426 Hemi in a 69 Dart

-
jobenz

jobenz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
77
Reaction score
7
Location
Connecticut
Does anyone out there have info on what it takes to put the 426 Hemi in a 69 Dart ???????????

Thanks very much :blob:
 
I put one in a '69 barracuda.

I wish I knew I had to put spacers between the k-frame and the body.

Oh yeah, lots of money too.
 
hemifish69 said:
I put one in a '69 barracuda.

I wish I knew I had to put spacers between the k-frame and the body.

Oh yeah, lots of money too.
Click to expand...


Fish!!!!

What are you doing over here?

YB getting boring? LOL!!!!

"Spacers" are very important when you are "shoe horning" one of these motors in a small space.

Lots of money helps too!!!!!

sscuda
 
jobenz said:
Does anyone out there have info on what it takes to put the 426 Hemi in a 69 Dart ???????????

Thanks very much :blob:
Click to expand...
Never been done before......can't be done.....

Seriously, does any one EVER search for ANYTHING before asking a question?
 
roccodart440 said:
I have a friend that did it. This is the best way to start unless you are quite crafty... http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/product.php?productid=16176&cat=268&page=1

Next big issue is headers.
Click to expand...


An AlterKation unit is OK but a stock K-Member can be modified to work with a Gen 2 Hemi without a lot of mods. I've had both and either worked well. If's it a "class car" you have to use the stock K-member.


Depending on the choice of heads will dictate the use of "store bought" headers or the need for custom built pieces. In some instances the "store bought" headers may require some mods (hammering) in order to fit.

sscuda
:glasses7:
 
sscuda said:
An AlterKation unit is OK but a stock K-Member can be modified to work with a Gen 2 Hemi without a lot of mods. I've had both and either worked well. If's it a "class car" you have to use the stock K-member.


Depending on the choice of heads will dictate the use of "store bought" headers or the need for custom built pieces. In some instances the "store bought" headers may require some mods (hammering) in order to fit.

sscuda
:glasses7:
Click to expand...

My k frame was modified for use with a rear sump pan. Was not a big deal at all. If you are going to be dropping the $$$$$$ for a HEMI a set of custom headers should not be a deal breaker. Have spoken with a shop that has built headers for a lot of the SS cars......he is using 2.5 (I think that is what he said) diameter pipes. Told me takes no more than half an hour to get them or out, keep in mind this is with the oe k frame/torsion bars/steering box. When you are willing to spend the $$$ on GOOD stuff a lot of your typical troubles go away....But I am sure you already know all of this........It is obviously not your first time down this road......
 
A picture of what a factory one looks like if you want to run a rear sump oil pan. Of course this means you will need a tube thru the sump. Will get a picture of my pan when I go outside later......

View attachment 100_0119.jpg

Keep in mind that you can use a HemiDenny k-member and keep a flat hood, depending on your intake choice. There is a few fellows on here with a HEMI and his k-member using flat hoods.

Will probably be a toss up $$ wise between the factory k-member and custom headers vs. a HemiDenny k frame and a set of B (perhaps E) body TTI headers that Denny has used with his k frame.

Some info on a Demon getting a HEMI with a HD k frame.......

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=88358

Just use the search feature here, search for threads started by HemiMark
 
Afternoon, has anyone transplanted a 426 hemi in a 68 or 69 Dart ????? Looking for information as to problem areas, what fits / doesn't fit........
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Joe from Connecticut :banghead:
 
I have put many 66-71 Hemis in A-bodies and be glad to try answer your concerns...but I need a little info on what you building.

street car?
race car?
transmission?
 
If you go with an OE k frame you will need


View attachment 100_0161.jpg

View attachment 100_0162.jpg

View attachment 100_0163.jpg

View attachment 100_0178.jpg


to chop the right side inner fender for valve cover clearance. One thing you do not want to do is trust that plastic mock up block that is people often use.

View attachment 100_0101.jpg

as it is a bit off dimension wise. The block was the same one that was used in hemicops car. When he finally got the real deal in the car he tried to use the valve covers that are in the picture. The valve cover ended up sitting right on the inner fender.
 
inkjunkie said:
If you go with an OE k frame you will need


View attachment 1714615496

View attachment 1714615497

View attachment 1714615498

View attachment 1714615499


to chop the right side inner fender for valve cover clearance. One thing you do not want to do is trust that plastic mock up block that is people often use.

View attachment 1714615500

as it is a bit off dimension wise. The block was the same one that was used in hemicops car. When he finally got the real deal in the car he tried to use the valve covers that are in the picture. The valve cover ended up sitting right on the inner fender.
Click to expand...

This is an awful lot of unnecessary hard work to install a Hemi in your abody. Denny's k-frame will bolt right in, no body mods what-so-ever. I'm thinking you need to PM Denny and just pick his brain.....I did 14 years ago and I'm glad I did.
In addition the cost is spot on!
 
HemiMark said:
This is an awful lot of unnecessary hard work to install a Hemi in your abody. Denny's k-frame will bolt right in, no body mods what-so-ever. I'm thinking you need to PM Denny and just pick his brain.....I did 14 years ago and I'm glad I did.
In addition the cost is spot on!
Click to expand...

That was all done when I was hung up on the oe k member.......when I get back to the car it is going to have one of Denny's k frames.......no matter what I chose for a power plant.......
 
inkjunkie said:
My k frame was modified for use with a rear sump pan. Was not a big deal at all. If you are going to be dropping the $$$$$$ for a HEMI a set of custom headers should not be a deal breaker. Have spoken with a shop that has built headers for a lot of the SS cars......he is using 2.5 (I think that is what he said) diameter pipes. Told me takes no more than half an hour to get them or out, keep in mind this is with the oe k frame/torsion bars/steering box. When you are willing to spend the $$$ on GOOD stuff a lot of your typical troubles go away....But I am sure you already know all of this........It is obviously not your first time down this road......
Click to expand...


Inkjunkie,

In reality I prefer to modify the stock K -member to meet my needs. I have used Alterkation on a "street car" and found their unit OK, not great but OK.

As far as headers go I use the latest and greatest aftermarket aluminum race heads out there and my engine builder likes to port them to excess so I have no choice but go the custom route. I get my flanges lazer cut to match the exhauset port size/configuartion and I buy a tube kit fab up the headers myself. I had a set done a few years back by a reputable builder and they were good but a little too pricey and it took forever to get them from the builder. 2 1/4 I.D. stainless tube is about a big as I want to go.

1/2 hour to take a set of headers out? That's outstanding!!! My best time is about two days. LOL!!!!

sscuda
:glasses7:
 
sscuda said:
Inkjunkie,

In reality I prefer to modify the stock K -member to meet my needs. I have used Alterkation on a "street car" and found their unit OK, not great but OK.

As far as headers go I use the latest and greatest aftermarket aluminum race heads out there and my engine builder likes to port them to excess so I have no choice but go the custom route. I get my flanges lazer cut to match the exhauset port size/configuartion and I buy a tube kit fab up the headers myself. I had a set done a few years back by a reputable builder and they were good but a little too pricey and it took forever to get them from the builder. 2 1/4 I.D. stainless tube is about a big as I want to go.

1/2 hour to take a set of headers out? That's outstanding!!! My best time is about two days. LOL!!!!

sscuda
:glasses7:
Click to expand...

They are slip jointed everywhere from what I understand. Tabs & springs hold them together.....
 
inkjunkie said:
They are slip jointed everywhere from what I understand. Tabs & springs hold them together.....
Click to expand...



My headers are all welded, no spring & tabs. If I was to build another set I might consider springs and tabs. It makes more sense.

I see you have a plastic mock up motor too. I bought a used one off of Racing Junk last year for half price. It sure saves all the grunt work when locating the motor plates and trans mount. I have no idea why I didn`t buy one when they first came out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top