67 Dart Resto w/5.7 hemi

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I was under the impression that the o2 was not used to calculate fuel until closed loop is achieved (engine up to operating temp). It does matter which side the sensor is plugged in. There are pre- catalytic converter sensors that measure O2 before the cat and post sensors that measure after the cat to make sure the cat is doing its job.

They usually refer to them as Bank 1 Sensor 1 (B1S1)
and post cat Bank 1 Sensor 2 (B1S2)
Bank 1 is the side of the motor with cylinder 1. I have no experience with this particular system however, and could be completely off base. Thought I'd share. Love your build, and look forward to seeing it burn rubber.
 
While I dont understand the whole process, you either run 1 O2 for the 03' computers and 2 for 04 and up. There are actully 4 O2 sensors from the factory. If you need more info call Street&Performance here is their website hotrodlane.cc, check em out.
 
Your car is looking sweet....I love the post cars and you don't see a lot of high end builds on them usually so kudos.

Also love the color....looks a bit darker than factory sublime? Or is that the camera.

Keep on rockin in.

Mop
 
Well yesterday was the first day I can get out there and work on the car. We removed the throttle body and put in the one from my buddies truck. Turnes out that the same proble persist. I am stuck. I beleive that the problem might be timing and the cam. There is another guy that has a predator and we are trying to get a hold of him so we can use it and change the timing and program inn the cam and see if it will change the problem. If any of you have any suggestions let me know. Thanks for looking out. I am trying all I can to get this baby on the road for that bunout.
 
What does it do/not do at idle? If it is rough, pull 1 O2 sensor at a time, this should clear up the idle and purr like a kitten, IF you are using an 03 computer only. Do you have the grounds as follows, batt. to frame, block to frame, if not, make it so. I put 1 ground from the batt. to frame and on each side of the motor to frame, then a ground strap on the back of the heads, that is a factory thing. Do you have 58 psi to the injectors and a return line from the regulator? Are the injectors clean? I can get a set of SRT8 injectors for 215 shipped to you, brand new srill on the fuel rail if you find a or some bad injectors. Please tell me how the engine runs after you check/do all these.
 
It could also be the wiring harness, check out hotrodlane.cc, they have a wiring harness that is plug and play, no problems with what I got from them.
 
Sorry Guys. I have been trying different things and nothing has worked. I replaced the map sensor and it kind of worked a little but it still stalled at the end. I was wondering if they make one for a vehicle with a bigger cam because the air flow in the intake is less and it would probably read it differently. I am waiting for my friend to bring his predator programer and see if I do some tweeking and fix the problem with it. It is the only hope right now. 5.7 I got your message and will be calling you.
 
The MAP sensors are the same for the truck and car 5.7 up to a certain year,09 I think is what they will interchange to, beyond that I couldn't say for certain. Have you done anything that I have recomended?
 
Lime, talk to me, what's going on?
 
Hey Lime, on your search engine type in Rammin Cammin Hemi, this ahs some info you may need.
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Also try hhp.com, they have some good tunes for the computer.
 
Did you get any closer to having it purr?
 
Hey Lime, I know you are pretty busy with your gremlins, but when you get a chance, when you look at your car from the side, does the oil pan and trans pan hang down about the same amount?
 
My oil pan and trans pan are damn near even, also even with the k frame. Lime, how goes the engine gremlins?
 
Hey Lime, I know you are pretty busy with your gremlins, but when you get a chance, when you look at your car from the side, does the oil pan and trans pan hang down about the same amount?
Yes they do. Just about even. If you look at page 8 you can see both. Is yours about even also? As a matter of fact it is arround 1" below the k-frame.
As for the car purring not yet. I was able to remove the cap that I installed on the intake vacum holes off and noticed that it iddled then. But it is running too rich now because it has so much air that it has to compensate with the fuel. I also noticed that the battery seems to be bad and was told that if the battery does not hold a charge and there is less than 10 volts the vehicle will shut down and will not program right if the computer is plugged in it. So off I go to buy a battery today and we will try it again and see what happens. I will keep you guys posted.
 
Well just got back from working on the car. For starts we installed a new 1,000 cold cranking amp battery. As I cranked the car it started right up and held idle for like 2 minutes and then stalled. Now the starter started to act up so it will have to be replaced. I will tell you it never ends. So we hit the starter with the hammer and got it started up. This time it ran for eight minutes and then stalled. Any sugestions at this point would be appreciated. I am thinking about replacing the map sensor. What do you guys think? Common guys help!!!!!!
 
Do you have 58 psi at the injector rail?
Are your injectors clean?
Since you redid the engine, cam, you will need bigger injectors, I recommend the factory SRT8 injectors--they just plug and play.
After all this, I'm coming up with nadda else to try, anyone got ANY ideas?
 

I got the fuel preasure at 60 psi. As far as the injectos they are working fine. We checked them one by one. They were also cleaned with an injector cleaner. Fuel is getting to the car as a matter of fact it is running real rich. So I am in the same boat at this time. I dont have too much more I can check as far as the problem. We will see wht happens. Thanks
 
Stupid question, but hoe do you have the starter wired up? Do you have the 8 gauge wire from the back of the alt. going to the starter post? My wire from the alt. to the starter came off when I was trying to tighten the nut on the starter post and it would not charge and then the idle went to crap. Took me about a month to figure out what happened. I tell you, having only 1 eye has it's draw backs. Oh, I'm serious about the 1 eye thing, disabled vet of the persian gulf war,1991 only 19 when it happened.
 
I have everything separate to avoid the same problem. I have the alternator wire going dirrectly to the battery and from the battery to the starter. That is not the problem. I got a hold of Mike from KRC Performance and was able to explain the problem I was having and it turns out that the Cam that I installed is Big and it is creating less vacum and that is why it is idleling the way it is. He stated that he is able to program a predator for me to be able to reduce the amount of fuel and get it to idle but then I am limited to what I can do. So I have made a decision of swapping the computer out to an '05 and ordered the harness from Hotwire and then I will be able to make any changes overall to improve the performance of the engine and tranny. As you know the '03 is limited to what the programer can do and we dont beleive that Diablo Predator is going to come out with the program to perform what the '05 can do. So I have two weeks to wait for the harness. I will order also a Predator for an '05 and that should solve the problem. Mike will also program it so it can work the way it should. So I guess it is time to wait. What can I say. I just want to get this overwith.
 
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