72 Duster 392/ 8hp70 Build

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well when i get the rear end pulled ill let you know. i dont feel like dealing with tryin to sell stuff these days. such a pain
i like it man! happy to come help you hustle that thing out if you need another set of hands.

also if you haven't pulled the trigger on brakes yet, hit me up.
 
i cant wait. my buddy thats gonna tune it is the one who told me to go with the 8hp. i kinda wanna figure out a wat to do paddle shifters but without having wiring hanging down.
I cut the centre out of an old dodge wheel & machined it to fit a scat pack wheel still have to make a circuit board for the clock spring so i can use the paddle wheel shifters with the sound German controller & maybe blank off some of the extra controls currently i am selecting performance & track mode with the digital dash switches but i will make a plate the for the square gear indicator with a 3 position rotary switch beside it. Also had to remove the airbag & a pic of my modified steering coupler off a Landcruiser

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I cut the centre out of an old dodge wheel & machined it to fit a scat pack wheel still have to make a circuit board for the clock spring so i can use the paddle wheel shifters with the sound German controller & maybe blank off some of the extra controls currently i am selecting performance & track mode with the digital dash switches but i will make a plate the for the square gear indicator with a 3 position rotary switch beside it. Also had to remove the airbag & a pic of my modified steering coupler off a Landcruiser

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Please elaborate on the steering wheel swap. Did you keep the stock A-Body column?
 

B Body the column is stock at the engine end there was a weld so i machined that off & used a slide hammer to pull the short end shaft out the strange thing was the Dodge spline in the hollow shaft is the exactly same as a Toyota spline from 50 years later also the Borgenson was originally a Nissan or Toyota box Borgenson modified on the 1st edition so i knocked the shaft back in & tig welded it passed the inspection by the DOT engineer i did not take pics as i made it more of if it fits it fits.
 
im kinda thinking of this wheel. maybe in a 17 or 18 by 9.5 or so. i wanted these wheels for my truck but they didnt have the bolt pattern so ended up buying a different model of theirs. think they might look decent on the duster.

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what are your guys thoughts on aftermarket body panels? im gonna need fenders and at least one 1/4 panel. possibly a tail panel. ive heard good and bad on them. i found another cheap 72 (well they say it is) that im almost thinking of buying for panels and other parts but they only have 1 pic posted of it. i havent messaged them yet. also dont really have the room but i think i can make some for a little while. hell if its cleaner than mine i might just throw everything in that one. looks like it had a partial vinyl top which kinda scares me.



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I just fitted amd full quarter to my drivers side and lower quarter to passengers side. Fiited perfectly with a little bit of additional work, nothing crazy.
I actually fitted the quarter windows and they fit as good as they did with the original quarters.
The panels are dirt cheap as well and take up less space thana 2nd car lol
 
I just fitted amd full quarter to my drivers side and lower quarter to passengers side. Fiited perfectly with a little bit of additional work, nothing crazy.
I actually fitted the quarter windows and they fit as good as they did with the original quarters.
The panels are dirt cheap as well and take up less space thana 2nd car lol
i hear ya. i just dunno if i trust my skills with trying to replace the quarters myself. i feel like ill mess it up and then end up having to pay double to have someone do them correctly. already asked one of my body guys and he said $2k to replace a 1/4 panel. ive been watching this one guys vides and theyre pretty informative and his way of doing it doesnt seem too bad. my problem is im doing all this in a driveway with no cover and very limited space. also i noticed the other day my passenger b "B" pillar/ door jamb area has a decent crunch in it.

i was thinking about getting the other car cause mine was a gutted shell and its been kind a pain finding some of these parts at reasonable prices. if that one has less 1/4 damage and stuff than mine then id prefer to have something a little nicer to start off with. either way i messaged them and they didnt havent even looked at the message so well see.

this is the guy ive been watching ( this is the shorter version, he does a 3 part that has a bit more detail):

 
ah so you trimmed off all those little extension things hanging off the side of the trans? theres soo many and some stick out kinda far. i might have to trim some of those off too. im either goin to buy a universal tunnel kit or i was kinda thinking of getting some steel rods and shape out how i want the tunnel then fill in the spots with some 16g steel plate.
The 4 large protrusions are for a jig the mounts the transmission in a vice for servicing. I havn't been able to determine what the large protrusions at top rear are for. I suspect they are for use in one or more European cars but not needed for Mopars. The vent at the top of the trans has to go, there is a kit available to make the vent horizontal rather than verticle. Some of the wire loom bosses need to go but dont worry to much about the ones near the front of the trans. It looks like the bosses for the neutral cable can stay but mat need to be cut down a little.

All in all the tunnel mod was easier than I thought it may be.

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so i can pretty much trim all the parts with red lines through them?

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Based on my fit up, the front boss on the right side may be able to stay. Don't know what the rear thing is but loked like it may be low enough to not interfere. On the left the bosses for a transmission jig can go. Not sure what the boss closer to the centerline is but on mine there are 2 bosses in that general area for the neutral cable. I'm leaving them for now but there may not be enough room for the neutral cable mechanism. If not I will reduce the length of those bosses. Also just left of center ther is a verticle vent connection that had to be removed on mine. It will be replaced with a vent kit that provides a plug for where the vent nipple is as well as a new nipple that gets inserted into a hole that needs to be drilled in the back of the boss. The kit also includes tubing and a filter. https://www.turbolamik.us/8hp-accessories/8hp-breather-mod-kit/

Your transmission looks a lot gifferent than mine at the back. What is it?
 
Based on my fit up, the front boss on the right side may be able to stay. Don't know what the rear thing is but loked like it may be low enough to not interfere. On the left the bosses for a transmission jig can go. Not sure what the boss closer to the centerline is but on mine there are 2 bosses in that general area for the neutral cable. I'm leaving them for now but there may not be enough room for the neutral cable mechanism. If not I will reduce the length of those bosses. Also just left of center ther is a verticle vent connection that had to be removed on mine. It will be replaced with a vent kit that provides a plug for where the vent nipple is as well as a new nipple that gets inserted into a hole that needs to be drilled in the back of the boss. The kit also includes tubing and a filter. https://www.turbolamik.us/8hp-accessories/8hp-breather-mod-kit/

Your transmission looks a lot gifferent than mine at the back. What is it?
yeah im looking into which park release i wanna get or might have a idea to build my own.

my trans is from a 2014 ram. that may be why its different.

its weird, when i click on that link you shared it just brings up my build page.
 
8HP Breather-mod kit

Not sure how I pulled off the magical computer feat:lol:. Hopefully the link works this time, If not just search for turbolamik.us. The kit was on back order when I last communicated with them a couple weeks ago.
i ended up finding it and ordering it. thanx. also order the trans cooler line adapter thing and some lines. just gotta figure out what trans cooler to get that works with 8an lines.
 
this weekend i got the passenger front floor board fully welded and sealed up, just need passenger rear section but ran out of gas. got my fuel system stuff from evil energy. finally installed the fuel pump and fuel level stuff into tank. cut all the extra tabs off the trans (man the trans looks soo much skinnier now lol). tested the sienna EPAS then bolted it up to the column. i think it might work. ill have to make some brackets to hold the back part of it and figure out all the steering shaft stuff but ill have tilt and telescopic. (thats not the wheel im using in the pics). ordered up a few more parts. gonna order the HDK trans crossmember. i think im gonna get some steel rod and build out the trans tunnel real tight to the trans then plate it in.

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Happy Thanksgiving everyone. after i had some food i got some stuff done.

some parts came in. new radiator and shroud and a under dash a/c unit box.
got the box all mounted up under the dash. i think there should be enough room to run the ducts. im going to mount it up top with some rivnuts after i pull the dash out again.

also got the rear end pulled out of the car. so if @junkyardhero wants to come pick that and the front suspension stuff up maybe sometime next week (going to AZ for the weekend). then let me know. i think i need to pull the shock mounts off first though.

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also got the rear end pulled out of the car. so if @junkyardhero wants to come pick that and the front suspension stuff up maybe sometime next week (going to AZ for the weekend). then let me know. i think i need to pull the shock mounts off first though.

lookin' good my man!

is that the previa column with EPAS you were talking about?

gimme a shout when you're back in town and i'll cruise by. btw, the 7.25 shock plates don't work for 8.25 or 8.75 rears, much smaller diameter tube and u-bolts.
 
lookin' good my man!

is that the previa column with EPAS you were talking about?

gimme a shout when you're back in town and i'll cruise by. btw, the 7.25 shock plates don't work for 8.25 or 8.75 rears, much smaller diameter tube and u-bolts.
its a toyota sienna epas/

i should be back sometime early monday. have a doctors apt at 3:30 so maybe before that or after. if not ill be home all day tuesday too.

im doing a ford explorer 8.8 but apparently theyre too small for that too. lol
 
Would you share which Heat/AC box you went with? And how do you like it so far? Looks good from the pictures.

Cley
 
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