387” W2 Stroker, What should I upgrade next?

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Lxiflyby

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Here’s the setup:
72 Duster
727-3600 stall 9.5 converter
3.90 gear/27” drag radials

387” W2 headed 360 based stroker
Closed chamber w2 race heads
JE forged pistons
Not sure on C/R but I believe it’s considerably over 10:1
750HP Quick fuel double pumper on 1” open spacer
Dual plane weiand intake (rare)
Small ish solid cam (most likely under 230 degrees at .050 and roughly 500 lift)
Small 1 5/8 LA headers adapted to fit the W2’s, 2.5” duals
35* total timing

Car runs good; feels like a mid-high 12s car but should have a lot more left in it, so what should I upgrade next? I was thinking single plane intake mani, bigger solid cam in the 250-260 degeee duration at .050 lift and 575-600 lift and 1 7/8” tti headers to really wake it up.
I suspect those changes alone will be worth 40-60hp… What’s your suggestions?

IMG_2657.png
 
A lot. 12’s are…. Sorry, but…. Slow for W2’s. What do you want out of this?
 
Yeah that’s what I figured- I’m slightly underwhelmed. Looking for mid low 11s but in any event, I feel it should be considerably faster than it is
 
My 360 with W2’s had a Hughes solid cam, 264/268 @ .050. 1-5/8” LA headers. Ran 10.20 @ 130
 
Might sound stupid, but many have been caught out.....Have you checked that the carb is getting full throttle?
 
You said It feels like a 12 second car, so I guess your not racing it, this is just for street fun?
It seem like your heading in the right direction for more top end power, but probably at the sacrifice of lower rpm power at reasonable street speeds. Have you tuned it to get the most of what you already have available before looking for more?
 
An 11sec car often will feel like a 12sec with an automatic, and likewise an 11sec stick car will feel like it might run 10s. The violence of a stick shift always seems to make the car feel faster than it is.
 
Lxiflyby said:
Yeah that’s what I figured- I’m slightly underwhelmed. Looking for mid low 11s but in any event, I feel it should be considerably faster than it is
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Cam - Solid in the mid 250@050
Single plane, the strip dominator from Holley or MP-M1 will do very well. Certainly the header should increase to 1-7/8. I would also run the exhaust tubes the same size as the collector
Increase the gear ratio. 4.30-4.56 on 28” diameter tires
 
Yes I might go 4.10s with the 27”drag radial,
I haven’t raced this car yet but I probably will in the next season (HOT street/street strip is my intent)

The car runs decent with the carb that’s on it- 12.5 to 13.2 afr at wot and cruises around 13-15 afr, I might be able to go 1 jet richer just to be safe but it seems to run pretty snappy as is as far as the tune and doesn’t break up or bog when its up to temp, it does get full throttle etc. Punch the throttle and it goes. the distributor has an advance limiter plate and light springs in it, so it has full advance pretty much just off idle, 35* total timing, Hirev 7500 ignition box and matching pertronix coil etc.

I’m looking at this Lunati voodoo solid cam since I’ve had good results on other engines:

Voodoo Solid Flat Tappet Cam - Chrysler 273-360 288/296

050 (Int/Exh): 259/267
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .586/.606 LSA/ICL: 110/106 ;Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .016/.016 ;RPM Range: 3000-7200
 
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Lxiflyby said:
Here’s the setup:
72 Duster
727-3600 stall 9.5 converter
3.90 gear/27” drag radials

387” W2 headed 360 based stroker
Closed chamber w2 race heads
JE forged pistons
Not sure on C/R but I believe it’s considerably over 10:1
750HP Quick fuel double pumper on 1” open spacer
Dual plane weiand intake (rare)
Small ish solid cam (most likely under 230 degrees at .050 and roughly 500 lift)
Small 1 5/8 LA headers adapted to fit the W2’s, 2.5” duals
35* total timing

Car runs good; feels like a mid-high 12s car but should have a lot more left in it, so what should I upgrade next? I was thinking single plane intake mani, bigger solid cam in the 250-260 degeee duration at .050 lift and 575-600 lift and 1 7/8” tti headers to really wake it up.
I suspect those changes alone will be worth 40-60hp… What’s your suggestions?

View attachment 1716153880
Click to expand...

I would do a compression test to try and figure the compression before I ordered a cam, but I can tell you if the heads are not ported, it'll be slow. Also headers are too small for W2 engine, and the dual plane...big time power loss! I would install low gear set in the trans before changing gears in the rear end.
 
Lxiflyby said:
Yes I might go 4.10s with the 27”drag radial,
I haven’t raced this car yet but I probably will in the next season (HOT street/street strip is my intent)

The car runs decent with the carb that’s on it- 12.5 to 13.2 afr at wot and cruises around 13-15 afr, I might be able to go 1 jet richer just to be safe but it seems to run pretty snappy as is as far as the tune and doesn’t break up or bog when its up to temp, it does get full throttle etc. Punch the throttle and it goes. the distributor has an advance limiter plate and light springs in it, so it has full advance pretty much just off idle, 35* total timing, Hirev 7500 ignition box and matching pertronix coil etc.

I’m looking at this Lunati voodoo solid cam since I’ve had good results on other engines:

Voodoo Solid Flat Tappet Cam - Chrysler 273-360 288/296

050 (Int/Exh): 259/267
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .586/.606 LSA/ICL: 110/106 ;Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .016/.016 ;RPM Range: 3000-7200
Click to expand...

3.90’s to 4.10’s is not worth the effort and not much of a gain. Hence my recommendation of 4.30’s or 4.56’s and the tire should be a 28”.

Brian Hafliger’s low trans first gear set swap is not a normally seen route, I do have to say I like it a lot. Since the ratio of the first gear will also act like you changed the rear gear out of the hole, where it really counts most.
 
rumblefish360 said:
3.90’s to 4.10’s is not worth the effort and not much of a gain. Hence my recommendation of 4.30’s or 4.56’s and the tire should be a 28”.

Brian Hafliger’s low trans first gear set swap is not a normally seen route, I do have to say I like it a lot. Since the ratio of the first gear will also act like you changed the rear gear out of the hole, where it really counts most.
Click to expand...
I agree, it's money and time wasted. I switched to 4.30's from 3.91's and only picked up a few thousands in the 60' that it carried through.
 
Sounds like the low gear set would be better than going to a steeper rear gear than what I have… I’ll have to see how close my compression is in order to run that Voodoo cam, but I do think a decent single plane intake should pick up power regardless. I may have to have the converter re stalled as well depending on how it all plays out
 
Not sure on the valve size other than it looks like the long valve setup, I can tell they have been cleaned up port wise. I do believe they are 58cc 693 version race W2s. The intake manifold is a weiand dual plane w5 intake that somebody epoxied to fit the w2’s
 
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