360 hydraulic lifter valve lash

-
Ok i was under the impression that you are not suppose to do that. Because the lifters will pump up on there own when you brake the cam in. And they will set themselves. I had a friend do this and i think his valves hung open. Im sorry if im wrong. But i think you should have not done that. The other motor i would say your lucky. If someone else sees this, tell me im wrong nicely please.

Ps im in the same boat with my 340 with the 508 comp hyd. with adjustables. one of the lifter is clasped a little.

Curtis
 
You're correct. You do not soak new lifters any more.
Cal - don;t give up hope and keep posting questions. If someone doesn't want to read it or be constructive they can ignore the thread. That's what I do from time to time.
 
momoparnut said:
Ok i was under the impression that you are not suppose to do that. Because the lifters will pump up on there own when you brake the cam in. And they will set themselves. I had a friend do this and i think his valves hung open. Im sorry if im wrong. But i think you should have not done that. The other motor i would say your lucky. If someone else sees this, tell me im wrong nicely please.

Ps im in the same boat with my 340 with the 508 comp hyd. with adjustables. one of the lifter is clasped a little.

Curtis
Click to expand...

Nut, i used to pump oil in the bleed holes during assy. and had several occasions when the valves hung open during start up. Acted like a solid with preload. So i stopped doing it. Did soak a few after that but not for a long time.
 
momoparnut said:
Ok i was under the impression that you are not suppose to do that. Because the lifters will pump up on there own when you brake the cam in. And they will set themselves. I had a friend do this and i think his valves hung open. Im sorry if im wrong. But i think you should have not done that. The other motor i would say your lucky. If someone else sees this, tell me im wrong nicely please.

Ps im in the same boat with my 340 with the 508 comp hyd. with adjustables. one of the lifter is clasped a little.

Curtis
Click to expand...

i am completely open to ALL suggestions. i have done this with every lifter i have ever installed. and now, maybe its time i tried it differently

moper said:
You're correct. You do not soak new lifters any more.
Cal - don;t give up hope and keep posting questions. If someone doesn't want to read it or be constructive they can ignore the thread. That's what I do from time to time.
Click to expand...

the next set i am about to buy, i will put them in dry. should i use assembly lube on the face?

OldmanRick said:
Nut, i used to pump oil in the bleed holes during assy. and had several occasions when the valves hung open during start up. Acted like a solid with preload. So i stopped doing it. Did soak a few after that but not for a long time.
Click to expand...

Rick, are you not soaking them either?
 
Last few i just oiled the bores and wiped the bodies, Did use a liberal amount of cam lube on the face though and prelubed while rotating. Didn't have any problems.
Since your doing lifters only, the lifter face will probably be the most important.
 
The push rod should push down on the lifter .05 to .06. On my 340 we put in together and leave the oil pump shaft out. We would crank the motor over and put a drill on a oil prime shaft and run it up to pressure and rotate the motor over. You can use the starter to crank over. Would do this right before start up. So you wont have to listen to the lifters making noise. Dont beat your self up. We all learn something new everyday. At least you are trying. that what counts. Good luck on your next try. Dont give up. Walk away for awhile when you mad. Clear your head then go back.

Curtis
 
yea, ive been doing this for 25+ years, though the majority has been spent building big blocks. in all my years i have never had this much BS with any friggin hydraulic lifters. they really dont make them like they use to. i have seen original 120,000 mile 318s with their original lifters still providing service and i cant get a set of summit lifters to last 50 miles. that is really pathetic. i have installed countless lifters and never had one go until now
 
73AbodEE said:
yea, ive been doing this for 25+ years, though the majority has been spent building big blocks. in all my years i have never had this much BS with any friggin hydraulic lifters. they really dont make them like they use to. i have seen original 120,000 mile 318s with their original lifters still providing service and i cant get a set of summit lifters to last 50 miles. that is really pathetic. i have installed countless lifters and never had one go until now
Click to expand...

I understand your frustration. Not like you changed the whole combination, basically just a R&R. Get some rest, gonna be able to enjoy it soon:thumleft:
 
67Dart273 said:
??? SINCE WHEN ??? He is talking about a 77 LA block and heads, NOT a magnum and NOT a roller.

So far as I know, ALL SB LA repeat LA pushrods with factory not adjustable valve gear are the same length.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/make/CHRYSLER/engine-size/5-9L-360/engine-family/Mopar-small-block-LA/Brand/Sealed-Power/Part-Type/Pushrods-Assembled/?Ns=Rank|Asc


I've had the very same 273 factory stock adjustable pushrods on ever LA small block there is. 1 They came off a 273. 2 Ran them on the 340. 3 Ran them with the 318, and now, 4 on the LA 360 in the 67
Click to expand...

Is that a "tone" I detect?

Yes, there are different pushrod lengths........... sigh. I am sorry you haven't ran into it yet. Now go do some research.
 
Anyway, thinking way back, our local warehouse used to carry Wolverine blue racer cams...... (Crane warehouse brand)

I remember the "320" duration cam having a smaller base circle, and needing .060 longer pushrods.........

I never understood why.
 
dodgetkboy78 said:
Is that a "tone" I detect?

Yes, there are different pushrod lengths........... sigh. I am sorry you haven't ran into it yet. Now go do some research.
Click to expand...

I had a WHOLE bunch of **** typed out, and decided to go a different route

YOU are the one claiming that some factory pushrods are "different" so YOU post the "research."
 
OK, asshat, you asked.


68-69 273, 67-77 318 7.500

78-86 318 7.515 (.015 LOOOOONGER)

68-73 340 7.534 (.034 LOOOOOOONGERRRRRR)

71-77 360 7.534

78+ 360's Both used .534 and .515 pushrods, .515's were in the (hi po) 360's.


Easy to find the info, if you know where to look. Glad you didn't type out all that "****", you would've looked even dumber.
 
Dang, Im not reading all these posts to tell you the small block and the big block replacement lifters are the same. The old B/RB lifters only had a smaller radius in the pushrod socket for a smaller tip on the pushrod, and the 2 part numbers you may be seeing for the SB may be solid and hydro or hydro and OEM roller or stock and anti-pump. Now for cams...the only way you can get more lift out of a Mopar cam is to lower the floor, ie. smaller base circle and that means more lash on stock stamped rockers. Look how close the nose of the lobe is to the bearing on a cam, lay a straight edge across it...Why anyone with a performance cam doesnt run an adjustable rocker is a good question. Save your custom pushrods, just get some 273 ductile irons and get yourself a proper preload. Not bashing, but I have seen this question before.

Oh yeah, EZ way to pump up lifters is to rotate crank 4 times with your buddy manning the drill in the oil pump primer. 2 times to fill them all, 2 more times to make sure...
 
dodgetkboy78 said:
OK, asshat, you asked.


68-69 273, 67-77 318 7.500

78-86 318 7.515 (.015 LOOOOONGER)

68-73 340 7.534 (.034 LOOOOOOONGERRRRRR)

71-77 360 7.534

78+ 360's Both used .534 and .515 pushrods, .515's were in the (hi po) 360's.


Easy to find the info, if you know where to look. Glad you didn't type out all that "****", you would've looked even dumber.
Click to expand...

I'm sure you are correct in your info. But wouldn't the variance in production deck heights, and preload, make the difference almost a moot point?
 
Unless you have 318 pushrods in a 360 that has a thick head gasket, and valves high in the seat......

.035 doesn't SOUND like much, until those poor factory tolerences are bass ackwards. Nobody would notice .035 the nother direction.

Neverless, I have put factory 318 pushrods in a 360 and it flat wouldn't work, the longer pushrod made up the difference.
 
with all due respect ,honestly, i never really considered a 284/480 much of a performance cam. it would work well with 2200 stall converter and a 323 gear. which is what i have .it is just over a stock replacement cam. but at any rate , i believe that i will be getting some adjustable gear
 
This whole topic is kinda depressing. 35 years ago you could run down to the dealer and pick up a DC or now known as MP cam and replacement lifters and install it in a never opened production line engine in a few hours and that thing would run like stink (and i don't mean sh*t). Is our manufacturing that bad now? Makes me question even getting back into this hobby.......Sorry about the rant.
 
OldmanRick said:
This whole topic is kinda depressing. 35 years ago you could run down to the dealer and pick up a DC or now known as MP cam and replacement lifters and install it in a never opened production line engine in a few hours and that thing would run like stink (and i don't mean sh*t). Is our manufacturing that bad now? Makes me question even getting back into this hobby.......Sorry about the rant.
Click to expand...

Rick , this is exactly why i got so upset. i have never had this much trouble uncracking an original motor, stuffing a mild cam in it , throwing on some headers , a carb, and a converter in it and getting just a tad more out of the engine with no hassles whatsoever. but im sure as hell not going to let something so minor keep me from doing what i love or deter me from enjoying my hobby. i just have to adjust to times i guess lol
 
73AbodEE said:
Rick , this is exactly why i got so upset. i have never had this much trouble uncracking an original motor, stuffing a mild cam in it , throwing on some headers , a carb, and a converter in it and getting just a tad more out of the engine with no hassles whatsoever. but im sure as hell not going to let something so minor keep me from doing what i love or deter me from enjoying my hobby. i just have to adjust to times i guess lol
Click to expand...

I agree Lance, guess this pushrod crap just finally got the best of me:)

Let us know when you get your springs and lifters in. Hopefully problem solved and we can move on to more fun stuff like makin' more power....hehe.
 
OldmanRick said:
I agree Lance, guess this pushrod crap just finally got the best of me:)

Let us know when you get your springs and lifters in. Hopefully problem solved and we can move on to more fun stuff like makin' more power....hehe.
Click to expand...

i am putting my new lifters in tomarrow and i am going to button her back up, fire it up , let it run and see what happens. if the rockers are still loose, then its off to getting a new set of springs and adjustable gear. so we shall see . i ready to get this thing out of the garage and park the duster for the summer! :burnout:
 
73AbodEE said:
Rick , this is exactly why i got so upset. i have never had this much trouble uncracking an original motor, stuffing a mild cam in it , throwing on some headers , a carb, and a converter in it and getting just a tad more out of the engine with no hassles whatsoever. but im sure as hell not going to let something so minor keep me from doing what i love or deter me from enjoying my hobby. i just have to adjust to times i guess lol
Click to expand...

Once in awhile you can find some nos stuff on ebay. A few weeks back somebody had 30 year old nos dc lifters, they sold for $62 plus shipping.

Today you either buy top of the line or look for old nos stuff, jmo
 
I got some circa 1973 SB solids still in the 2 boxes. The instructions spec for oil type said, "as of 1973, the oil marked..." Though that was a good indicator on how old the lifters were, or at least the printed instructions...
I just measured the base of a tired 318 cam and an MP purple cam (unknown spec but I believe its a 340 resto cam)and the base circle was .072 smaller on the larger camshaft. So without a pushrod or rocker change, thats larger than the .060 preload recommended for hydro rockers...enter adjustable rockers. Case solved...
 
pishta said:
I got some circa 1973 SB solids still in the 2 boxes. The instructions spec for oil type said, "as of 1973, the oil marked..." Though that was a good indicator on how old the lifters were, or at least the printed instructions...
I just measured the base of a tired 318 cam and an MP purple cam (unknown spec but I believe its a 340 resto cam)and the base circle was .072 smaller on the larger camshaft. So without a pushrod or rocker change, thats larger than the .060 preload recommended for hydro rockers...enter adjustable rockers. Case solved...
Click to expand...

thanks Pishta. will a set of 273 adjustable rocker gear work on a 77 360 with my 7.5 pushrods and lifters? or would i need to get aftermarket adjustable parts?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top