430+hp 340 possibilities

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B3422w5 said:
he built it himself, ported the heads himself, probably actually wasn't very expensive at all.
He broke it a while back, think its back together again now
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Will he build one for me? lol
 
LO23M8B said:
Get up to a real 11.5 to 12.0 to 1 use head studs.
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So much for cheap and pump gas…..
430hp is a high number 400 is still a lot. 3800lbs 69 cuda 340 with a 4.10 @6000 12.20 @6500 11.86. This is about 400 ponies.
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430 is not a lot of power if you have the right equipment backing it. Through OE as cast heads… story is a changing! As far as ET & speed…..
Only on a well sorted car for the track.
 
LO23M8B said:
Will he build one for me? lol
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he is the guy who just redid the Bloomer racing heads his brother offers, i would love to have him do something for me, very busy guy.
Those heads are now available, if i went with a new non offset head, that is what i would buy, wouldn't think twice
 
PRH said:
I’m going with.....dreaming a little.

For the type of application you’re talking about, don’t focus on the power output.
Select parts that are complimentary to how the car will be used, the gearing, etc.
Make it so all the parts are “on the same page”....... and then the power is what it is.

I built an iron headed 450hp stock stroke 340 years ago....... it wouldn’t really have been suitable in a street car with closed exhaust and 3.55’s.

It did go 11.60’s in a 68 B body though.
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Extremely Respectable....
 
5CB54097-ACD1-444F-A327-8DE830969761.jpeg


pretty sure this pic was after he won a box class race with it
 
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B3422w5 said:
he is the guy who just redid the Bloomer racing heads his brother offers, i would love to have him do something for me, very busy guy.
Those heads are now available, if i went with a new non offset head, that is what i would buy, wouldn't think twice
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Bloomer heads? Please tell me more.
 
rumblefish360 said:
So much for cheap and pump gas…..

430 is not a lot of power if you have the right equipment backing it. Through OE as cast heads… story is a changing! As far as ET & speed…..
Only on a well sorted car for the track.
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Well a fine tuned motor can work on pump gas (I'd still use racing gas) On a 11 - 11.5 use can mix it to keep costs down but what a difference in performance. I used to motors and convinced all my customers to mix their fuel and today with levels of alcohol in the fuel unknown I would highly recommend it. Just how many miles a year do the average people drive these cars. Not much. When you add 2 gal. race gas to a 15 gal tank you put in 13 gal of pump gas plus 2 gal race gas add total $$ divide by 15 and that's your cost. Here Premium pump gas is 4.00 x 13 = 52.00 race fuel is 12.00 in the can x 2 = 24.00 total $76.00 / 15 = $5.07 a buck more. If you use reg. at 3.39 the price is only $4.60 and 2 gals. of leaded 110 makes a big difference in unleaded fuel.
 
B3422w5 said:
read this thread, especially the more recent posts

Small Block Head Flow Chart
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Nice. Thanks. I don't have flow numbers on my J steel heads but the port job looks great. Ported by a nascar head guy. I do know you can have too much port on a motor you don't want w9's on a 6000 rpm 340. You need velosity too and most people only look at the flow numbers.
 
LO23M8B said:
Well a fine tuned motor can work on pump gas (I'd still use racing gas) On a 11 - 11.5 use can mix it to keep costs down but what a difference in performance. I used to motors and convinced all my customers to mix their fuel and today with levels of alcohol in the fuel unknown I would highly recommend it. Just how many miles a year do the average people drive these cars. Not much. When you add 2 gal. race gas to a 15 gal tank you put in 13 gal of pump gas plus 2 gal race gas add total $$ divide by 15 and that's your cost. Here Premium pump gas is 4.00 x 13 = 52.00 race fuel is 12.00 in the can x 2 = 24.00 total $76.00 / 15 = $5.07 a buck more. If you use reg. at 3.39 the price is only $4.60 and 2 gals. of leaded 110 makes a big difference in unleaded fuel.
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I agree. But…. It honestly doesn’t really seem to fit the thread in the way of the OP’s builds and what he has.
Also, IMO, the adding of race fuel to a driver for regular driving purposes is a bit much on the extra chore level for a regular car that’s driven & to be enjoyed.

If one was willing to add some race fuel to there car, that’s fine, just not a solution for most I think. You brake it down easy enough to justify the cost. It works out. However, to keep this level of running & driving pep ready at your disposal would probably require anyone using this method to retain a stock pile of race gas cans in there garage.

Around here, race gas available at certain speed shops come in 5 gallon cans at what ever the particular prices is for that particular fuel grade.

Around here;
C9-5Gal (96 octane) @$88.99 = $17.80 per gallon
C12-5Gal @ $101 = $20.20
C14-5Gal @ $115 =$23.00
C16-5Gal @ $118 =23.60

Outright cost is a bit pricey. Race fuel is not so easily gotten at the pump around here. Why push it? If it makes things more complex and cost more, why bother?
It’s EZ to whittle something down until it makes sense or in your favor dollar and cents, but when it comes to actually doing it, is the hassle worth it?

I really don’t have $200.00 + in spare monies to spend and then store race fuel for the enjoyable ride even if rarely driven. In the end, it doesn’t make sense or cents to do.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I agree. But…. It honestly doesn’t really seem to fit the thread in the way of the OP’s builds and what he has.
Also, IMO, the adding of race fuel to a driver for regular driving purposes is a bit much on the extra chore level for a regular car that’s driven & to be enjoyed.

If one was willing to add some race fuel to there car, that’s fine, just not a solution for most I think. You brake it down easy enough to justify the cost. It works out. However, to keep this level of running & driving pep ready at your disposal would probably require anyone using this method to retain a stock pile of race gas cans in there garage.

Around here, race gas available at certain speed shops come in 5 gallon cans at what ever the particular prices is for that particular fuel grade.

Around here;
C9-5Gal (96 octane) @$88.99 = $17.80 per gallon
C12-5Gal @ $101 = $20.20
C14-5Gal @ $115 =$23.00
C16-5Gal @ $118 =23.60

Outright cost is a bit pricey. Race fuel is not so easily gotten at the pump around here. Why push it? If it makes things more complex and cost more, why bother?
It’s EZ to whittle something down until it makes sense or in your favor dollar and cents, but when it comes to actually doing it, is the hassle worth it?

I really don’t have $200.00 + in spare monies to spend and then store race fuel for the enjoyable ride even if rarely driven. In the end, it doesn’t make sense or cents to do.
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You certainly make good points, but to me, having to buy race gas compared to the sound, crispness, and torque of a higher compression engine is super worthwhile. Plus no nasty 10-15% garbage in pump gas these days
Around here i can buy it( 110) at the pump for 8 bucks, at the track for 9 a gallon.
I have a 15 gallon cell.
Frankly, i run a hoosier drag radial,many guys run such a tire, or a Mickey, or whatever. I actually think when i go out for a street cruise alot about having a flat tire, and things like that on a Saturday night. What do you do, how far do you go from home if a tow truck gets involved…do you leave you car unattended?
Stuff like that many dont think about.
So, at the end of the day, i dont venture terribly far from home, so the cost of 50 or 100 gallons of race fuel to drive it on the street during our modest summers isnt even a consideration to me
If i cant put a few hundred dollars in the tank to street drive my car each summer, i probably shouldnt have it.
Your also comparing NY to “ sane” states, LOL….
 
B3422w5 said:
You certainly make good points, but to me, having to buy race gas compared to the sound, crispness, and torque of a higher compression engine is super worthwhile. Plus no nasty 10-15% garbage in pump gas these days
Around here i can buy it( 110) at the pump for 8 bucks, at the track for 9 a gallon.
I have a 15 gallon cell.
Frankly, i run a hoosier drag radial,many guys run such a tire, or a Mickey, or whatever. I actually think when i go out for a street cruise alot about having a flat tire, and things like that on a Saturday night. What do you do, how far do you go from home if a tow truck gets involved…do you leave you car unattended?
Stuff like that many dont think about.
So, at the end of the day, i dont venture terribly far from home, so the cost of 50 or 100 gallons of race fuel to drive it on the street during out modest summers isnt even a consideration to me
If i cant put a few hundred dollars in the tank to street drive my car each summer, i probably shouldnt have it.
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While all that is great and I understand and partially agree, does it really fit this below? From the OP and his question and quest.
Lurbieloo said:
Ok. Maybe I can clarify things (or my idea) a little. The car is a 1970 duster 340. 4 spd 3:55 gears.
(I’ve read they are a 10.25:1 engine already?) so I already own a set of J heads with the 2:02, 1.6 valves that are ported by a speed shop. 5 angle valve job, stock pistons and rods, Doug’s headers, i have a victor junior intake and an LD 340 intake to choose from, a good 750 double pumper for a carb. I haven’t chose a cam yet but …..
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B3422w5 said:
no…lol, it doesnt..your right
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LOL… but adding the better fuel does make sense…
The MP guide lines suggested this.

The OP’s combo is out of wack a bit. The head is ported but to what extent? I do t think he knows what it will flow. I’ll just go on a guess and think out loud here a second and hope not to assume to badly that the heads are possibly just bowl ported and maybe… just maybe, port matched with pushrod protrusion whittled back a bit.

IDK what kind of air this will move.
 
Yes I keep my cell phone with me and a AAA card. I get 1 tow a year (i think) for 500 miles and a 100 mile regular. If it's not my a-body 4" I keep a lightweight wheel and tire for a spare and some tools.
 
LO23M8B said:
Yes I keep my cell phone with me and a AAA card. I get 1 tow a year (i think) for 500 miles and a 100 mile regular. If it's not my a-body 4" I keep a lightweight wheel and tire for a spare and some tools.
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i have a spool, so unless i had the same diameter tire to put on, driving it any distance if i had a flat wouldn't be good..lol
 
B3422w5 said:
i have a spool, so unless i had the same diameter tire to put on, driving it any distance if i had a flat wouldn't be good..lol
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So do I in 2 of my cars so I match the dia. to the rears and they can still go on the frt. I try to keep 28's on the street cars. Doesn't work well with the vehicles with a fuel cell. lol O ps my new caravan doesn't come with a spare. lol on me!
 
Pump gas engines can make good power. On the dyno my 434 was broke in and tuned with Crate 98 race gas. We switched to pump 93, with no other changes picked up 30 hp.

I build all my engines for pump 93 and the last three, 340, 408 and the 434 have been faster on pump 93 than any race gas I’ve tried.

Just my experience, yours may differ.
 
Good mention! Race gas does not make your car faster if it doesn’t want it.
 
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