$50 Craigslist 360 EXTREME budget rebuild??

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j par said:
I thought the object was to get it back down to the compression ratio of the original 318 but having better head flow and bigger valves ?

="Cudafever, post: 1971620286, member: 11691"]See I don't get this.
Why pay the extra money to have .040 shaved of the head and then us a thicker head gasket..........If you only want .010 closer piston to head clearance.........why not just use the thin head gasket and have .010 shaved off the head and be done.
.040 was to raise your compression, Right? .010 is not going to make much of a change...........or am i completely lost here........
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[/QUOTE]
Yes, that is the object. Even if you sacrifice a little compression, the flow will be worth it.
Cudafever was asking why go the ".040" route. He was trying to find a cheaper route. His idea wasn't bad, but would be more expensive the first time the heads ever got pulled. I hoped I explained it to him well enough in the above post.
 
j par said:
How well do head gaskets reuse? I think I still have the ones from the original stroker build.
Click to expand...

Much of it is determined by the gasket..........couple of pages back I offered up a pair of Cometics for free, one crush cycle, no thermal cycle, .030 thick, you declined, some one else asked for them and they are gone.

I have reused head gaskets that have been only crushed; my mean teen wears a pair of the no longer available thin MP gaskets that were left over from when I had my 360 plate honed.

In the end, if you have a set, that aren't kinked or otherwise damaged, go for it. Think of it as a learning experience, deviation from the list of "must do's", "gotta do's" to "what can I get away with"; that doesn't mean be sloppy or careless about anything, you are just cutting corners where you can; when you're done, stand on it just as hard as you can.
 
On the heads, go right for the max cut of .060......in the overall skeem of things what is their life after this, and if, IF you needed to resurface them, you still have a little room. What would be important to do would be to stamp the heads how much they've been cut, saves wringing the memory cells later.
 
JBurch said:
On the heads, go right for the max cut of .060......in the overall skeem of things what is their life after this, and if, IF you needed to resurface them, you still have a little room. What would be important to do would be to stamp the heads how much they've been cut, saves wringing the memory cells later.
Click to expand...


Thanks J-bar and 318willrun
I agree with JBurch, if your going to cut then cut then all the way, then add the rocker arm shim if needed.
When my buddy shaved is heads(maxed them out) we were young and didn't get why it wouldn't start. The machine shop sold him the shims and had to explained why we had to us them.
 
Cudafever said:
Thanks J-bar and 318willrun
I agree with JBurch, if your going to cut then cut then all the way, then add the rocker arm shim if needed.
When my buddy shaved is heads(maxed them out) we were young and didn't get why it wouldn't start. The machine shop sold him the shims and had to explained why we had to us them.
Click to expand...
maybe .060 would be the ticket..... only I don't like suggesting what I haven't experienced. I'm not sure the intake would/wouldn't have to be cut..... or not... at .060. I know my experience has been "no problem" at .040, even .045. Haven't tried .060. If he didn't have to cut the intake, yes, it would be better. Maybe he will try it and let us know....???? :realcrazy:
 
Yeah the intake had to be shaved.......OK maybe it didn't, but Mother Mopar said shave x amount on head =X amount on intake surface. So that what he did.
 
Yes I'm definitely going to work with the 360 heads and at this point I'm leaning towards 50. That will making everybody happy and maybe pushing it a little. I will have the cast iron intake so that might not be different to trim aluminum?
Cleaning cleaning cleaning .....................
 
Hillbilly Parts washer....:thumbsup:
20170401_172243.jpg
 
20170401_184705.jpg
20170401_184732.jpg
The first layer of Crud is off. I'm hoping what looks like a crack in the exhaust seat is not the cause of that exhaust Port having access carbon/oil crud?
 
Cleaning cleaning cleaning.....
Cut wife loose with the wire wheel and I looked over and she's damn near takin the hide off the oil pan!
20170402_144904.jpg
 
X-MAS !!
Gaskets and small items to make up my $100 summit order came today. YAY!
Still cleaning
(this is just to prove it can be done in a relatively short amount of time at home with mostly simple tools on a very very tight budget) next time I'm dropping this crud off to be hot tanked and happily paying for it !
NO - LOL!
 
For the DIY ers,
Lots of ways to clean, but I found you can't beat a car wash AFTER you pre-soak it with engine degreaser.
 
j par said:
How aggressive can I get above the top ring mark? Cleaning.
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Well, for the car wash I was talking the heads, sorry. As for the block, I used a pressure washer at my house. I don't spray directly at the pistons, but when i'm done I run the piston down and oil the cylinders, rotate the assembly.
 

I paid not too much money years ago when I was building my willys to have parts tanked.
My local machine shop was only charging me like $20 to dip transmission cases, complete rear ends etc.
It was worth every penny, just to drop greasy parts off, and come back really clean.
 
Alright, next couple of days off. Taking heads to machine shop. (This is NOT part of the EXTREME BUDGET part of the build) but if I used the 318 heads I would have had to likely do new valve guides sooo....a very little bit has to be spent.
got what I think is the worst piston clean - so now my confidence is building I'd like to have my block prep done and ready to start reassembly. I'll be giving a final clean to the heads in the morning and getting a feel for exactly how I'm going to tackle the valves, seats, and guides. The current questions going through my head Concerning the intake valves I have the ones that were reconditioned recently and the ones that came in the 360 heads. Of course the ones that were reconditioned are all cleaned up and nice but will they match the seats? And what about just getting a seat Stone? And the valve guides can't find a knurling tool I got to check and see how tight or loose they actually are and I don't know what the clearance should be if there should be any? plan on lapping the valves for sure. Oh yeah and the other thing, if I can find an adapter to fit that manifold that I got that will fit an Edelbrock carburetor?
 
Thank you for that link I may use that adapter I'm not sure yet. I would like to use Edelbrock because I'm familiar, but I may be tempted to give myself an educational on thermoquad. I was wondering if all valve grinds are 45 degrees for the most part? both the stock valves and the ones I had reconditioning were put back to their stock degree?
318willrun said:
  1. the adapter needed to put an Eddy on the cast Edelbrock 2732 Carburetor Adapter Plate | eBay
  2. The valve would "lap" in if you buy valve grinding compound, and lap 'em. May take a little time.
  3. If the cam is .470 lift or under, you should be ok without shortening the guides
  4. hope I understood your above post correctly :)
Click to expand...
 
j par said:
Thank you for that link I may use that adapter I'm not sure yet. I would like to use Edelbrock because I'm familiar, but I may be tempted to give myself an educational on thermoquad. I was wondering if all valve grinds are 45 degrees for the most part? both the stock valves and the ones I had reconditioning were put back to their stock degree?
Click to expand...
45* would be correct (stock). Also, I used that adaptor plate and it works great. I do recommend removing some of the plenum by the primaries to help the front barrels on the eddy line up to the intake, if you get what i'm saying
 
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