racerbob
Well-Known Member
I finally have laid out the cash and bought a 408 stoker rotating assembly to build my next engine for the dart. I have been racing the Dart Sport the past 5 years using 340 based power. Car currently goes as fast as 11.896 @ 112mph using a hydraulic flat tappet cam, "U" (#915) head, steel crank 340 I bought used for $1000 three seasons ago. Engine is still running strong, but I want to see if I can get car to run low 11's or even high 10's with a 408 engine.
I started this process by researching the market and arriving at buying a 4" stroker, forged steel crank, H-beam rod, dished JE forged piston balance rotating assembly kit from Ohio Crankshaft for $2000 (actually $2065.00 shipped to me in La Plata, MD). I had a few early 360 standard bore blocks to use, so I ordered the kit with 4.030 bore pistons.
Once I got the kit home, I installed the crank in the block, installed the rod with a mock-up piston and checked the rod bolt to block clearance. Had to grind out small notches at the base of each cylinder bore, otherwise the crank/rods cleared everything else. I was using a milodon main cap stud kit so I bottom tapped all of the main bearing cap retaining threads in the block. See notched cylinder bore shown in picture 1.
Set block to Clinton Auto Machine in Camp Springs, MD to be cleaned, checked for cracks, bored .030 over and have engine plugs and cam bearings installed (all for $385!).
Got block home and installed the main bearing retaining studs, main bearings and rear main seal (as shown in picture 2).
Gently lower the 4" stroker crank into place (picture 3).
Install the main caps and torque in three steps. (picture 4).
More to come later.
Bob
I started this process by researching the market and arriving at buying a 4" stroker, forged steel crank, H-beam rod, dished JE forged piston balance rotating assembly kit from Ohio Crankshaft for $2000 (actually $2065.00 shipped to me in La Plata, MD). I had a few early 360 standard bore blocks to use, so I ordered the kit with 4.030 bore pistons.
Once I got the kit home, I installed the crank in the block, installed the rod with a mock-up piston and checked the rod bolt to block clearance. Had to grind out small notches at the base of each cylinder bore, otherwise the crank/rods cleared everything else. I was using a milodon main cap stud kit so I bottom tapped all of the main bearing cap retaining threads in the block. See notched cylinder bore shown in picture 1.
Set block to Clinton Auto Machine in Camp Springs, MD to be cleaned, checked for cracks, bored .030 over and have engine plugs and cam bearings installed (all for $385!).
Got block home and installed the main bearing retaining studs, main bearings and rear main seal (as shown in picture 2).
Gently lower the 4" stroker crank into place (picture 3).
Install the main caps and torque in three steps. (picture 4).
More to come later.
Bob