68 4-door "Sleeper"

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Awsoms build. I have a 69(In my avatar) Im thinking about a 5.7 swap later on down the road. By the way if you still have the header and crome valve cover for the slant i would be interested.How much shipped to 40165. Thanks and keep up the good work.
 
you coud always cut the throttle cable bracket down....


youd think for what you spent on the XV stuff that you wouldnt have these problems.

I may get a shorter air cleaner extension but, I have to get everything else set up to determine where to cut.

Also, I agree with you on the XV stuff. There are NO instructions at all. The oil filler was obviously an afterthought.

If you look at the picture on their site, the one that you think that you are getting is NOTHING like what you get. (picture below)
XVInduct01_1024.jpg
 
Today, I painted the engine compartment. I have always like metallic/pearl blue ever since I saw the Cobra on the Gumball Rally movie. I had a Neon SRT-4 for a few years and, I loved the color. Anyway, as I said in a previous post, I am painting the engine compartment, door jams, trunk and any other place that is difficult to polish, with single-stage urethane paint. I used BASF cheapo line of paint, LIMCO for the engine compartment.'
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I agree with that blue that you used. Perfect! That orange hemi is going to look stunning in there. Keep it up.:cheers:
 
That blue looks awesome! That hemi is really gonna POP in there!
 
Glad I found this thread...totally in awe of this build. Will be following closely, Great job!
 
I did some painting today. First, I mixed up some single stage black urethane paint and painted the front of the radiator support. I didn't want the blue to show through when I put the grill on. I also painted the wiper motor and some other parts that I sandblasted.
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While waiting on the paint to cure, I started working on the dash. I got it all stripped down.
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My inspiration for the dash is from another thread (I can't remember where it is). But, I plan on doing something similar to this picture below.
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Holy crap. You are really going all out on this project, not that I ever doubted you would. Awesome work and keep posting those pics.
 
Blue and Orange, one of my favorite color combos.....Think GI action figure Alley vipers from the original toy line.
 
It's been a while, so I thought I would update. Progress has been slow due to the holidays, snow days, and tax season. But, I did manage to do a few things.

First off, it was difficult to find a PCV valve to fit into the XV manifold. I finally found one. It is a little bit blurry, but the part number is V407. It threads in, but you have to take off the fuel rail to do it.
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My wiring harness came in. I opted for the Ron Francis harness after doing a lot of research.
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I also managed to install the AlterKtion K frame and the Wilwood disk brakes. I don't know if they weren't included or if I lost them, but I didn't have the nuts that held the hub to the spindle. Luckily, I was able to find them on at www.trailerparts.com.
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I discovered another problem with the brakes. If I try to mount the brake line into the existing mount, it will hit the A-Frame.
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You can see it here, too.
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I decided to fabricate a new bracket for the brake line. I cut a piece of sheet metal and drilled a 5/8th inch hole to accomodate the brake line.
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Here is what it looks like. Now all I have to do is weld it to the frame.
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I will have to mount it a little bit lower than the factory one. Otherwise, the brake line will get kinked on a hard turn.
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Another problem I discovered while working on the interior was a rust problem on the drivers-side vent. I will have to weld in some sheet metal or else water will get into the car. I will add that to the to-do list. Luckily, the passengers-side vent is OK.
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great build, I haven't seen a power rack and pinion used with alterkation K frame before. most people go with a manual rack, which I wouldn't like. great job
 
I welded the brake hose brackets to the frame. I don't think I will have any interference problems with the brake line and the upper A-frame, now.
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I will coat it with some black Rustoleum to prevent rust.


I bought some front tires today for my 15 inch by 7 inch wide Wheel Vintique wheels. To keep it with the "sleeper" theme, I wanted to give it a "factory" look. For the front, I am using 215/65-15 tires. I will probably go wider on the back, but I will worry about that when I get to working on the rear end.
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One of the center caps did not come with any self-tapping screws. Rather than send it back or complain, I thought it would be easier to just tap it and use some screws that I had laying around.
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I am at a point where I don't know what to do next.

I think I am going to put in the engine (temporarily) to see what kind of clearances that I have. I am worried about:
  1. The brake booster. Will I be able to have one?
  2. Should I install the steering column and linkage BEFORE installing the engine? (Sort of leave them flopping)
  3. When do I install the headers? Should I finger-tighten them and put them in with the engine?
  4. Should I install the the steering column before or after I install the headers?
  5. Where is the best place to run the wiring to give the engine compartment a clean uncluttered look?
  6. Where can I "hide" the brake lines, so that they aren't so obvious when looking under the hood?

I never thought I would look forward to body work. :sad:
 
I just ran into this thread.. dude that car is gonna be a blast to cruise in.. I totally love sleepers.. awesome build..
 
I just ran into this thread.. dude that car is gonna be a blast to cruise in.. I totally love sleepers.. awesome build..





Thank you. I hope it is. What a job, though. Whew!



I have several projects going on at once. While I am waiting on parts, or waiting on paint to dry. I move to a different project.



Anyway, I started working on the steering and the brake lines. First, I removed the slip joint.

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The pin is really pressed in. There is no way you could remove the pin without taking out the steering column. I put a socket on one side and pressed it out most of the way in a vise.
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I was able to get it the rest of the way with a punch.
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Next, I installed the Flaming River U-Joint by reinserting the pin.
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I pressed it in most of the way in the vise and used a punch to center it.
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I discovered that the turn signal return was broken and wouldn't return to the "off" position. So, I ordered a new turn signal switch. I also started painting the steering column. I am going to go with a black interior. Black matches everything.

While waiting on paint to dry and parts to come in, I started working on the brake lines. I bought an adjustable proportioning valve from Summit. (It looks EXACTLY like the SSBC proportioning valve). I marked the frame where I am installing it with a punch. Then, I drilled and tapped threads into the frame.
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I also bought a Summit Line Lock. I just bought it because I thought it would be cool. I may not use it often since I don't plan on drag racing, but I like the idea of knowing that I have it... just in case. I drilled and tapped the frame for this, too. I am mounting everything low so that the engine bay will have a clean, uncluttered look.
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I also routed the brake lines as concealed as possible by running it along the top of the transmission tunnel along the pinch weld. (Check out the 50 year old Craftsman drill on the floor.)
SDC10713.JPG


I will post more progress pics as more progress takes place.
 
Thank you. I hope it is. What a job, though. Whew!



I have several projects going on at once. While I am waiting on parts, or waiting on paint to dry. I move to a different project.



Anyway, I started working on the steering and the brake lines. First, I removed the slip joint.

SDC10698.JPG


The pin is really pressed in. There is no way you could remove the pin without taking out the steering column. I put a socket on one side and pressed it out most of the way in a vise.
SDC10701.JPG


I was able to get it the rest of the way with a punch.
SDC10703.JPG


Next, I installed the Flaming River U-Joint by reinserting the pin.
SDC10704.JPG


I pressed it in most of the way in the vise and used a punch to center it.
SDC10707.JPG


I discovered that the turn signal return was broken and wouldn't return to the "off" position. So, I ordered a new turn signal switch. I also started painting the steering column. I am going to go with a black interior. Black matches everything.

While waiting on paint to dry and parts to come in, I started working on the brake lines. I bought an adjustable proportioning valve from Summit. (It looks EXACTLY like the SSBC proportioning valve). I marked the frame where I am installing it with a punch. Then, I drilled and tapped threads into the frame.
SDC10710.JPG


I also bought a Summit Line Lock. I just bought it because I thought it would be cool. I may not use it often since I don't plan on drag racing, but I like the idea of knowing that I have it... just in case. I drilled and tapped the frame for this, too. I am mounting everything low so that the engine bay will have a clean, uncluttered look.
SDC10712.JPG


I also routed the brake lines as concealed as possible by running it along the top of the transmission tunnel along the pinch weld. (Check out the 50 year old Craftsman drill on the floor.)
SDC10713.JPG


I will post more progress pics as more progress takes place.
>Great pictures and progress. It looks like your steering link is on "top" of the steering arm ? I suspect this angle will generate "bump steer". I think it's supposed to match the angle of the lca. ? Good Luck, ateam.:)
 
I see in your pic you have a wiring harness drapped over the 5.7 Hemi but you quote in your future expenses that a MOPAR harness is $4500. If you cant use this one on the engine cant you just get another junkyard harness and ECM? I would really hate to see you spend that kind of money on a harness when there maybe a few other options.

Great buiild though, I was toying around with a 5.7 Hemi daily driver as my next project. In a A-body of course!!
 
sweet ride im new to this site havent loaded any pics yet to busy working on it lol. I have a 69 valiant 100 4 door sleeper im working on as well. Iam currently in the metal restoration stage also and trying to plan my suspension undecided on what to go with with exhaust clearance and good street handling any ideas Hotchkis or FFi etc. I also am curious on how to remove the drip rail without damage. It adds up quick but it will be sweet.
 
sweet ride im new to this site havent loaded any pics yet to busy working on it lol. I have a 69 valiant 100 4 door sleeper im working on as well. Iam currently in the metal restoration stage also and trying to plan my suspension undecided on what to go with with exhaust clearance and good street handling any ideas Hotchkis or FFi etc. I also am curious on how to remove the drip rail without damage. It adds up quick but it will be sweet.

I love the thoroughness with which you prosecute all the different aspects of this build. It's going to be an awesome finished product!!!

My "quick and dirty" approach is what you do if you don't have a lot of money to spend, nor the limitless energy of youth (I'm 72, and on a retirement "fixed" income that wasn't "fixed" very well.)

My car is a '72 Valiant 4-door, stock appearing, with a Vortech supercharged 1998 Durango 360 Magnum that is attached to a 904 T-Flite and a 4.10 ratio 8.75" rear end. It runs mid 11's at 118 mph in the quarter.

Fast enough for an old man... :cheers:

I built it before I realized what a GREAT engine a turbocharged slant six is... Tom Wolfe (Shaker 223 on Fabo) has a '70 Dart Swinger with a street-driven turbo slant six that runs 11-flat in the quarter at 120+ mph, with a 2.76 rear end... with a VERY mild cam (220/220 duration @ .050" lift) and as a result, has excellent driveability. That 120 mph was run into a 15 mph headwind.... 500+ HP there (3,300-pound car.)

It makes more HP than my supercharged 360 V8...

Wow, I coulda had an inline six! LOL!

Maybe next time...:read2:

Your car is WAAAAAAY cool!!! I can't wait to see it when it's done!
 

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You know Bill, that 4 door of yours does something to me!
I just love the sleeper look.
The 4 doors always had my heart from when i was young.
I'm gonna build one one day.
 
Beautifu ride, cool idea! You DO realize if you plan to drag race this car, the brake lines along the firewall are illegal & probably won't pass tech? Other than that I'm jealous..............
 
Beautifu ride, cool idea! You DO realize if you plan to drag race this car, the brake lines along the firewall are illegal & probably won't pass tech? Other than that I'm jealous..............

Well, with a plastic fuel cell in the trunk, and all that non NHRA-approved push-on hose, the firewall-mounted brake lines are just one more thing that needs to be addressed from a "tech" sort of view, but the fact is, the drag strips on this backward state are all independent, non-sanctioned strips that are a lot more interested in grabbing your entry fee than they are in enforcing NHRA safety rules, so after running the car at 2 of them, nobody at any of them has noticed those "rules infractions" at all. I don't have an external battery shutoff, either. I built is as a street car, and that's its main focus; I don't get to the strip that often, anyway.
Thanks a lot for your comments; I really appreciate the kind words!!!!:grin:

My car is just a "rat rod" compared to the one that is the subject of this thread; he's doing everything like I SHOULD have done it... amazing attention to detail!!!! ~I'M~ "jealous!!!! And, rightfully so. That car he's building makes mine look like a pile of junk...

Bill
 

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Just subscribed...Sweet Sleeper gonna out run mine by 1/8 mile in 1/4 mile run.
TXDart
 

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You know Bill, that 4 door of yours does something to me!
I just love the sleeper look.
The 4 doors always had my heart from when i was young.
I'm gonna build one one day.



I'll be honest; I only bought this thing because I got it (rust free) for $100.00.

It only weighs 17 pounds more than a Duster of the same year, so I thought, "Why not???":study:

Glad you like it; thanks for the kind words!! !
 
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