360 build thread

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After doing some more reading i think i confused myself on lsa vs centerline. Based off my cam card and the method im using i believe you are correct and i need to only retard it 2 degrees from the original 102 to get to the 104.
 
Yup! That's what I read. And that's the good thing of this web site...to be helpful.
 
tanis4457 said:
After doing some more reading i think i confused myself on lsa vs centerline. Based off my cam card and the method im using i believe you are correct and i need to only retard it 2 degrees from the original 102 to get to the 104.
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You can go in at 108 if you want, but it will be technically 4* retarded from where Cam Motion wants it. 108 will shift the torque curve up.

As a general rule, Cam Motion usually calls out a 4* advance from LSA. Usually. I had one cam ground on a 109 that went in at 109 but it was a weird combo. 104 will probably be better for what you want.
 
yellow rose said:
You can go in at 108 if you want, but it will be technically 4* retarded from where Cam Motion wants it. 108 will shift the torque curve up.

As a general rule, Cam Motion usually calls out a 4* advance from LSA. Usually. I had one cam ground on a 109 that went in at 109 but it was a weird combo. 104 will probably be better for what you want.
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I think with my gearing I'll get it in per the cam card, that way it will be gel with all my components and the way we picked parts etc...From what I've read though playing with the cam either retarding/advancing seems to change the RPM range from anywhere to 200-500 rpm depending on the amount you advance/retard.
 
Was able to get some time last night to adjust the cam timing, installed it first at retarded 2 degrees per my measurements a couple days ago ended up at 106/107, went straight up dot to dot and got 104/105 I must have been off with the cam sprocket initially. For a test i moved the cam sprocket around in relation to the crank sprocket and started getting 120/122 and it wasnt even moved by that much. If your not careful and dont look for your cam/crank marks to be perfectly in line while maintaing TDC the cam timing can get off pretty quick, parallax can also be a real *****.
 
Been a while but now it's time for an update. When I went to put in the pistons and rings I had purchased the proform tapered compressor what a piece of junk, machining wasnt very good thought I was going to break a ring. Sent it back for the arp one, much better. While waiting I figured I'd start painting. Me and a buddy built an impromptu paint booth. Thought about doing a traditional color but opted to do something different. Painted the block, cover and water pump duplicolor ceramic mopar purple. 2 coats of the primer and 2 coats of paint some 2000 grit in between coats and baking in the paint booth around 70f for 24 hours each coat.

Just got the pistons in, ended up having one piston that had a small dent by the top compression ring groove, kept the ring from seating in a little 1200 grit took care of that. Don't know if that was me, when it was shipped or the machine shop, so dont forget to look over your parts upon receipt. Checked all the rod to rod clearance, measured between .014-.017. Time for the oil pan next. Added a pic of my car figure the purple and green will mix well, going to do the top end flat black.
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Got the oil slinger, timing cover and balancer on. Crank bolt torqued down. Used a piece of 1 foot 3/4-16 all thread, nuts and washer from crank bolt to make a balancer installer. Also sprayed my valve covers with the eastwood engine flat black, gonna do another coat to fill things in a little more.
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Next time just use a dead blow and tap around the inner/center hub in a circle till it's 1/3 the way on and 100% aligned then give just put the bolt in and tighten it.
 
So ive been trying to figure out the best way to mount this kevko pickup. I only have a limited amount of thread above the tab, i tried finding a thin jam nut but couldnt at the local hardware store so my next thought was a castle nut with some wire wrapped through but i didn't like how that was turning out. I don't really want to removing the nut and washer on the main stud but I'm open to suggestions heres a couple pics for reference. So far im right in the .25 to .375 for pickup to pan clearance. Also thought of running no nut, not sure how much that pickup is going to move.

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tanis4457 said:
So ive been trying to figure out the best way to mount this kevko pickup. I only have a limited amount of thread above the tab, i tried finding a thin jam nut but couldnt at the local hardware store so my next thought was a castle nut with some wire wrapped through but i didn't like how that was turning out. I don't really want to removing the nut and washer on the main stud but I'm open to suggestions heres a couple pics for reference. So far im right in the .25 to .375 for pickup to pan clearance. Also thought of running no nut, not sure how much that pickup is going to move.

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I would not run it without the pickup tube being supported. Maybe figuring out a way to safety wire the hold down nut would be a good option.
 
The P/U tube tab being mounted on top of an ARP 12 point nut may not provide a good sturdy base! Whose brand of P/U tube is that?
 
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