4 speed ka-booom !

-
replicaracer43 said:
Hey, another thing you can do is talk to Jamie at passon transmission, they offer a "slick shift" kit, which would be a improvement over the factory synchos, but still streetable. They also sell all the small parts, including "selective" washers for your endplay. I think you can replace those brass shift forks with steel ones, much stronger........
Click to expand...
Called and got the answering machine... I'm still on the fence about the steel shift forks.
 
Well they called back Jamie I think and if I send the gears in second third and fourth it will only be about $900 so there goes that idea. I think I'll be more than tapped out by the time I just put some good replacement parts in the tranny, put the roll cage I wanted to this winter, and oh yeah the Dana 60.
 
j par said:
Well they called back Jamie I think and if I send the gears in second third and fourth it will only be about $900 so there goes that idea. I think I'll be more than tapped out by the time I just put some good replacement parts in the tranny, put the roll cage I wanted to this winter, and oh yeah the Dana 60.
Click to expand...

That's odd, that sounds like the price to "pro shift" one, his 2010 catalog list a "slick shift" kit, at $275.00 Dunno
 
As to the brass forks? I've run them from 1970 to 1985, and again from1999 to 2005. So that's a total of 21 years or so( no drag racing to speak of), and during those,mostly city miles, I've never broken one. I bought a Passon side cover in about 2005. I think that's a steel fork cover, so since then I've been running the steels. The steels have a nicer interlock and a more powerful in-gear detent.Plus they are easy to braze up, if you are lazy in repairing a deceleration jump-out condition.
I think I would switch if I was gonna track it a lot, just for the insurance. I have no idea what kind of damage a broken brass fork can do, and I wouldn't want to find out. Plus if you drove it to the track, getting home will be a b.....ch!

I bought a v-gate and have been looking for someone who has the bracket so I can get a copy on a piece of paper.
have you been holding out on me?
I didn't see you were looking. But it wouldn't mater cuz I built my own, on account of I moved my shifter waaay back to between the buckets. I have a GearVender unit which mounts on the non-A-body rear extension, so I took advantage of the rear shifter mount.I also raised it up pretty high. I'm running a short-stick shifter.Some guys laugh at where my shifter is, until they try to find the shift gaps in the long,fat,black,street blackies ! Heehee.
What they don't know is that the little red button that is recessed into the shift ball, controls the GV, which I use as a splitter. The car goes 93 in the 1/8. The tranny has a 3.09 low/1.92 second. The splitter gives me 2 ratios; 2.41 and 1.50. If I run 3.91s, It'll trap at 6600ish in 2nd over. That's exactly one stick shift and 2 electric splits. With rpm drops about 78%, the powerband only needs to be about 1400 or so. And since the engine is sitting at max power for most of those Rs, it doesn't take much of a cam. It's kinda like a 2-stroke Snowmobile clutch. A 232* fast rate gets it done.I ran 4 passes that one and only time.Only one pass was sorta good. On two passes the shifter hung up. On another pass the tack stuck on 7200 or so all the way.The starter guy came over on the last pass and suggested I lower the pressures in the DRs, cuz it was boiling the hides the whole way.Sheesh, guess that explains the tack stuck on 7200! For the last and only successful pass, I drove it like a granny. Babied it off the line, hung back, hit the splitter and nailed it.The ET sucked But the MPH told me what I wanted to know.
 
^^^^ I'll probably just end up fabricating something from scratch for the shifter. But I do like putting it up where it's comfortable, I don't blame you for that....
 
Sooo, I got the cast parts back from the machine shop and the two main bearings pressed off.
Well, I pull first gear off and I'm playing with the slide action and - Ooop's, the slider pop's off and those three little keys go a flyin #-o
 
I have a v-gate if your still looking for paper pattern of the mounting bracket.

Send me a PM with your address, and I will drop it in the mail.
 
replicaracer43 said:
That's odd, that sounds like the price to "pro shift" one, his 2010 catalog list a "slick shift" kit, at $275.00 Dunno
Click to expand...
Yes, with some more research thats what he must have been talking about - "pro shift".
So, the "slick shift" ? My first question is strength??
 
That # ,I think is a part of the VIN that the tranny came out of.
The 9 would indicate year 1969, and the B would be Hamtrack. The rest would be the sequence number that would be a part of the serial number, that would also be found on the engine, the tranny, and several places on the body.
But you see that 3-digit number off to the right side? That could be the CDE number which can be decoded to tell us the year,body and engine , that the tranny was originally in. I read yours as 008, which does not decode to anything. For a late 69 date, A-body,SBM, that should be 602.
AS to this;
" I was more pm'ing you about the slick shift ? I get the faster shifts, but strength? 2 out of 3 teeth gone!"
I don't understand. What did I miss? Come back...
 
AJ/FormS said:
That # ,I think is a part of the VIN that the tranny came out of.
The 9 would indicate year 1969, and the B would be Hamtrack. The rest would be the sequence number that would be a part of the serial number, that would also be found on the engine, the tranny, and several places on the body.
But you see that 3-digit number off to the right side? That could be the CDE number which can be decoded to tell us the year,body and engine , that the tranny was originally in. I read yours as 008, which does not decode to anything. For a late 69 date, A-body,SBM, that should be 602.
AS to this;
" I was more pm'ing you about the slick shift ? I get the faster shifts, but strength? 2 out of 3 teeth gone!"
I don't understand. What did I miss? Come back...
Click to expand...

That's 003 , according to Brewer's performance that number being behind the date number meant it was the third one that made that day?
Racer43 was suggesting the slick shift from passion performance. I've been taking this under consideration at the cost of $275. It seemed to shift just fine before, and as you know I'm putting the v-gate on for this next year. My question is strength when you're taking out every other tooth?
And thank you again for answering all my crazy question, but also I hope this is helping other people too....
 
Oh! I get it. Well then strength is a non-issue, at least for guys like us. I cut out every second tooth( from 2nd and 3rd,only) over a decade ago, and it works great. That's every second tooth of the slider and every second tooth of the clutch teeth. I left the brass rings in. In the sliders, I only cut them back far enough to get them out of the way of the clutch teeth.By leaving the hub splines alone, you don't get the backlash when moving from on the throttle to off.By leaving the brass in, it shifts like a normal tranny, when you drive it normal. But when you're banging it, I can easily overpower the brass, and because of the extra room created by the mod, there is no grinding involved. And best of all I got to keep my short-stick H-pattern shifter, so it's fully streetable. Now, I know some guys are using the V-Gate on the street, but for me, who used to put on 12,000 miles a year on my S, downshifting was a super PITA. So hallelujah, I got the best of both worlds.
Oh yeah, while I was in there, I cut 3 shallow grooves across the faces of each cone(all 4 of them), about 120* apart; about 3/16" wide,and about .040 to .050 deep. This, to provide a place for the oil to escape, during the braking action. I did all the mods at once, so I can't say with conviction that it made a difference, But I believe it musta, cuz no 833 I've ever shifted works like mine. LIGHTNING. And forget straight EP oils. I use 50/50, ATF and EP 80/90. If I had a track only car I'd run straight ATF. But for street, I thought it prudent to put some EP oil in there to protect the countershaft and it's needles.
BTW this mod will let the tranny shift at well over 7000 rpm with no hang-ups, and did I mention? like lightning.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oh wait. Did you say that Brewers is taking out 2 out of every 3 teeth? And a matching number off the clutch teeth? Is that right? I think that would create excessive backlash on the street. It should work fine in a track car. Perhaps even better than taking every other tooth.
-------------------------------------
I'll throw something else at you. Your shift rpm is determined by your horsepower curve, which in large part is governed by the camshaft, and by the % rpm drops during the shifts. What that means is; theres no point in reving it to the moon, before shifting.If the mph shows that shifting at 6000 is adequate, then shifting at any other rpm is just extra wear and tear.
The above mod works no matter what, but the stock system works really well to 5000rpm,and pretty well to 6000. Somewhere, after that, there's room for improvement. But you gotta ask yourself if the money and time is worth it, for almost no gain in mph, and very little in ET.What you will get for your coin is consistency. With 1/2 shift rods and properly adjusted links, miss-shifts wil be a thing of the past, even with an H-pattern shifter. My tranny has not hung up in probably 10 years or more.
I would think the money would be better spent elsewhere. Like getting off the line. Theres way more ET to be gained there, by getting out hard,consistently.
If you've caught some of my other posts, you may have heard me mention that I often shift my S at 7000 or more. It's not that I need to, cuz I have a small 232*cam and tight % rpm drops. No,it's because the engine goes there without significant power loss and it sounds crazy out the tps, and it makes me feel like an idiot schoolboy, hearing all that "giddy-up"!
 
^^^^ the cam wants it to go to seven grand easily but it really runs out of torque about 5800 or so. I'm putting the 2.02 valves and hopefully have my springs tested to see if I can go to 1.6 rockers. I'm not sure if that will change my shift point ?
 
If you do not have a dyno sheet, you will have to zero in on the shift points the old fashioned way, by running shift loops. The points that make the highest mph are the winners. Alternatively you can install one of those accelerometers on the windshield and generate your own dyno sheet. Then knowing your tranny ratios you can graph the ratios against the hp curve and derive the probable shift points. Then you get to prove it with the trap mph again. But it will get you really close right out of the gate and save your engine all those loops. A little short shifting with a small cam is usually better than staying in gear a lil too long, with the possible exception of actually running through the traps.Here you could be a few hundred rpm over the peak, cuz small-cam engines don't usually have a well-defined hp peak. For that you would need a tight LDA, and to really take advantage of the tight LDA, it would also want a transmission with tight rpm drops, like a 5 speed. The 292/509(.543 with 1.6 arms) cam I had was like that. It was a 108LDA cam, and the hp peak was quite pronounced. A stock 340 cam is a 114LDA, and is very mellow. The 110LDA cam I now have, is mellow enough, but it's only a 232*@050 cam. With 1.6 rockers, it does, however, have a published lift of .549. I can shift it almost anywhere and find plenty enough torque for street fun.
 
I asked Jamie about the Slick Shift for a street car, he said they shift like **** on the street.
 
Well a 100% true, slick shift, with no brass rings in it, and fully removed splines, certainly would be a PITA.They make semi-tractor trannys like that.
Which is why I mod mine the way I do, and leave the brass in. It works great for my little 367 cuber. I have to wonder why Chrysler didn't build them that way.With these mods it's as good a shifting 4-spd as any other out there. And IMO, better than the best of "back-in-the-day trannys.
Some of you might remember the Ford top-loader 4spds. Those were a pretty sweet shifting tranny. Well, from how I remember them,they got nuthin on an 833 modded the way I mod mine.
 
AJ -- I think I'm going to just put it back with a few new parts and the v gate. And do as you said and put the money in making the car hook.
 
Might be a good idea to just see if I can put this thing back together and work?!? :tard:
 
OUCH.......you know those caps on a 8 3/4 are the weakest part.....and you already twisted the axle splines too.....Please save up for the dana!!!!!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top