j par
Well-Known Member
Anybody have any good ideas on how to get the intermediate shaft bushing out without a special tool? Like how can I do this at home on the cheap?
$50 Craigslist 360 EXTREME budget rebuild??
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A piece of all thread or smooth round stock, 'bout 10 inches ling, 'bout 5/16 dia........with the rear main cap off, slide the all thread down the hole, **** it off to one side, catch the edge of the bushing and drive it out.............
j par
Well-Known Member
Okay picking up steam now. I did drop the heads off at the shop and said .050 please. He said Monday at the latest? I'm assuming that's Monday after this next. That 150 will bring the bill up to 350 all in. Got all the Pistons clean today and there was several layers of very hard Carbon. Once I get that bushing in the block will be ready for its final cleaning. I got everything pretty much ready for its final cleaning and assembly. The heavy crud is now off! Yay!!!
and you do remember this ?
j par
Well-Known Member
That was easy. The hollowed-out cheap piece of pot metal damn near fell out when I sneezed! It was so loose in there. And it was completely wore out and brittle and chiseled right out. New one is in!
j par
Well-Known Member
Okay going into final clean stage for the block. I got the bushing in and I hung the block up in the air so I can get to the back freeze plugs and got those out finally. now I can flush the water galleys really well and I'll try and flush the oil galleys. I guess with water also and then take the Scotch-Brite and hit all the machines surfaces with Scotch-Brite and soapy water and just the inside lip of the cylinders and rinse it all off and then fog it all out with WD-40 and BP blaster. Then I can start Assembly bye just cleaning the machine surfaces that I need to seal as I need to seal them. I can use some alcohol or something on a rag or carb cleaner to prep all the services and seal them. I need to put main seal in. I need to put the windage tray main cap bolts on. the windage tray on. I plan on making my own oil pump gasket if the kit didn't come with one. Then put the oil pump on pick up and finally the oil pan. Hopefully by that time the heads will be back but I can also still put the cam back in timing chain lifters the timing chain cover the water pump there's still a lot to do but I'm glad all the big cleaning is done and I can start Assembly at least by the end of the weekend. I think before I do anything else I'm going to do a re-clean on the work area.
j par
Well-Known Member
j par
Well-Known Member
So I'm "assuming" the momentary blast of water for an hour or so scrubbing and cleaning isn't going to to do any harm if chased out with WD-40 ?
j par
Well-Known Member
j par
Well-Known Member
SCOOOOOORE !!! $40 swapmeet automatic shifter 
this doesn't affect the motor budget. But I will add it to the overall transformation.
this doesn't affect the motor budget. But I will add it to the overall transformation.
lol!
the chry swedge tool his a rod with a ball on the end of it. You take a hammer, beat the ball threw the bushing, allowing it to form to all the imperfections in the casting while resizing it the perfect size for you intermediate shaft to fit thru.
How tight is it? can you spin it with your fingers? can you push it in and out without using something besides you hands.
If you can do all of that disregard all Sweding comments.
j par
Well-Known Member
j par
Well-Known Member
Final clean and assembly will start after the swapmeet..
j par
Well-Known Member
Okay ya, I had to tap it in there the first time and tap it out and then it kind of almost dropped half way in and I tapped it in but every time it went all the way to the bottom it spun relatively freely and then the last time it almost dropped right in and it seemed to fix itself and drops in it and Spins freely now. but thank you for that because the first time it did not even budge.
So I got back from the swap meet early today and plan on running down to the store and getting the Scotch-Brite. Hopefully I'll come back and blast it all out and get the final flushout done and get some stuff to get it oiled.
So I got back from the swap meet early today and plan on running down to the store and getting the Scotch-Brite. Hopefully I'll come back and blast it all out and get the final flushout done and get some stuff to get it oiled.
j par
Well-Known Member
It is now officially "as good as it gets!".
So now I need to research how to put in the freeze plugs.
how to change rear main seal - would like to take rear main cap off so I can clean the surface for the oil pump gasket that I'll have to make. So I have to change the main bolts on number 2 and number 4 for the windage tray. And at this point I'm thinking of detoquing all the main caps changing the 2/4 bolts dipping the tips of all of them in fresh oil and retorquing all ten bolts. Could make it easier to put the rear main seal in? I can put some assembly lube in there at the same time? Or I could do the 2/4 bolts one at a time and then just take the rear main cap off by itself? Then I think I'll put the cam and timing chain back in so I can put the timing chain cover on first before I put the oil pan On.
I use the "right stuff" for most stuff...
So now I need to research how to put in the freeze plugs.
how to change rear main seal - would like to take rear main cap off so I can clean the surface for the oil pump gasket that I'll have to make. So I have to change the main bolts on number 2 and number 4 for the windage tray. And at this point I'm thinking of detoquing all the main caps changing the 2/4 bolts dipping the tips of all of them in fresh oil and retorquing all ten bolts. Could make it easier to put the rear main seal in? I can put some assembly lube in there at the same time? Or I could do the 2/4 bolts one at a time and then just take the rear main cap off by itself? Then I think I'll put the cam and timing chain back in so I can put the timing chain cover on first before I put the oil pan On.
I use the "right stuff" for most stuff...
I don't think i will ever install a freeze plug without some kind of sealant!
If you put the rear main seal in with the half shell NOT flush with the parting line of the main cap, you will have a better chance of it sealing up completely.
I would have all the main caps loose when your trying to roll the old seal out and the new one in past the crank.
If you put the rear main seal in with the half shell NOT flush with the parting line of the main cap, you will have a better chance of it sealing up completely.
I would have all the main caps loose when your trying to roll the old seal out and the new one in past the crank.
j par
Well-Known Member
FOOOM!
You still have the crank in right, so you will have to push the rear main seal out while turning the crank, right,......and you will need to do the same thing to put the new one in.
With all the main caps loose it will come out easier and the new one will go back in easier.
If the parting lines of the two half, of the rear main seal, are in the groove of the cap/block instead of the seal parting line in like with the main cap parting lines.
I don't claim to be articulate or make any sence......but i try
Ok lets try this. when you roll the new seal in and you get it flush with the block, tap it just a little bit further so one end is in the groove of the block and the other end is sticking out slightly. Will be slightly in the main cap when installed.
A touch of silicone on the end and you're done.
Did that help?
With all the main caps loose it will come out easier and the new one will go back in easier.
If the parting lines of the two half, of the rear main seal, are in the groove of the cap/block instead of the seal parting line in like with the main cap parting lines.
I don't claim to be articulate or make any sence......but i try
Ok lets try this. when you roll the new seal in and you get it flush with the block, tap it just a little bit further so one end is in the groove of the block and the other end is sticking out slightly. Will be slightly in the main cap when installed.
A touch of silicone on the end and you're done.
Did that help?
j par
Well-Known Member
Crystal clear And I could tell you were typing slowly so I could keep up thank you..
You still have the crank in right, so you will have to push the rear main seal out while turning the crank, right,......and you will need to do the same thing to put the new one in.
With all the main caps loose it will come out easier and the new one will go back in easier.
If the parting lines of the two half, of the rear main seal, are in the groove of the cap/block instead of the seal parting line in like with the main cap parting lines.
I don't claim to be articulate or make any sence......but i try
Ok lets try this. when you roll the new seal in and you get it flush with the block, tap it just a little bit further so one end is in the groove of the block and the other end is sticking out slightly. Will be slightly in the main cap when installed.
A touch of silicone on the end and you're done.
Did that help?
j par
Well-Known Member
Wait a minute, if I have the main caps all loose and I turn the crank - it wouldn't push the crank up out?
Use grey RTV on the freeze plugs. tap 'em in with a socket the same size as the O.D.
Rear main seal, I just take off the rear main cap, drive the old seal out enough to grab on to it and pull it out. Other one goes in with a little sealant on the lip, and it's directional as explained in the directions
Rear main seal, I just take off the rear main cap, drive the old seal out enough to grab on to it and pull it out. Other one goes in with a little sealant on the lip, and it's directional as explained in the directions
Cool!
Some guys can write 5 word and you get it............I'm not that guy
As far as the freeze plugs sealant goes. I used Permatex Form a Gasket Sealant #1 It sealed up a freeze plug that was way pitted.
Pitted so bad the a rubber freeze and stop leak
wouldn't seal it, but a new freeze plug and the permatex has fix it. Thats why i said i will never install another one without it.
Some guys can write 5 word and you get it............I'm not that guy
As far as the freeze plugs sealant goes. I used Permatex Form a Gasket Sealant #1 It sealed up a freeze plug that was way pitted.
Pitted so bad the a rubber freeze and stop leak
wouldn't seal it, but a new freeze plug and the permatex has fix it. Thats why i said i will never install another one without it.j par
Well-Known Member
Well I think I'm trying both ideas kind of but if I can just take the rear main cap off and it comes out nicely which I think it's probably been changed before in the last rebuild I would have hoped. Then I can just do one by one with the two and four caps. One little bit of resistance from that seal and I'm going to loosen all the main caps.
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