Going to put a 360 in instead?
Hardly. lol
360-383 A-debate...max builds need not apply.
- Thread starter pishta
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Hardly. lol
I’m going to peer at the edge of this whole new rabbit hole for a moment... I remember you freshened up the bottom end and set it at 7.8:1. Is it a stock bore block? I guess I’ll have to watch your videos again. There’s already a 440 I could get for the crank and make 440 plus incher out of it...
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pishta
I know I'm right....
The Vortec head had 20 more years of development than the 906. I liked that episode. The should do a 340 Buick to a 340 Mopar.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
One thing you can do with a 383 is use a 4.25 crank in a stock block and bolt on a set of out box TF 240 heads and make over 750hp, how easy is it with a. 340?
I've seen it done, a very no trick combination.
I've seen it done, a very no trick combination.
Yup. Totally stock bore and stroke. Really nice pair of 906s, mild cam. I'd bet my hind end it's every bit of one LB FT per cube.
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Having owned both there is ZERO comparison OR the Buick I had was just a turd. Not only was it pathetic, performance-wise, it got 6-8mpg in town (1967 340 four barrel, two-speed auto). Otherwise it was a nice car until the AC compressor took a dump on a hot summer day.
Oh Boy! I keep getting closer to the edge here... How far below TDC are the pistons?
Why in hell does that even matter? You know there ain't no quench. LOL .115" if I remember right. It's all in the bare bones 400 thread.....but I'm almost positive that's the number. I didn't even measure for compression. What would the point have been? I did use the steel shim head gaskets though.
No argument there, LOLOL!
Using 88 cc chamber I get 7.7xx:1. That's probably real close. No spark knock worries there. lol
It should run good on Georgia jungle juice.
Man I wished you had that 383 you were building a few years back. It was a sweet build you were planning.
That's another project laying a head of me... my 383It should run good on Georgia jungle juice.
Man I wished you had that 383 you were building a few years back. It was a sweet build you were planning.
Damn I had a mildly modified slant that would outrun those tanks
It should run good on Georgia jungle juice.
Man I wished you had that 383 you were building a few years back. It was a sweet build you were planning.
One of our members in north Georgia bought that. I caint remember who now.
Hate to say it, but I'm not far from GA, and I go through VA a lot...
Going to put a 360 in instead?
Even better, a slant six with a fancy head.
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Uncle Tony says his 340 73 Satellite craps and departs...
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
that swap is chock full of sacrifices, I believe you give up power steering, A/C possibly and any cornering for the nose heaviness it brings with it. I was in on a 383 swap in a 69 dart, fender well headers etc. with a friend of mine. it was his car. i don't recall it ending up being any faster than a well oiled and tuned small block. i suppose if you are drag racing in a straight line its worth it, on the street not so comfortable ( the nose heaviness)
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Ok so school me;
the 383 installed without power steering and without A/C
is somehow heavier than a 360 installed with A/C and powersteering?
And we haven't even talked about lightweight components nor moving underhood junk around.
Ok, I get that the 383 long block is a lil heavier than a 360 longblock.
But what is the difference on the scales after installation?
And I get that P/S is a bit of a sacrifice, a tiny bit.
But A/C to me in my streeter is no sacrifice at all. If I need A/C I'll just take the family car.
I mean we're talking a two gear (at most) car that smokes the tires thru both of them, and usually brakes at 60/65mph. What possible difference can a couple of pounds up front make?
In the turns?
Suspension tuning will take care of that.
Now, I'm not advocating for a 383. I just want to understand the nose-heavyness assertion.
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My 68 Barracuda street-car does have both P/S and P/B and has a 367. Plus an A/C rad, a big coolant recovery tank, a 7-qt oilpan, and a honking big 7-blade fan on a honking big HD T-clutch; all of which are about as far forward as is possible. The T-bars are 1.03s and the Swaybar is a big heavy thing.
To be fair; I put the battery in the trunk, the horns are no where to be found, and she runs alloy heads.
The beast is 3650 with me in it, about 1900 of which are on the front corners.
It turns and handles just fine; try and keep up........
Had I wanted a 383 under my hood, I would have put one in there. As it is, she is currently lounging in the back shed, with her factory log exhaust manifolds and K-member.
@AJ/FormS
The extra weight up front can be felt during acceleration. On cornering, you can feel the weight taken on by the big block. The nose feels and acts heavier. The car will lean in heavier in a turn.
on braking, I didn’t feel there was much of a difference in it except initial pedal effort.
Im not sure what the individual components of the engine weigh in at. Or what the weight savings would be in changing to aluminum. What I do know is the overall aluminum out fitting of a B engine can lighten it up to approximately a all iron small block more or less within a few pounds. This is making the B engine attractive.
The small block will always be lighter which of course makes it more nimble for cornering and drag. But simply limited in overall power production and therefore performance in drag racing. Running around twists and turns will simply take serious suspension work no matter the engine. But the B-R/B has penalties limitations.
What ever you can do in moving under hood stuff around will apply to both engines. So it is a wash. It simply boils down to the weight of the short block as the dividing factor which can’t be changed. Or changed much at all. If you want to machine each block externally, the big block still has more iron everywhere. It can only go so far with each engine family.
Having had a ‘71 Duster & a ‘79 Magnum with a 5.9 - 360 & a ‘78 - 400, both stock and both with aluminum intakes and headers only, nether being equipped with A/C or P/S ether, there is a noticeable difference.
The extra weight up front can be felt during acceleration. On cornering, you can feel the weight taken on by the big block. The nose feels and acts heavier. The car will lean in heavier in a turn.
on braking, I didn’t feel there was much of a difference in it except initial pedal effort.
Im not sure what the individual components of the engine weigh in at. Or what the weight savings would be in changing to aluminum. What I do know is the overall aluminum out fitting of a B engine can lighten it up to approximately a all iron small block more or less within a few pounds. This is making the B engine attractive.
The small block will always be lighter which of course makes it more nimble for cornering and drag. But simply limited in overall power production and therefore performance in drag racing. Running around twists and turns will simply take serious suspension work no matter the engine. But the B-R/B has penalties limitations.
What ever you can do in moving under hood stuff around will apply to both engines. So it is a wash. It simply boils down to the weight of the short block as the dividing factor which can’t be changed. Or changed much at all. If you want to machine each block externally, the big block still has more iron everywhere. It can only go so far with each engine family.
OP say's max builds need not apply. The 360 is a turd compared to a stock or mildly built 383 and beyond.
Ask my little brother he was into early Darts and mid 70's Dusters all equipped with 360's he built.
Now he's into the new generation Hemi in a 71 Duster, but then there's the 451. lol
little brother will lose until the end. lol
Ask my little brother he was into early Darts and mid 70's Dusters all equipped with 360's he built.
Now he's into the new generation Hemi in a 71 Duster, but then there's the 451. lol
little brother will lose until the end. lol
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
100% absolute untrue...two different cars, but AT/AC/PS car handled decent. The 4sp/PS car handled excellent...Both 383s
sccachallenger
Well-Known Member
So these days with relatively affordable alum heads for the big block, should these be considered "max build" parts or not? I haven't looked in awhile but I know a pair was around $1100 for a long time.
So should we consider new alloy heads "max build" ?
You're dollars ahead by getting the newer aluminum heads.
If I'm buying a head for a big block, it will be the Trick Flow.
The way I look at it for an 360-383 a-body debate is this way, if I only have cast iron parts that were available on 360 or 383 I'm going to lean big block. The weight penalty isn't that much if we're going iron vs iron but made up by The potential with what was given to us by ma mopar in cylinder heads, bore size & stroke favors 383 b all day. I wasn't alive back then but I've heard many stories from people who were 383 guys or on the wrong end with bigger engines of mopar & all other manufacturers, the 383 was the reason mopar sold so many muscle cars...they beat almost anything in the typical street racing scenarios. The things I would do to a 383 would just be bowl work, plug the heat crossover in the heads, and do some valve relief in the chambers then grind the heat crossover under the intake manifold off & put a bigger carb like a thermoquad & call it done. Since the max build is out of the question. I like 360s, I have a pretty hot fuel injected magnum but it belongs in my r/t dakota.
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