66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

[360DartGT66]

Started looking at welders today but stumbled across a new door for 60 bucks (!) instead! And a '66 hood for $150. Not clear if that is a Valiant or a Dart hood, though. Are they the same?

Contacted the seller but no answer yet. I know some folks are not too fond of e-mail. Guess I'll call instead. Come to think of it, the seller is right near Ulf. Wonder if I can talk him into going there to take a look. :-k

I know my 72 yo dad hasn't used his welder in decades but that's not a mig. Could come in handy for making other stuff, though so I think I'll take that off his hands anyway.

The dome light is way down on the priority list. But I'll keep it in mind, Don. Thanks.

I have other electrical problems. See pics of bulkhead. :violent1: I'm thinking the previous owner had some issues with this car ...

Wire brushed the three layers of runny paint off my water pump pulley and gave it a coat of rust primer. Everything looks so nice in bare metal.

And here is my 727 filler tube, all but ready for installation.

Oh, and I did what I should've done long ago. Vacuumed the car and wiped the engine bay. Looks a helluva lot nicer.

 

[360DartGT66]

I did put the nut for steering ball joint in place. Feels good. But I think I'm going to replace all of that stuff. I don't like the look of the adjustment sleeves. They're slit the whole length. Feels like they might bend for the slightest bump. But maybe I'm just used to my 2010 Audi front end ...

Oh, and Ulf sent me screws for the exhaust manifolds. The passenger one was a breeze but I couldn't get the driver's side one in there. I guess I'll have to remove the steering column. And maybe that's a good idea for other reasons.

Is it supposed to look like this? I'm thinking something's missing. The two yellow seals (?) were taped in place using electrical tape.

 

[360DartGT66]

One more thing, My instrument cluster doesn't have a temp gauge. I knew it was broken when I bought it but started looking at it today and found out it's totally gone.

If anyone sees this and has one, please let me know. It's a '66.

 

[65 Dartman]

I'll reply when I'm back on the home computer - too much to go back and forth Lol!

 

[360DartGT66]

This guy is selling an HEI SB distributor with built-in ignition coil here in Sweden for $150.

Should I buy it or keep my Proform?

 

[65dartcharger]

This guy is selling an HEI SB distributor with built-in ignition coil here in Sweden for $150.

Should I buy it or keep my Proform?

Good price. Is your old one worn out?

 

[360DartGT66]

No, it's brand new, came with the car, new in the box.

I guess what I'm really asking is whether there is any point in getting the HEI one or if it doesn't matter.

 

[65 Dartman]

Started looking at welders today but stumbled across a new door for 60 bucks (!) instead! And a '66 hood for $150. Not clear if that is a Valiant or a Dart hood, though. Are they the same?

No - Dart and Valiant hoods are different and each are one year only.

I have other electrical problems. See pics of bulkhead. :violent1: I'm thinking the previous owner had some issues with this car ...

I suspect the burnt area is probably related to the alternator wire going to the ammeter. 9 times out of ten that's the problem.

I did put the nut for steering ball joint in place. Feels good. But I think I'm going to replace all of that stuff. I don't like the look of the adjustment sleeves. They're slit the whole length. Feels like they might bend for the slightest bump. But maybe I'm just used to my 2010 Audi front end ...

That's the way the adjustment sleeves are made. If you want to stiffen up the tie rods and adjustment sleeves, use the C Body sleeves and tie rods.

Oh, and Ulf sent me screws for the exhaust manifolds. The passenger one was a breeze but I couldn't get the driver's side one in there. I guess I'll have to remove the steering column. And maybe that's a good idea for other reasons.

Is it supposed to look like this? I'm thinking something's missing. The two yellow seals (?) were taped in place using electrical tape.

To install the factory driver's side exhaust manifold, yes the steering column needs to be either removed or pulled bnack into the passenger compartment to slide the manifold in place. Looks like those seals were the inner part of the larger rubber lower steering column seal.

No, it's brand new, came with the car, new in the box.

I guess what I'm really asking is whether there is any point in getting the HEI one or if it doesn't matter.

If you are converting to HEI then maybe that's the one I'd choose.

 

[65 Dartman]

One more thing, My instrument cluster doesn't have a temp gauge. I knew it was broken when I bought it but started looking at it today and found out it's totally gone.

If anyone sees this and has one, please let me know. It's a '66.

Try placing a Want Ad - I've seen complete instrument cluster going for cheap, but then again, the shipping might be a deal breaker! :wack:

 

[360DartGT66]

Thanks again, Don!

Yes, I already did post a wanted ad but I just talked to Ulf on the phone and he thought he might actually have one. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!

I'm afraid I might be annoying him with stupid questions a lot in the time to come. Bad move to give out his cell phone number.

 

[360DartGT66]

Well look what I scored locally. $12. Swedish Facebook Mopar group. :cheers:

 

[65 Dartman]

You did well! They can be hard to find in the US

 

[360DartGT66]

Really? Well, I'll take good care of it then. I'm expecting a new dome light "glass" in the mail any day now, too.

Lost a couple of days changing one of the front springs in our old Audi. I hate changeing springs in McPherson struts ... :angryfir:

 

[moparmat2000]

Don,

Ulf actually already promised to send me a pulley so that problem should be out of the way! He'll be sending me some bolts, too.

The water pump lines up nicely with the alternator but the alternator is new so that could of course be an issue. How do I identify the water pump?

I'm planning on using the original instrument cluster with an additional set of gauges. I don't know if there is another hole in the block where I can put the idiot light oil pressure sender.

I guess the neutral switch is from the 904 transmission I no longer have. Or there would be a pretty big hole somewhere, no?

On the oil pressure sender, just run a tee or Y shaped fitting out of the block, attach the gage sender and the idiot light sender

 

[moparmat2000]

Made some tangible progress today. Gave my tranny oil filler tube and dipstick handle a shot of rust protection. Will be mopar blue eventually.

I also wasted a lot of time trying to renovate the old starter. Changed the motor axle front bushing and tried to replace the brushes. Busted the plastic bad trying to get the copper pole the solenoid mates with out. Some Plastic Padding fiberglass filler and a little trimming with a chisel and I was good to go!

I managed to break it all again when I re-installed the brushes, though. ops:

Decided to put it all together to clear out my workbench and at least the starter works. For now. Probably won't last very long with that copper stud dangling. #-o

Hi Anders,

I have a better idea on that starter. Replace it with a later model one of the magnum 318-360. Its a nippondenso unit thats almost half the size and half the weight, and almost twice the horsepower of that old dog your trying to fix. Look up one of these for a 94 to 99 magnum V8 the starter teeth, and mounting flange are the same making it a bolt in. I got one remanned from a place in california off ebay for $39 shipped no core required. All the magnum series 3.9 V6 , 318-360 V8s used these. I think the last holdout for the magnum V8 was the dodge ram van thru 2003. You may be able to find one of these easily in Sweden if the 94 up dodge trucks and vans were imported. If not ebay is full of these.

Matt

 

[moparmat2000]

I did put the nut for steering ball joint in place. Feels good. But I think I'm going to replace all of that stuff. I don't like the look of the adjustment sleeves. They're slit the whole length. Feels like they might bend for the slightest bump. But maybe I'm just used to my 2010 Audi front end ...

Oh, and Ulf sent me screws for the exhaust manifolds. The passenger one was a breeze but I couldn't get the driver's side one in there. I guess I'll have to remove the steering column. And maybe that's a good idea for other reasons.

Is it supposed to look like this? I'm thinking something's missing. The two yellow seals (?) were taped in place using electrical tape.

Theres a rebuild kit available for the end of the steering shaft. It includes a retainer, seal, the internal pieces, and a new roll pin. Pretty cheap you can find em for about $16 ebay

 

[360DartGT66]

Hey moparmat, welcome to my thread and thanks for the input! :cheers:

Don already suggested the T for the oil pressure senders as you perhaps already saw. I'm on it.

I've seen the ministarters and definitely wouldn't mind having one. The trouble with them is that they're heavy which makes shipping a lot more expensive than the product. I could get one here in Sweden but then they're $150 plus shipping.

I actually only repaired this one for the "fun" of it. I bought a used one from a guy on a Facebook forum for $75 incl. shipping so I'm okay there.

I would really like to get front and rear sway bars but the shipping cost is pretty steep so I'm looking for local solutions. They aren't very advanced products so I'm thinking I might be able to use parts from an European brand which would make it possible to find them in scrap yards. Only takes a little hot rodding. :glasses7:

Thanks for the tip on the steering rebuild kit. They shouldn't be too expensive to ship either.

 

[360DartGT66]

btw, Don, didn't look hard enough at the bracket I bought ... :banghead:

 

[65 Dartman]

btw, Don, didn't look hard enough at the bracket I bought ... :banghead:

Well damn!

 

[moparmat2000]

Hi Anders,

I mentioned the factory mini denso starter as its very light compared to your stocker, and the solenoid, and brushes are common denso stuff. Should be easier for you to get parts later on. I'd say Should be very cheap to ship at that weight. When i recieved mine in the mail, i couldent believe the box was as light as it was. Almost thought i got an empty box LOL. Glad you got a replacement starter. Keep your eyes peeled in the scrapyard though. You will find these mini densos on the last gen ram vans with the magnum v6 or v8. Or any magnum v6 or v8 for that matter.

Matt

 

[360DartGT66]

Roger that, Matt.

I did get my new dome light glass in the mail yesterday. And I spent a couple of hours cleaning up and re-organizing my work bench. Much needed.

Unfortunately I broke my vice the other day trying to remove a bolt that was seized in the suspension of my old Audi. I guess that means I'll finally get to buy a proper one. I only paid $12 for it so I'm not too sad.

Decided to paint my pulleys matte black. Picture of the water pump pulley shortly.

I removed the fuel sending unit yesterday because I couldn't get a reading with my multimeter. It's pretty heavily oxidized. Does anyone have a tip on how to get the oxide off?

I know I can get a new one but I'd rather use the original one.

 

[moparmat2000]

Try submerging the whole assembly in a solution of feed grade molasses mixed with water for about a week. Look this up on the net molasses chelation. It removes rust from steel parts. This will help getting it much cleaner, then use a solution like CLR or liquid tarnex on the variable resistor wiper assembly.

You can get floats new for cheap if this ones no good. And i think somebody posted the proper ohms readings required for full, half, and empty.

Btw, i can get a weight in lbs for you on that mini starter if you want, so you have an idea what it should cost to ship if you find one.

 

[360DartGT66]

Thanks a lot, Matt! I'm not sure where I'll be able to find molasses, though ...

I saw the Ohm values somewhere just the other day and when I measure directly on the wiper, the reading is spot on but the connection from the wiper out to the plug outside the tank is too poor, i don't get a reading at all. Need to get the oxides off.

But like you said, It's not really worth it to put too much effort into it since I'm not doing a full original resto. And if I get a new one I can get one with a return line which I understand can be a good idea if I decide to go for an electric fuel pump some day.

And hey, don't worry about the starter, the one I have now is pretty new and doesn't sound worn out at all.

 

[moparmat2000]

Oh, i meant the brass float part clipped on the sender arm was cheap. I bought a new sending unit with 3/8 line. I cant remember what i payed for my aftermarket sending unit. But the whole assy wasnt cheap. I had no choice whenni got the car the only thing lying in the trunk was the gas tank strap, and filler tube.

I have been told the aftermarket ones ohm readings are off. And the gage reading either goes from full to half tank, or half tank to empty. If you can repair your original you would be better off.

 

[360DartGT66]

Oh, okay. Well, I'll try and get it running. Thanks.

Man, everybody's so very helpful in this forum. I'm so happy I found you all!