74 Duster, resto mod 6.4 conversion in Australia

[HemiDenny]

simple mod for more space and ease install / removal.

HDK replaces the lower portion of the 2-piece shaft with a piece of 1" DD that is held solidly in place by two set screws and a new sturdy bearing. No longer a need to loosen the column once in place

lower section of 3/4" DD slips into the 1" DD and cut with approx 2-2-1/2" into the 1"'DD. The 3/4'' DD shaft will slide easily in / out but is held securely into the 1"DD

use a Borgeson vibration dampener / u-joint to connect to the 3/4" DD shaft to the OEM shaft spline.

the shaft size is now 3/4" solid vs the OEM hollow 1-1/8 od and makes install or taking off or completely out a breeze.

 

[DionR]

simple mod for more space and ease install / removal.

HDK replaces the lower portion of the 2-piece shaft with a piece of 1" DD that is held solidly in place by two set screws and a new sturdy bearing. No longer a need to loosen the column once in place

lower section of 3/4" DD slips into the 1" DD and cut with approx 2-2-1/2" into the 1"'DD. The 3/4'' DD shaft will slide easily in / out but is held securely into the 1"DD

use a Borgeson vibration dampener / u-joint to connect to the 3/4" DD shaft to the OEM shaft spline.

the shaft size is now 3/4" solid vs the OEM hollow 1-1/8 od and makes install or taking off or completely out a breeze.

View attachment 1716466948

View attachment 1716466949

View attachment 1716466950

The idea being that the lower portion becomes the collapsible section in the event of an accident? Or do the upper set screws still slide some if something bad happens?

That's easier than trying to weld the larger slip tube to the stock shaft for sure.

 

[HemiDenny]

The idea being that the lower portion becomes the collapsible section in the event of an accident.....and it makes it super easy to install and remove the lower section without disturbing the upper.

 

[Ozyduster]

The idea being that the lower portion becomes the collapsible section in the event of an accident.....and it makes it super easy to install and remove the lower section without disturbing the upper.

Am i correct in saying that once column is installed the lower shaft can be removed from column? As thats half the issue with the holley system that everytime you want to remove motor you need to remove column
Also i cant find this part for sale anywhere cant see it on the hdk site either. Do you have more pics with it installed etc?

 

[HemiDenny]

Yes, it eliminates loosening or removing the column on 99% of the applications. There is always that one, I better cover my azz on that statement

It is not on my website, maybe I need to add it.

I developed it for my own (Hemi) Duster but sell one to almost everyone that buys a K-package. I make a lot of things that I use on my personal car or customer builds. With small specialty items, by the time I explain its function, answer questions, build it, ....then ship it, I actually loose money on it. I don't mind with a few, especially when it is helping out my FABO friends, but I get enough calls asking for advice on to do things on the cheap, fix my competitors issues and unrelated components.

I will snap a picture when I get to my shop.

 

[Ozyduster]

Yes, it eliminates loosening or removing the column on 99% of the applications. There is always that one, I better cover my azz on that statement

It is not on my website, maybe I need to add it.

I developed it for my own (Hemi) Duster but sell one to almost everyone that buys a K-package. I make a lot of things that I use on my personal car or customer builds. With small specialty items, by the time I explain its function, answer questions, build it, ....then ship it, I actually loose money on it. I don't mind with a few, especially when it is helping out my FABO friends, but I get enough calls asking for advice on to do things on the cheap, fix my competitors issues and unrelated components.

I will snap a picture when I get to my shop.

O hhaha i just realised you are HDK, i literally sent you an email asking about it. Pics would be much appreciated! As currently the cuppler is clashing with my pipes

 

[HemiDenny]

give me a call in a few hours, right now, here is the USA, it's early morning, pre shower, coffee time.

 

[Ozyduster]

give me a call in a few hours, right now, here is the USA, it's early morning, pre shower, coffee time.

Ill see if i can in the morning as its midnight here haha

 

[HemiDenny]

ooops, forgot to get a picture today. I will try first thing in the morning.

 

[Ozyduster]

ooops, forgot to get a picture today. I will try first thing in the morning.

Thanks mate much apreciated

 

[Ozyduster]

ooops, forgot to get a picture today. I will try first thing in the morning.

Do you currently have any of these items for sale? As very keen. How does it eliminate the need to loosen and remove column? Are you saying you can remove it whilst column is still in the car?
Appreciate the feedback, sorry its hard to call due to the time difference.

 

[HemiDenny]

In stock.

The shaft to the u-joint or vibration dampener is now 3 pieces

1)OEM upper
2)HDK 1" DD intermediate (cut to length)

Those stay solidly in the car.

3) HDK lower shaft the slides into 1" and attachesto the u-joint or on an OEM application, the vibration dampener. Because it can slip upward, this section is easily removable

Comes with bearing for your cut down 2" id column.

Pictured is my first version , the bearing is recessed. Just the 1" (black) is protruding into the engine compartment.

 

[Ozyduster]

In stock.

The shaft to the u-joint or vibration dampener is now 3 pieces

1)OEM upper
2)HDK 1" DD intermediate (cut to length)

Those stay solidly in the car.

3) HDK lower shaft the slides into 1" and attachesto the u-joint or on an OEM application, the vibration dampener. Because it can slip upward, this section is easily removable

Comes with bearing for your cut down 2" id column.

Pictured is my first version , the bearing is recessed. Just the 1" (black) is protruding into the engine compartment.

View attachment 1716467552

View attachment 1716467553

looks like a winner how do i purchase one mate

 

[HemiDenny]

I will need your complete shipping address for shipping quote. I'm guessing $45-$50???.

I can bill your credit card, maybe PM me since the time zones make it difficult.

 

[Ozyduster]

In process of gathering all my suspension bolts etc to take to the plater to get them zink plated etc. And whatever items need to go to powder coaters like lower arms etc. Have a whole PST front end rebuild kit and thought ill get the upper arms ready to powder coat so can get the bushes in and back on car.
The threads looked funny and yep, removing the upper balljoint has cooked the threads, needed a 6ft bar extension to undo them.
Tried a new upper bush in and just drops through the thread.
Not sure if thats a common thing to happen undoing a upper bush
See in the pic that the threads have lost their teeth. Think ill just get new Dr Diff pressed ones as the engineer isnt a fan of tubular as they are not rated and have mixed reviews from people in the know

 

[Bewy]

They never had properly formed teeth. The idea was to make the thread an interference fit so that they did not loosen up from the pounding they got in operation.

 

[Ozyduster]

They never had properly formed teeth. The idea was to make the thread an interference fit so that they did not loosen up from the pounding they got in operation.

Interesting one of them grabs and the other one the ball joint just slips through.

 

[AUSA66]

Had the same problem the Bushes were about a 1mm smaller than the original cheap chinese copy threw them in the bin used Moog had to tighten them with a 2 foot bar

 

[Ozyduster]

Had the same problem the Bushes were about a 1mm smaller than the original cheap chinese copy threw them in the bin used Moog had to tighten them with a 2 foot bar

I am trying to find new upper arms but all the new pressed ones look to have bad reviews and issues. Dr diff no longer sells pressed uppers due to quality issues

 

[AUSA66]

Same here i bought a new set when they arrived i found the ball joint was so loose they spot welded it in first bump they would have shot out ended up sand blasting the old ones.
That thread look's about normal ,when i pressed the new rbber bushes in it took about 1 ton on the press.If they are too loose they will turn in the arm also make sure the arm is loaded before tightening the adjuster bolts & the lower main support pin

 

[Ozyduster]

Same here i bought a new set when they arrived i found the ball joint was so loose they spot welded it in first bump they would have shot out ended up sand blasting the old ones.
That thread look's about normal ,when i pressed the new rbber bushes in it took about 1 ton on the press.If they are too loose they will turn in the arm also make sure the arm is loaded before tightening the adjuster bolts & the lower main support pin

Yep seen you have to tension most of the bushings when loaded or will rip the rubber unless its a poly bushing. My issue is one of the arms the balljoint doesnt grab at all. Engineers here dont like tubular as no certs so may need to just buy old arms

 

[AUSA66]

I don't like the tubular the end on the firm feel is butt welded onto the large bar looks like it would need a lot to tear off.
Just called my mate Bill he has 13 cars & couple of Barracuda's he said he has a big box of old arms said a & B body are all the same.
I know my 72 B body & E body are the same bar don't know about the A body.

 

[Bewy]

Have you tried Summit for a repro? There are places here like Hemi Perf in Qld that might have them....or know somebody that does.

 

[Ozyduster]

I don't like the tubular the end on the firm feel is butt welded onto the large bar looks like it would need a lot to tear off.
Just called my mate Bill he has 13 cars & couple of Barracuda's he said he has a big box of old arms said a & B body are all the same.
I know my 72 B body & E body are the same bar don't know about the A body.

Pretty sure B body are different to the a body arm as they run a different ball joint. My a body arms are the big ball joint tho. The QA1 arms are very similar to the firm feel. Just not sure if my engineer will pass

 

[Ozyduster]

Have you tried Summit for a repro? There are places here like Hemi Perf in Qld that might have them....or know somebody that does.

Yea thats not a bad idea i may reach out to hemi performance. I have been told the pressed new arms are hit and miss, often balljoints dont fit, come spot welded to ball joints etc. Thats why Dr Diff doesn't stock them anymore.
I could buy new sleeves and have my fabricator fit them to my arms worst case scenario.