360 partially rounded head bolt help

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beebeeri000

beebeeri000

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one of the head bolts on my 360 is partally rounded. its too small for the 3/4 to get a good grip, too big for 11/16, and the 12 point 3/4 socket just spins on it. it almost seems like its at 18mm not but none of my metric sets have that size. can anyone else help me? all my other head bolts came out fine with the breaker bar
 
If all else fails drill the bolt head off and remove the rest with a pipe wrench or stud remover after the cylinder head is off.
 
Use a six sided socket on all "stuck" nuts and bolts!!!

If even the six sided one won't get it, then weld a large nut onto the bolt head thru the hole in the nut and then use the correct six sided socket to get that.
 
You could go buy one 18mm 6 point impact socket and drive it on, just to get it off.
 
You should be able to get a metric socket the correct size so that you have to tap it on there with a small hammer. Use the metric socket as your "in between size" , I've done it many times. When and SAE socket is too loose because a bolt head is worn out I get a metric socket that will just tap on there a little tight without busting the socket. It works every time unless the bolt is completely rounded off.

Treblig
 
68gtxman said:
Use a six sided socket on all "stuck" nuts and bolts!!!

If even the six sided one won't get it, then weld a large nut onto the bolt head thru the hole in the nut and then use the correct six sided socket to get that.
Click to expand...

ok i though 12 points were better because the put more pressure on the sides of the bolt. and i dont have welding equipment so i cant weld on it.
 
Baxter61 said:
kinda figured that. try getting at least a craftsman on there, it may catch and save you a headache.
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yea im looking at em its just one of those things like when i get some money something on my runing engine brakes or needs to be replaced lol
 
mopar mitch and treblig i kinda tried that with the 11/16 socket but it just came off so im thinking ablit heating it up til its a little plyable the tapping it on and letting it cool down
 
Always use a 6 if you can. 12 point still only grabs 6 nut points and at an area about half of what a 6 point grabs at They sell those gouging sockets that literally screw onto the head with a left hand threading. The tighter the bolt, the harder the thing bites. Might bust the head off but then you can pull head over stub and hit it with a torch to break seize. Better question is why is it seized? They dont bottom out if its the correct bolt/head.
 
68gtxman said:
Use a six sided socket on all "stuck" nuts and bolts!!!

If even the six sided one won't get it, then weld a large nut onto the bolt head thru the hole in the nut and then use the correct six sided socket to get that.
Click to expand...

This is the correct way to do this job ^^^^^

I will add that if you do weld a bolt to it, you want to go after getting it out as soon as you lay your welding hood down. The heat from the welding will help loosen the threads.
 
also tap that stuck bolt repeatedly with a hammer-- better to use 2 ball pein hammers-- place one on top of the bolt-- then hit the other side of it-- that way you do not round off the bolt anymore. Lawrence
 
The gunk only burns for a little bit, besides if it looks like it's getting out of hand a bunched up wet rag will put it out, if you have one handy...
 
As a former jet engine mechanic, I can tell you that a 12 point socket is only for those fasteners that are in hard to reach spots where you need every 16th of an inch to make the turns.

You should always opt for a six point where torque is involved, even if you have to use an extension. That will save you a ton of time, money, and frustration, on problems like this.

As far as your current situation: Find the closest size that ALMOST fits. Then use (or BUY and use) an impact socket of that size and hammer it on, like someone else said. Then slow, steady, EVEN pressure until the bolt breaks free.

Do not use a regular chrome socket, those are "glass hard" and can just crack or shatter.
 
VDART said:
also tap that stuck bolt repeatedly with a hammer-- better to use 2 ball pein hammers-- place one on top of the bolt-- then hit the other side of it-- that way you do not round off the bolt anymore. Lawrence
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That's a hell of an idea! Even a moron like me can learn a new trick every now and again. Thanks!
 
Craftsman makes a set of bolt extractors that will bite down hard on a rounded bolt head. It will be junk when it comes out, but hey..........it's junk now, just stuck in there.
 
Go buy a good 6 point socket.
Throw the china freight tool kit in the trash.
Buy good tools.
I once took the last few head bolts out on a small block when I broke my socket while taking the heads off in a junkyard, using a tire iron.
 
A lot of good answers. I just had a couple things to add. Since you have no welding equipment, you could use a $20 propane torch and it will help sometimes. Worse case scenario, get a $30 Dremel from Walmart and some cutoff wheels for it and grind the head off.Our local pawnshops have sockets by the pound and it is a cheap way to get a one time throwaway socket. I'd grab a cheap extension too and beat the hell out of it instead of the socket to drive one on. Or borrow a neighbors.
 
MOPARMITCH said:
You could go buy one 18mm 6 point impact socket and drive it on, just to get it off.
Click to expand...
^^x3, and the 'driving it on' phase of operations will help loosen the bolt. Don't bother with heat in thsi particular case, IMO: the likely place where the bolt is stuck is down in the threads, and you'll never get much heat down there, which is below the head and in the block.
 
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