5.2 Magnum Distributor Question

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RAMVAN96

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Evening fellas,

Forgive the rookie question. I'm getting my '93 5.2 Magnum prepped to drop in my '72 Dart. I am swapping the factory distributor with a Mopar Part Number 440-426 distributor. I'm too used to working on chevies and have muself overthinking this I believe.

Factory distributor has #1 firing when rotor is pointed at the #8 cylinder. I'm used to chevies pointimg at #1 when firing #1. What position is the correct position? Like I said I'm sure I'm overthinking it, but just wanting to get confirmation which way to set new dizzy in place. Thanks for tolerating me haha.
 
you are overthinking. It cannot fire #1 while pointing at #8.
 
you are overthinking. It cannot fire #1 while pointing at #8.
Sorry, I guess I should have worded that better. The original cap has (1) molded into it indicating it is the #1 post, but when the rotor is lined up with the post, it is pointing at #8 cylinder physically (making an invisible line). I'm used to chevies where #1 is physically lined up with #1 when in firing position.
 
You oil pump drive gear is not aligned right. You can either take it out and reset the position or just swap the wires where it will run.
 
The important thing is...at top dead center the rotor is firing on the wire that leads to #1 plug. Then follows the normal firing order 18436572.

Doesn't really matter where it's pointing as long as it's firing #1 at Top Dead Center , but the vacuum advance can hit the firewall or block if it's not centered.

Yes, you can re-clock the intermediate shaft so the slot lines up. Not all distributors are clocked the same way.
 
The important thing is...at top dead center the rotor is firing on the wire that leads to #1 plug. Then follows the normal firing order 18436572.

Doesn't really matter where it's pointing as long as it's firing #1 at Top Dead Center , but the vacuum advance can hit the firewall or block if it's not centered.

Yes, you can re-clock the intermediate shaft so the slot lines up. Not all distributors are clocked the same way.
I haven't taken the old dizzy out yet, so everything is currently how it left the factory. So the drive should not be out of sync.

I'm just going to remove the factory unit and install the new one identical to how the old one comes out.
 
Just make sure the timing is correct. That is, when the engine is at top dead center the rotor is pointing at the spark plug wire going to #1 cylinder.

Have you pulled the wires yet?
 
Just make sure the timing is correct. That is, when the engine is at top dead center the rotor is pointing at the spark plug wire going to #1 cylinder.

Have you pulled the wires yet?
Yes wires are off.
Rotor lines up with the (1) molded into the cap when #1 is at TDC.
 
Is there a directional arrow on the cap also? some have two ones one for small block and one for big block.
 
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Just install the spark plug wire from the molded #1 to the #1 cylinder. Then clockwise to the following cylinders: 8436572.
 
They put the arrow to "Front of Vehicle" too close to the distributor that it's confusing. Just go by the fan at the bottom of the picture (front of engine).


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Evening fellas,

Forgive the rookie question. I'm getting my '93 5.2 Magnum prepped to drop in my '72 Dart. I am swapping the factory distributor with a Mopar Part Number 440-426 distributor. I'm too used to working on chevies and have muself overthinking this I believe.

Factory distributor has #1 firing when rotor is pointed at the #8 cylinder. I'm used to chevies pointimg at #1 when firing #1. What position is the correct position? Like I said I'm sure I'm overthinking it, but just wanting to get confirmation which way to set new dizzy in place. Thanks for tolerating me haha.

Your distributor you are using Mopar PN440-426?....is that for a big block....wont work on a small block
 
Was wondering that also. Weird distributor number for a small block.
 
Can you post a picture of it?.....Does the rotor line up with the slot on the bottom of the distributor? ...or is it about 90 degrees off?
 
Can you post a picture of it?.....Does the rotor line up with the slot on the bottom of the distributor? ...or is it about 90 degrees off?
I'll look at that tomorrow, taking the wife out for dinner right now so I locked up the shop for the night.

I'll compare the drives once I pull the old dizzy out and set it by the new one.

Thanks for the guideance tonight gents.
 
THIS HAS BEEN POSTED MANY TIMES. The DRIVE TANG is not in the same relative position on all distributors. As someone earlier^^ posted, you can either "walk" the pump drive up and change the gear, or just time it where it wants to be IE off a hole or two.

Pull the no1 plug. Bump or wrench the engine until you start to feel compression. Then continue to bring the timing marks "up" NOT to TDC but rather 'where you want' initial timing. Depending on cam this could be 10-15--20* BTDC. Install the dist so the rotor is "corner to corner" at the cap contacts approaching no1 or if the gear is off, either change the gear or drop the dist in so the vacuum advance has room to move, and so the rotor is towards driver side front corner. it can only go in 2 ways.

Now, with engine timing marks "where you want" IE 10-15 BTC, or so, move the dist so the pickup coil and reluctor are aligned. Drop no1 wire into the hole that is aligned with the rotor.

YOU CAN CHECK timing with a light on the starter (Thanks Cracked back for reminding me)
 
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