66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

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I will look around this afternoon and see if I have one.

I'll take some measurements tomorrow. Either the 727 dust covers came in different models or this piece is from a different transmission.

If you are going to the trouble of replacing some of your suspension parts, I would not skimp out and not do the UCA bushings. I'm sure you can do it!

The bushings are out. I didn't remove the outer metal sleeve, though. It looked like it wouldn't press out easily so I left it. When I saw that the kit included new outer sleeves it got me thinking I should press them out too but without a proper press ... I don't want to ruin my UCA:s.

I think your steering column will be a problem too! I have a set of those manifold and they look to be a big PITA to use. A member (I think he goes by HemiDenny ) is now making a set up to replace the torsion bars with coilovers and uses a R & P in the front. Do a quick search and you should find more info. I would love to have R & P but just cannot afford to do it to the wagon. There's a company in OZ that modifies the K Frame to use a rear mount R & P in the same place as the original centerlink.

The Magnum driver's side manifold simply will not work. The outlet interferes with the steering box long before it lines up with the exhaust ports and that's without the steering column mounted ...

I'll check out HemiDenny:s posts. I seem to remember seeing it there. Thanks.

I ground a couple of mounting bosses off on the passenger side and then that fit really nice. Looks a helluva lot better than the old 273 manifold and the outlet clears my oil filter perfectly.
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Djakken invited me to ride with him in his '59 this morning to the Power Fall Market in Vara, a little less than an hour from here. After thinking about it I respectfully declined, I spent four hours yesterday in the car on that same road and even though the event itself and the ride with Per was tempting, I decided I needed a little peace and quiet more.

I'm grateful for the invite, though.

Looked through the parts in the suspension bushing kit and everything seems to be there. I wasn't aware that I would get the outer sleeve for the upper control arm bushings. I'm not sure I will be replacing those. Or should I? I'm a little worried I might break something since I don't have a proper press.

I'll need to find someone to turn or mill down my crank pulley. I know of a guy in Alingsås (the one who offered to make me stainless brake pistons for $12 each) but I'd rather find someone not associated with my work.

Also, I need to test fit my magnum exhaust manifolds. I think my steering box will be a problem. What's this rack and pinion I've read about? Is it expensive? Can I get it from another car?

Hi Anders,

Prothane makes the polyurethane uppers without outer shells as snap in hat bushings, with a center sleeve, if you want to leave your original outer shells in the arms

My Dillinger tubular uppers i had John Dillinger make up to use the prothane bushings without the outer shells. These were pretty inexpensive. Prothane PN# 4-202. Just found em on ebay $6.99 set of 4 bushings with washers and inner sleeves. Ebay # 221728404997

Hope this helps
Matt
 
Thanks, Matt!

If my new bushings fit in the old sleeves, I really don't see any reason to replace them. They're not rusty or anything.
 
Thanks, Matt!

If my new bushings fit in the old sleeves, I really don't see any reason to replace them. They're not rusty or anything.

So yours are poly with a seperate outer shell that you have to press in and assemble? I was always under the assumption that the ones with the outer shell were pre assembled and had to be pressed in as one piece.
 
So yours are poly with a seperate outer shell that you have to press in and assemble? I was always under the assumption that the ones with the outer shell were pre assembled and had to be pressed in as one piece.

Sorry for the late reply, Matt. I've been off the grid for a little while.

The ones I have came separated. I haven't opened the bags yet so I don't really know how tight the fit is but a generous amount of mounting grease was included.

Last couple of times I've been down in the basement, I've stared at my suspension parts debating with myself whether I should have them media blasted and powder coated. The paint job on both UCA:s and LCA:s is unsatisfactory to me but not piss poor. There is paint inside the upper ball joint conical seat, something I would NEVER leave there.

I want to "box" the UCA:s, too, and preferably add sway bar tabs so inserting the new bushings really should wait. I'm eager to get the car on its wheels, though, so I can measure up the drive shaft to get it shortened. But maybe I could do that with the car only on its rear wheels? Just lower the front to a reasonable level and put the jack stands close to where the wheels will be?

Would that be close enough?
 
Hi Anders,

Heres the thing, you need to have all or almost all the weight in the car so the rear springs settle to their normal height, then take the driveshaft measurement.

I hear you on the suspension parts. I have a set of tubular UCAs i am needing to bead blast, prime and paint, then assemble.

And i cleaned and bead blasted my sway bar bracketed LCAs, got em set up with weld thru primer, and clamped my LCA boxing plates in place. Now i just have to weld them up.

I have had some issues myself lately and have made a few posts on fabo. I'm not really in car building mode lately. I sent you a PM in regards to this.

Matt
 
This came up on Roadkill's FB page:
http://www.hotrod.com/features/1511-bob-dallys-turbocharged-slant-six-barracuda-land-speed-racer/

There's this picture of the throttle linkage. Me likes. Anyone know what it is? (Full size image)
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1966-plymouth-barracuda-6.jpg
 
Could be Lokar or Bouchillion (spelling?). Are you ditching the 360 for a slant?
 
Could be Lokar or Bouchillion (spelling?). Are you ditching the 360 for a slant?

LOL, no, I just thought the bracket looked great and since it's mounted on a 4bbl Holley it ought to work on mine, too.

The cable looks like Lokar, I looked through their catalog yesterday and couldn't find anything that looks like that. I'll check for Bouchillon (?).
 
This looks a helluva lot like it:
sum-210240.jpg


$70 at Summit.

This doesn't look too bad either ... Trick Flow p/n TFS-20000, $90 at Summit.
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I picked up my crank pulley from the machine shop Wednesday. Looks great! I'l probably need shorter bolts but for now I think I'll put in spacers in stead. SAE Allen bolts don't grow on trees in Sweden ... Let's just hope my measurements and calculations were correct and the pulleys all line up.

Oh, and I got a chance to get a pic of a Postal truck. I really like this hue.
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Oh, and I got a chance to get a pic of a Postal truck. I really like this hue.
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I was a big fan of Richard Petty so I'm all hyped up about those shades of blue you're finding. I don't see many cars painted that color but the ones I do sure pop.
 
I was a big fan of Richard Petty so I'm all hyped up about those shades of blue you're finding. I don't see many cars painted that color but the ones I do sure pop.

They sure do. I think the picture came out a little dark. In real life, it pops even more. The thing is that around here there are three versions of this kind of blue I see most every day: The Postal service, The local public transportation buses and the local recycling/trash trucks.

And then there's the occasional Volvo Polestar R-models.

Plus it's the Smurf blue.

I still like it, though. :)
 
Holy Crap! I never realized Petty's cars were painted Smurf blue!!!!
 
I got it anders,

Google NASCAR baby grand. I think either NASCAR or the SCCA
Started a 5 liter class in 1966. The darts sounded and looked like baby grand national stock cars. That may be a cool direction to go. Race car on the street. Paint a #43 on the side as a what if, and go with it.

My friend here in Abilene is reproducing his dads old stock cars one by one. What he has on his surface plate now is a 68 ford torino fastback body shell, and a brand new holman moody nascar front frame stub. His dad raced a torino talladega 427 4 speed car in ARCA series. He is duplicating that car, and making it street legal, rollcage and all.
 
Baby grand
 

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Alright! Fan belt! Long time coming!
Needed the spacers to get the bolt to reasonably correct length. Only had five bolts so the pulley hangs by three.
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I've been moving at a very slow pace the last couple of weeks. Really haven't been feeling well. Over the last couple of days, though, I've finished setting the car up for first engine start.

I was messing with a couple of Magnum exhaust manifolds I bought but the driver's side one isn't going to work without modification. Good thing is my dad was here a couple of weeks ago and dropped off a set of gas tubes and a bunch of accessories for welding.

I'm thinking of modifying the manifold to work and I've done some YouTube surfing trying to find out how to go about welding that cast iron without screwing it up. Doesn't really seem to that much to it, pre- and post heat and the correct filling rod. What could possibly go wrong? :D

Anyway, I put the original manifolds back on and connected the exhaust I mocked up a few weeks ago. Then I mounted the radiator again. So I thought I was all set to fire her up.

But no.

I got a tip in the coffee thread (thanks, halifaxhops) to put the slip yoke in to avoid transmission fluid leakage. So today I removed the yoke from the drive shaft and cleaned it up a little. Went under the car and ... it doesn't fit. :banghead:. Apparently - I probably read this lots of times on the forum without reflecting on it - the 904 and my 727 have different output shafts.

So now I need a new yoke. When I measure the outgoing shaft I get very close to 32 mm and I count 30 splines. Guess I'd better start asking around. Shouldn't be impossible to find a used one here in Sweden, though.
 

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Not that it will do you any good right now, but I probably have 6 of each style lying around.
 
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