74 Duster, resto mod 6.4 conversion in Australia

[DionR]

Same i need to put the box in to get the angle correct, i cant fit the drivers side header either as hits the strut tower, think ill get the top pipe modified to hug the head more.

The instructions say the header has to go on before the motor is dropped in. At the same time, I discovered last week that I can get the header out through the bottom if I pull the manual steering box at the same time. As in, they have to both be loose and move kind of as a unit. Without a bellhousing, it would be even easier. But I really doubt the Borgenson box would work the same, but haven't tried it. Either way, sounds like you are trying to get them in after dropping the motor in and that probably won't work from the top.

 

[DionR]

Looks like the alternator I tested was an 180 amp one, so already on the smaller side. There are 150 and 160 amp options though.

 

[Ozyduster]

The instructions say the header has to go on before the motor is dropped in. At the same time, I discovered last week that I can get the header out through the bottom if I pull the manual steering box at the same time. As in, they have to both be loose and move kind of as a unit. Without a bellhousing, it would be even easier. But I really doubt the Borgenson box would work the same, but haven't tried it. Either way, sounds like you are trying to get them in after dropping the motor in and that probably won't work from the top.

I have the passanger side on and with the drivers side on i couldnt get the engine in from the bottom. I removed drivers side and have got it up through where the steering box is. However it hits the strut tower when its 99% located. My instructions say to fit without the drivers pipes on, and to fit once in position

 

[Ozyduster]

Looks like the alternator I tested was an 180 amp one, so already on the smaller side. There are 150 and 160 amp options though.

so is the 160amp that fits the 6.4 physicaly smaller?

 

[DionR]

I have the passanger side on and with the drivers side on i couldnt get the engine in from the bottom. I removed drivers side and have got it up through where the steering box is. However it hits the strut tower when its 99% located. My instructions say to fit without the drivers pipes on, and to fit once in position

Interesting. Here's what I have.

so is the 160amp that fits the 6.4 physicaly smaller?

No promises it is smaller, I only know there are lower amp options. Generally, it seems like a smaller amp alternator using a smaller housing, but no idea if that is the case as I haven't compared them myself.

 

[Ozyduster]

@408 swinger what master cylinder set up did you run with your hemi? As want to order master cylinder but not 100% on the correct one and if need offset for a 7 inch etc

 

[408 swinger]

@408 swinger what master cylinder set up did you run with your hemi? As want to order master cylinder but not 100% on the correct one and if need offset for a 7 inch etc

On the Scamp, I used the factory iron one in stock location. Very tight fit. On the Swinger, the Mopar aluminum with adaptor. Stock location. A little more room with that one. Both used as manual setup.

 

[AUSA66]

You could probaly mill a bit off the timing cover bosses to get it closer to the engine

 

[Ozyduster]

You could probaly mill a bit off the timing cover bosses to get it closer to the engine

You read my mind i actually have thought of doing this as cant be that much pressure on the alternator from belt so taking some meat off the mounting point couldn't hurt. The belt is self tensiones so wouldn't think the amount you are moving it would stuff up the tension

 

[Ozyduster]

Think i will go the 90 degree oil filter adapter rather than a relocate kit for neatness, not a cheap option but at this point the build cost is trivial.

Also i will be running the 904 what starter motor will work without fitment issues etc?

 

[AUSA66]

I used a 727 with a Hemi to 727 flex plate & holeshot 2800 with a standard 727 starter i think 904 would be the same Mancini has the dual purpose plate 904/727 not sure how close the starter is to the headers.
Fitted an 8hp70 now love it it was worth the messing around.
Used to angled oil filter adaptor although the filter is tiny (so it doesnt hit the K frame )never had any pressure issues

 

[Ozyduster]

I used a 727 with a Hemi to 727 flex plate & holeshot 2800 with a standard 727 starter i think 904 would be the same Mancini has the dual purpose plate 904/727 not sure how close the starter is to the headers.
Fitted an 8hp70 now love it it was worth the messing around.
Used to angled oil filter adaptor although the filter is tiny (so it doesnt hit the K frame )never had any pressure issues

What headers were you using with the 727 and standard starter?

 

[AUSA66]

The Hooker blackheart i think they stopped making them i used the cast iron low profile for licencing with a 2.5" system then refitted the headers with 3"

 

[DionR]

The Hooker blackheart i think they stopped making them i used the cast iron low profile for licencing with a 2.5" system then refitted the headers with 3"

They did stop making them for awhile, but they are listed again for the A-Body. You have to look under exhaust, they won't list them as "engine swap" parts anymore. Price is even close to what I paid for mine before they went up, and in stock.

Did you have to pull the motor to swap the headers on? I installed my PS header after the motor was in, but had to remove the DS header and manual box together. Doesn't look like it could be installed with the motor installed and a steering box bolted up.

 

[AUSA66]

Mines a 72 B body so may be a bit different but header to block should be the same i can change starter by loosing the bolts but PS i must undo header bolts & move to fit drivers side must jack engine about 20mm

 

[DionR]

Mines a 72 B body so may be a bit different but header to block should be the same i can change starter by loosing the bolts but PS i must undo header bolts & move to fit drivers side must jack engine about 20mm

Ah. I assumed an A-Body, my apologize.

And B-Body swap headers are discontinued like you said. Again, I assumed.

 

[Ozyduster]

Ah. I assumed an A-Body, my apologize.

And B-Body swap headers are discontinued like you said. Again, I assumed.

I cant get my drivers side to fit its hitting the tower, did you have the motor all bolted in when you fitted the drivers side?

 

[DionR]

I cant get my drivers side to fit its hitting the tower, did you have the motor all bolted in when you fitted the drivers side?

I bolted the DS header on before I dropped it in. At the same time, I was able to get it out while the motor was bolted in, without moving it. I haven't tried to put it back on though so maybe it is a one way only deal. It was really tight past the bellhousing too.

Not sure it helps, but I went out from the bottom.

My gut says that when I get to the point of putting it all together for real, if I put the motor in from the bottom, it will be with the DS header and steering box all bolted up and missing the PS valve cover to get enough room to get it up into the engine bay. PS header was cake with the motor in, and I don't see it making any difference clearance wise anyways.

 

[Ozyduster]

I bolted the DS header on before I dropped it in. At the same time, I was able to get it out while the motor was bolted in, without moving it. I haven't tried to put it back on though so maybe it is a one way only deal. It was really tight past the bellhousing too.

Not sure it helps, but I went out from the bottom.

My gut says that when I get to the point of putting it all together for real, if I put the motor in from the bottom, it will be with the DS header and steering box all bolted up and missing the PS valve cover to get enough room to get it up into the engine bay. PS header was cake with the motor in, and I don't see it making any difference clearance wise anyways.

Just got my manual steering in the mail so it will be interesting to see how it fits. Think the pipes will fit but they hit coming through the k frame way as shock towers get narrower as you get higher. Clearances will be interesting. 5.7 jeep alternator has heaps of clearance but wrong offset on the pulley so looking into solutions

 

[Ozyduster]

Diff is getting there all shortened and welded back together cant use off the shelf axles and cut so we are getting custom made axles to length. Then fit the ford disks which run the Mopar stud patern. Its my fault as told guy wasnt in a rush and to mechanics that means sit it in a corner and never touch it haha
Staying with the stock gears for now as they were good...... once its running will figure out correct gear. Running the trutrac centre

 

[Ozyduster]

So the jeep 5.7 alternator works a treat for clearance but as we all know the set back is wrong. I will mill the back of the timing chain cover to bring it forward as only out of alignment by around 7mm. But the clearance to rail is great!! Especially when i bent the fold of the rail up

 

[Ozyduster]

Fitted the manual steering box and bolts up perfectly, i need to bolt the 904 up and make sure that the motor is sitting correctly as i still cant fit the pipes in without the top pipe hitting the shock tower.
Once i know its not how the motors sitting ill remove motor and get my fabricator to tighten up the bends in the pipes. Definetly want to be able to leave pipes on the motor when pulling the k frame but currently i cant as they hit.
Then i have to mark everything thats within 10mm of the pipes and make it work to keep engineer happy.
And yes engine is on k frame fitted to car stil on engine stand lol

 

[Ozyduster]

The instructions say the header has to go on before the motor is dropped in. At the same time, I discovered last week that I can get the header out through the bottom if I pull the manual steering box at the same time. As in, they have to both be loose and move kind of as a unit. Without a bellhousing, it would be even easier. But I really doubt the Borgenson box would work the same, but haven't tried it. Either way, sounds like you are trying to get them in after dropping the motor in and that probably won't work from the top.

Just bolted the pipes on with the manual steering, i see what you mean you could get them up and in but would have to put them in at same time not one before the other as the manual steering locks the pipes in. Thank god i have a hoist definetly making a k frame stand as well

The holley pipes fit beautifully around the box they do good work.
However i think the o2 sensors are in a shite position as they touch the rails when fitted unless you can get smaller sensors.

 

[Ozyduster]

I bolted the DS header on before I dropped it in. At the same time, I was able to get it out while the motor was bolted in, without moving it. I haven't tried to put it back on though so maybe it is a one way only deal. It was really tight past the bellhousing too.

Not sure it helps, but I went out from the bottom.

My gut says that when I get to the point of putting it all together for real, if I put the motor in from the bottom, it will be with the DS header and steering box all bolted up and missing the PS valve cover to get enough room to get it up into the engine bay. PS header was cake with the motor in, and I don't see it making any difference clearance wise anyways.

Have you fitted steering column? Any issues about to fit mine and seen few guys having clearance issues to the valve cover. I am using the power steering column with the extender on the manual box. Obviously will need to cut the column shift stuff off the column. Think this will be last piece of the puzzle for motor fitment then to see what lines dont fit and/or need relocating. Think once motor fitted may get the pipes made before i run fuel lines and brake lines

 

[DionR]

Have you fitted steering column? Any issues about to fit mine and seen few guys having clearance issues to the valve cover. I am using the power steering column with the extender on the manual box. Obviously will need to cut the column shift stuff off the column. Think this will be last piece of the puzzle for motor fitment then to see what lines dont fit and/or need relocating. Think once motor fitted may get the pipes made before i run fuel lines and brake lines

I haven’t fit a column in, but I fully expect to have to cut the tube back to the firewall. I have some ideas that I want to try that might mean no tube through the firewall at all, but that is just a foggy idea right now.

The instructions say the factory coupler won’t work, but I did stuff a manual steering shaft and coupler down there to see and didn’t see why it won’t work. Something to be aware of.

Seems like the number I remember is 3” off the column tube. So I would cut 2” off and stuff the whole thing in there and see if the tube clears and if the coupler and extension work and go from there.