400 stroker or 440

400 stroker or 440

  • Build a 451

    Votes: 51 28.7%

  • Sell my 440 stuff and build a 451

    Votes: 37 20.8%

  • Keep 440 and build that

    Votes: 90 50.6%
  • Total voters
    178
  • Poll closed .
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I went through this to.I went with the 440. The webing on the outside of the block means nothing.the extra webing inside means nothing for a street engine.Call to 440 source and they will tell you everything about the blocks.Hear is the site for everything you want to know about B and RB blocks http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm .Plus what I did when I started to building my engine was I went to my local tracks and asked whe racers what they wrer using and why.I found alot of myths out there. Mark
 
A couple of things I ran into with a 440 was the valve cover interfering with the blower motor, my car is a factory A/C car. The stock valve covers will fit, but you have to unbolt the blower motor to get them on or off. Aftermarket valve covers will have to be modified to fit. This shouldn't be an issue with a 400.
My exhaust (Shumacher) is VERY close to my P.S. gearbox. I do have Edelbrock heads which stick out further than stock. I think there might be more clearance with a low deck.
 
I would also caution you that piecing together a stroker package is probably not cost effective. My son will likely build a stroker for his Barracuda. He's run a 383 for years and he's already got a 440 crank (assume for now that it isn't cracked). I already checked into the cost to turn it down to fit the "B" block and get it balanced. Likely cost in the $4-500 range. I can get a kit from 440 Source with new crank, H-beam rods, pistons, rings and bearings for about $1,900. Pretty much a push if you ask me.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Yeah but being biased doesnt really stray from the facts lol. I know this all depends on how each motor is built but assume there both built the same way outside of bore and stroke is there a signifigant advantage?
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Well...ALL 400 blocks are not stronger. Just certain year models and I don't know which ones. NONE of them however are weak. The rod to stroke ratio is a big reason they are such good engines. Also they end up with a much lighter reciprocating assembly. Makes for more poawer and quicker revs. They are a good combination all the way around. That being said, in your case, I would stick with the 440 because you already have dedicated parts for that.
 
Oh and for what its worth, if I am not mistaken these KB280 pistons I have also will make a 512 with the right crank and rods. lol

I am mistaken about those workin for a 512. Seems I remember there was a part number that worked for both. Maybe I was on dope that day.
 
No, ALL 400s are beefier than any other factory big block besides the Hemi w/cross bolted mains. Beyond that, there are some cold weather blocks, cast between early 71 and mid '71 (thru June I think) whose casting number ends in "230" that have even thicker main webbing. If you have a 383 or 440 next to a 400 you'll see why they are stronger...
 
moper said:
No, ALL 400s are beefier than any other factory big block besides the Hemi w/cross bolted mains. Beyond that, there are some cold weather blocks, cast between early 71 and mid '71 (thru June I think) whose casting number ends in "230" that have even thicker main webbing. If you have a 383 or 440 next to a 400 you'll see why they are stronger...
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YES! Truth in that statement. Was the point I shoulda made,lol!:toothy10:

It's the reason I went with the 400 :cheers:.
 
See Im asking now because im not to far into my build. Not to mention the only thing that wont work that I bought is the T-Ram and bearings and pistons. Which I could sell and buy the correct ones and not skip a beat. I called a machine shop today. Its $175 to grind the crank down for the stroker then $150 to balance.
 
I Have A 413cid Engine 4-Sale

Completely rebuilt from intake to oil pan with all NEW internals, sitting on engine stand. Everything is new (Mostly Mopar Performance Parts)! The heads have been completely disassembled, cooked, mag, inspected and assembled with everything new from rockers to valves, springs and port matched to the intake. The block has been cooked, mag, line bored, balanced, down to a new electronic distributor. All it needs is a water pump, plug wires and a carb. The pistons are 9.5 to 1, the cam is streetable and set up for an automatic trans (making it nice if one decided to put a 4-speed behind it) and the engine was built to handle a blower or spray if one chooses to do so.
 
i chose to sell 440 and build a 451/ or even a 471! which is a nice revving engine! i like low deck stroker big blocks, although ive never ever owned a big block anything, i would love to have one..!!!!
 
moper said:
No, ALL 400s are beefier than any other factory big block besides the Hemi w/cross bolted mains. Beyond that, there are some cold weather blocks, cast between early 71 and mid '71 (thru June I think) whose casting number ends in "230" that have even thicker main webbing. If you have a 383 or 440 next to a 400 you'll see why they are stronger...
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Well cool. You got into somethin there I was not aware of. I did know one of the 400s was more desireable. I had no ideathey were stronger though. I GOTTA 400 BLOCK FOR SALE YALL!!!! It's in the for sale section under "Big Block Stuff For Sale".
 
Rob, turn the 400 over and look at the main saddle areas and the sides of the webbing where they go up to the bottoms of the cylinders and to the oil pan rails. Then look at a 383/440 and you'll see what I mean. It's not a ton of difference but there's more meat there than any other factry block. The "230" blocks are even beefier in those areas.

72 - You may also need to have the shop turn down the OD of the counterweights about .200" so it clears the B wedge main webbing. You'll want to trial fit it before you have the assembly balanced.
 
Actually I believe I’m going to stay 440. I don’t believe the 451 is going to put me any better then where I’m at giving the intention of the engine.
 
moper said:
Rob, turn the 400 over and look at the main saddle areas and the sides of the webbing where they go up to the bottoms of the cylinders and to the oil pan rails. Then look at a 383/440 and you'll see what I mean. It's not a ton of difference but there's more meat there than any other factry block. The "230" blocks are even beefier in those areas.

72 - You may also need to have the shop turn down the OD of the counterweights about .200" so it clears the B wedge main webbing. You'll want to trial fit it before you have the assembly balanced.
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Can knife edgeing be applied when turning said throws?
 
It could, sure. You can knife edge with a 4" grinder and/or a sawzall if you really wanted to. just make sure it's before it's balanced, and polish any sharpe edges to smooth to the touch. The thing is, on a deep skirt block like the Mopar big block is already up away from the oil and windage is pretty easy to control. I'm sure a small block would benefit much more than a big block.
 
moper said:
It could, sure. You can knife edge with a 4" grinder and/or a sawzall if you really wanted to. just make sure it's before it's balanced, and polish any sharpe edges to smooth to the touch. The thing is, on a deep skirt block like the Mopar big block is already up away from the oil and windage is pretty easy to control. I'm sure a small block would benefit much more than a big block.
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I think your right bb vs sb.But I wouldnt know where to stop when grinding,lol!!
 
For your build it's like Blonds or a Redhead?

You want a nice street engine that will be at the track a few times a year.
If you have 440 parts use them.
I have a great wall of shame in my garage of parts that should work.
Built a 74 Duster out of the junk on the wall and now it's the car everyone prefers to drive.

Junk out of the garage
IMGP1289.jpg


IMGP1283.jpg


Moral.
Think your build out.
Think your build out.
Did I already say that?

Post,read it twice and build it once.
I believe my DAD said this.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Which do you choose and why? Going into an A body. I have a 440 now that needs rebuilt. I have new pistons and rings for it gaskets, bearings intake and carbs. But everytime I see a 451 i feel like I just got to have one so what would you choose?
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451 has better rod ratio & lighter reciprocating assy. I'd do a 470 stroker instead. Check out this link & also get Andy's new book. Lots of good stuff about stroker builds.

http://www.arengineering.com/articles/451.html
 
You should build a 400 short deck motor. The first year out is the best because of the filled in webbing in the bottom end at the caps. Smaller mains has less bearing speed and use the B/B Chevrolet (sorry didn't mean to swear) con rod for less bearing speed, weight savings and smaller piston pin. The piston will save a ton of weight. That's the combo that powered the Wayne County Pro Stock to back to back Pro Stock titles 1990-91. It's just a better deal, but 440 is cheap and they based the Hemi on it! It comes down to money.
 
I would also look into the Edelbrock Max wedge heads,priced right and big CFM
 
OK i have read all the comments here and i just come to a conclusion,
Lets be real here,
If he build the 440 it will last for ever no mater what he trow at it remember guys this is no race car here and he don't need 900 HP.
All in all a well built & tuned 440 will give him 450+ HP in a budget with more torque to spare than a 451,
Size is not to significant to take it in consideration,
Weight, neither,
So why take the inconvenience on doing such an engine when you can have what you need in the 440?

Buddy if you are not building a serious race only machine, save the head etches and build your 440 you will be more than happy with your end results and even in the 650 hp range it will last for years to come, if done properly.
 
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