abdywgn
dismantler
GREAT! (I wonder how big a gain would be from a more aerodynamic body?) Deora anybody?
408 Stroker Short Block Details: Blueprint Engines
- Thread starter 12many
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j par
Well-hung Member
What's that about 5k in the parts? There's people claiming they can do 10 seconds on 5K and that includes the car...lol...Last run for the year, temps near 60 had best 330’, 1/8 mile and a solid 11.75 in the 1/4 (no tailwind aids!) A 7.38 in the 1/8= goal met, didn’t really have a chance to try and break into the 11.6’s in the 1/4 which I was confident was in it but as there was a large turnout, multiple delays from fluids on the starting line (one oiled the entire left lane= 1-1/2 hr cleanup delay) next run I did was 3-1/2 hrs later, my tires slipped at launch obviously finding some residual fluids they missed! Packed it in as the line was too long to make another. About all I’m gonna get out of it as is. Pile of goodies at the ready though: TF heads, bigger solid cam, intake, converter, etc. 110+/-mph is all it’s got in it now and I want to see 115-117, hope my plans will get me there. The shop is calling
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Have you weighed the van yet? I can't remember...
With preferred buyer discounts, coupons, savings stamps, picking up cans....nah, only a lone Summit discount for the heads it’s close to $3500 iirc but I quit adding it all up, I’ve adopted the phrase “Money Under The Bridge”
it weighs about 3050 with a little fuel to make runs
j par
Well-hung Member
if you can afford it and you're enjoying the process then it really doesn't matter..With preferred buyer discounts, coupons, savings stamps, picking up cans....nah, only a lone Summit discount for the heads it’s close to $3500 iirc but I quit adding it all up, I’ve adopted the phrase “Money Under The Bridge”
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
With preferred buyer discounts, coupons, savings stamps, picking up cans....nah, only a lone Summit discount for the heads it’s close to $3500 iirc but I quit adding it all up, I’ve adopted the phrase “Money Under The Bridge”
What did you get for a converter?
It’s an FTI 9.5” 4000 Hard Hit.
Richard Sweet
Well-Known Member
Aren't you going to have a top clearance issue with that M1 intake and the dog house?
j par
Well-hung Member
Probably pretty simple to customize...
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
Aero mods are going to be the next step. Seal up some frontal openings, add a air dam/splitter, lower the van, rake the windshield back some....
I'd use some riv-nuts to mount the 'West Coast' mirrors so you can unscrew them for passes.
I'd use some riv-nuts to mount the 'West Coast' mirrors so you can unscrew them for passes.
j par
Well-hung Member
I wonder what kind of arrow-shaped plexiglass nose piece that you could put in the back and then bolt down for passive you can make...
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
I also think with his current pick of parts to throw on it, his headlights will become aircraft spotlights searching the skys. Keeping the wheelstands down low will be a major issue when that converter locks up.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
Fiberglass is easy. For an air dam/splitter use some 1/8" steel rod, shape and weld up a bracket so its a bolt on to fit the body.
Then using Flannel shirt martial dipped in Polyester resin, stretch it over the rod bracket. Add some here and there to get the shape where you want it and then lay a layer of fine woven glass cloth over the outsides and some coarse chopped glass on the insides. Basic non 'Ribbed for her....' Condoms filled with moist sand can be shaped for curves and then popped to remove the sand. ;)
If you mess up, grind the bad section out and reglass in new.
Just a down and dirty mod to his picture:
Then using Flannel shirt martial dipped in Polyester resin, stretch it over the rod bracket. Add some here and there to get the shape where you want it and then lay a layer of fine woven glass cloth over the outsides and some coarse chopped glass on the insides. Basic non 'Ribbed for her....' Condoms filled with moist sand can be shaped for curves and then popped to remove the sand. ;)
If you mess up, grind the bad section out and reglass in new.
Just a down and dirty mod to his picture:
All done with any more exterior mods, all engine and drivetrain related to get any further. Maybe lightweight disc on all fours, maybe!
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
The trade off of lighter disc's at 4 corners compared to less drag of drums. Discs are always dragging where drums can be adjusted loose. With loose drums you just have to step down on the brake pedal a bit more to remove the gap.
Yes some $$$$ disc calipers will pull the pads off the rotors.
Drums can be lightened down a lot. Turn them down till a few thousands less than MAX. Grind off the overlaping weather seal to the brake backer plate.
And you don't need super large TRUCK drums as the front brakes do most of the work and you most likely will not be hauling 1/2 ton of cargo....
I'd go light disc up front and lighter drums in the rear. Maybe a light weight driveshaft too.
Yes some $$$$ disc calipers will pull the pads off the rotors.
Drums can be lightened down a lot. Turn them down till a few thousands less than MAX. Grind off the overlaping weather seal to the brake backer plate.
And you don't need super large TRUCK drums as the front brakes do most of the work and you most likely will not be hauling 1/2 ton of cargo....
I'd go light disc up front and lighter drums in the rear. Maybe a light weight driveshaft too.
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Tell me about the camshaft!
Last run for the year, temps near 60 had best 330’, 1/8 mile and a solid 11.75 in the 1/4 (no tailwind aids!) A 7.38 in the 1/8= goal met, didn’t really have a chance to try and break into the 11.6’s in the 1/4 which I was confident was in it but as there was a large turnout, multiple delays from fluids on the starting line (one oiled the entire left lane= 1-1/2 hr cleanup delay) next run I did was 3-1/2 hrs later, my tires slipped at launch obviously finding some residual fluids they missed! Packed it in as the line was too long to make another. About all I’m gonna get out of it as is. Pile of goodies at the ready though: TF heads, bigger solid cam, intake, converter, etc. 110+/-mph is all it’s got in it now and I want to see 115-117, hope my plans will get me there. The shop is calling
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Bullet solid, with Ultradyne NF57 lobes. 282/255@050”, .388” lobe lift (.602” after lash w/1.6 rockers) 106 LSA
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
No. With the airbox, carb and insulator it is fine. Just can’t play around with any of the various spacers most do.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
Put a "Pro Stock" scoop on the roof and make a new engine dog house. Then there's room for twin turbos ;)
No, me ether.
No, me ether.
You’re out of control!!
Finally the Trick Flows and reworked M1 single plane are on, and changed cam plans with a custom Schneider solid over the Bullet solid, fast rate chatter here and elsewhere got the best of me initially but the more I weighed things the more I realized I just couldn’t do it. Also about a .5 bump in compression and (for time being) running the Current Turbo Action 3500 converter purely for shake down runs to determine exactly what stall I’ll need. Sometimes you shoot your wad too soon, think you have things figured and then end up going a different route. Money under the bridge......spending my “Biden Bucks” wisely! 
Plans being made for a roll bar also. What the hell let’s see what we can f up next!
Plans being made for a roll bar also. What the hell let’s see what we can f up next!
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Nice looking engine, should be a runner. nice choice of parts
j par
Well-hung Member
I liked my electric water pump because I could turn that on and the fan on and truly cool the engine with the engine off...
Axe-zakalee! Electric radiator fan and water pump for between round cooling.
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