraction? Same as my new cam could be,lol.
I suppose I could do that with a hydro.... but I just wanna say I got a solid. And I'm running so little preload on my hydros now that I gotta keep on top of the adjustment anyhow, so solids are no big deal to me.
But I get you on the porting.too. I just like my 230 so darn much....... Well actually I just like the sound of a screaming 360 at 7200 thru dual 3" pipes.... for 5 or 6 seconds atta time lol.
But I digress,again
 
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OK, I got about half way through before my eyes blurred.

Spinning that to 7K is an absolute waste. Your making way less power than at lower rpm’s and your just killing it for no reason.

It’s actually crazier than your overly long winded posts. And there’s more Sanity releasing mass murders. But hey, do what ya like......
 
It's a streeter and spins to waaaay past 65 mph so what do I care....... even at 7000/7200,lol.
And so far I've got over 100,000 miles out of her, with all that abuse,lol.
Sorry about your eyes, but thx for reading; I did put a page-break in there for ya to rest your eyes on.
If you reduce your screen size to about 80%, it all fits on one screen.
 
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It's a streeter and spins to waaaay past 65 mph so what do I care....... even at 7000/7200,lol.
Because it is a waste of fuel to make less HP & Tq @ that rpm while adding undue stress to the engine.
If you want to stress your engine out that way well, I see a rebuild in the future ........ that wasn’t needed.
 
If you want to stress your engine out that way well, I see a rebuild in the future ........ that wasn’t needed.
Seems AJ just wants to hear that engine scream... no matter the waste of fuel... and as he stated his little motor took that for over 100K now. :)
 
..this combination was not easy to come by when the 4" kits were everywhere.
..but now Scat offer about five 340 / 372 combinations staring around $1000 w hyper
pistons or $1200 balanced.
thinking 372 might be a better "all round" engine than the 4" torque monsters.
your thoughts?

Better all around....no, sorry its not....but if it is what you want then go for it, its your motor, build it however you like.

It seems a lot of people here have the misconception that engines with 4" and bigger cranks won't or don't like to rev or that they are slow to rev.

My 408 was very quick, it was fastest shifting at 6400 because it was running out of head flow, it had the cam and everything else was there it was just running out of air.

I completely agree, My 410 stroker did the same, ran the best shifting in the ~6500 range. You just need good heads....
 
Naaa, he’s just pulling my chain.
Late April fools joking around.
 
Better all around....no, sorry its not....but if it is what you want then go for it, its your motor, build it however you like.

Just some thoughts and all are arguable....
more ecomomical to build?
quicker revving and accelerating with stock heads?
better mileage ?
more stabil pistons?
less piston speed for the same rpm?
much less long term wear?
better bore to stroke ratio?
much better balanced package for the street in a light car where big torque is not necessary?
 
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I am in the process of building one right now for customer, going to be a 374, rotating assembly from scat and promaxx heads, i am very excited to see how it runs.
 
I’m running a 4” crank in my 440 small block. In my situation i could go with a lot more crank and get to the 470s but IMO at the 4.187 that I’m at now I get enough inches. Before this motor I was running a stock block with a 4.2”??? Stroke Crank Not sure but the crank was outrageous made 421 ci that motor was sleeved in 6 cylinders. The geometry was crappy it ate up the cylinders. If you can make the power with less stroke then why give your motor the extra unishment? Not sure if this is ir3333 reason but I completely understand that having all the stroke you can does play a part in wearing out the motor
 
you can buy a 3.58 stroke 340 main crank....use stock rods...and KB 107 with a 4.07 bore if you want a budget one

That is good to know, I have a buddy that lives up the street from me that has been begging me to take a 3.58, 340 main forged crank from him, it is a new in the box, Mopar Performance or Direct Connection one from the early 80's.
I may just go up there tomorrow and pick it up.
He tried to give it to me last time I was up there helping him.
 
I have posted this before ... i know builder \ racer who raced a 70 340 duster that ran 11.47.He stroked it to 372 and changed nothing else...same heads,cam, gears etc and ran 10.47
Not trying to suggest that a 372 is faster than a 416....but certainly a good choice for a light A body.
...come to think of it didn't a fellow in New Jersey win " Pinks all out" a few
years ago with a blue 372 duster running 9's?
 
That is good to know, I have a buddy that lives up the street from me that has been begging me to take a 3.58, 340 main forged crank from him, it is a new in the box, Mopar Performance or Direct Connection one from the early 80's.
I may just go up there tomorrow and pick it up.
He tried to give it to me last time I was up there helping him.
If you don't want it let me know. If price is right I'm interested for sure.
 
If you don't want it let me know. If price is right I'm interested for sure.
I will go up and see him in a few days, like I said he wanted to give it too me, but I would feel bad, he is disabled, retired but still building cool cars.
I would not feel right unless I paid him a reasonable price for it.

He did say it was his spare crank, from when he was racing his duster back in the late 70's to early 80's, he had that old duster in the mid to low 6's in the 1/8 mile running 318 blocks, W-2 heads and nitrous.
Now he is just putting around in a healthy big block chevy powered 32 ford 5 window.
 
I will go up and see him in a few days, like I said he wanted to give it too me, but I would feel bad, he is disabled, retired but still building cool cars.
I would not feel right unless I paid him a reasonable price for it.

He did say it was his spare crank, from when he was racing his duster back in the late 70's to early 80's, he had that old duster in the mid to low 6's in the 1/8 mile running 318 blocks, W-2 heads and nitrous.
Now he is just putting around in a healthy big block chevy powered 32 ford 5 window.
Oh yes I had no expectation of free. Let me know what it is and what he would want and we can go from there. Let's continue this with PM.
 
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