906 Head shop

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good numbers for the leak down experienced.

The most flow I have got out of a 906 head using the stock replace 2.08 valves and with no valve job 'just a used lapped in stock seat' so far is 278 cfm.
I have only done one port, no.3 I think it was.

My suspicion ....was that my calibration was off, and it was....hence the re test and finding of 278 cfm.

It seemed a lil too good to be true so I had to ask others ;)
 
That's a good port, 278cfm @ .500" is right up there with the very best of them.
 
Why mess with the heavy iron heads? You can't give em away on EBAY
Why not just buy a pair of good Source440 heads that flow out of the box and go racing and save some money and weight. $1000 bucks and thats cheaper than bigger valves , po rting and polishing the old iron heads????
I put my 906 heads on my coronet wagon and she runs good.

DAMMIT MAN for the LOVE OF A GOD
 
I really do not see an issue with building what ya got and since you have them all ready, that is less money spent? Should the head not fit the bill of the build, ET/speed wise, then another head maybe in order.

Back cutting the valves on a multi angle valve job and a porting job costs more than new heads? Flow numbers aren't everything nor is ultimate power out of the heads being used. Sometimes a simple upgrade over stock is enuff.

Then there's all ways loosing weight.

I think IQ52's post shows great potential from a iron head and IMO would produce some very good power for the street or a S/S ride. While a 400 cube engine would make best use of this flow and the 440 may need more, it is of course truly a build dependent thing.

280 cfm..........Ported 906 with the 2.08 factory intake valve, same port as above, the #1 or #8, 280/224=25% increase from stock.

299 cfm..........Ported 906 with 2.14 intake valve, same port as above, 299/224=33% increase from stock.

302 cfm..........Ported 906 with 2.20 intake valve, same port as above, 302/224=35% increase from stock.

This is the most recent set of 906 heads (2.25 intake) we flowed: 91 cfm @ .100, 165 cfm @ .200", 219 cfm @ .300", 277 cfm @ .400", 299 cfm @ .500", 325 cfm @ .600", 335 cfm @ .700" and 339 cfm @ .800".

On 7/23/2011, those heads made 694 HP @ 6,900 rpm from a 451ci B-engine with 9.7:1 compression and a single 1050 cfm 4150 4bbl, 91 octane, all motor....no bottle, no boost.
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Dead nuts on Rumblefish. Well.....it's like has been said before, they don't just invite anybody to them engine shootouts. I've talked to the man, shook his hand, seen his work. He knows. He knows. Das all I'm sayin. lol
 
Back cutting the valves on a multi angle valve job and a porting job costs more than new heads?


Starting from scratch they do, bigger valves, hardend seats, springs, 3 angle valve job, mild porting.
Machine shop rates are pretty expensive in the chicago area. [I]I was[/I] mainly trying to get you get guy,s going.
I work on several projects at the same time so I use what i can afford. I was able to pick up a set of the $990 440Source heads with springs and its a pretty good bang for the buck
 
StrokerScamp said:
Painted Victors. You sly dawg.
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One thing I don't like about most aftermarket heads is that they're to conspicuous. Even when painted they are obvious. 440 Sorce Stealth heads look like stock heads but I think they're Chinese. Hot Rod built a big block Chevy with aftermarket heads and they used some kind of heat resistant filler on the macined in logo and painted them.
 
tooslow said:
Why mess with the heavy iron heads? You can't give em away on EBAY
Why not just buy a pair of good Source440 heads that flow out of the box and go racing and save some money and weight. $1000 bucks and thats cheaper than bigger valves , po rting and polishing the old iron heads????
I put my 906 heads on my coronet wagon and she runs good.

DAMMIT MAN for the LOVE OF A GOD
Click to expand...
Have you purchased and used Stealth heads? I'm mulling over what head to use on my 440. The short block is fresh with flat tops and a zero deck piston height. I have 906s with new guides, spring seats machined for 1.55" springs and the seats are machined and done for larger valves. I have to purchase valves and hardware to put them together but I'm considering buying Stealth heads for two reasons. 1) It will save me time 2) they have smaller chambers than the 906s and I hate low compression which is what the 906s will give me (9to 1). I hate the thought of using chinese parts but the Stealth heads fit the plan perfectly. 440 Source will not answer my questions about weather or not the valves and hardware are also chinese and I fear the catastophy if something fails and the motor swallows a valve so I'm looking for feedback from anyone who has used the Stealth heads.
 
Has anyone seen or used the new 440 source super stealth?
http://store.440source.com/Super-Stealth-Cylinder-Head-Bare/productinfo/200-1127/
Any opinions?
I have ported my stealth's till they hit the pushrods. check out my pics
Just waiting for it to stop raining so I can see the improvement at the track.
Stock stealth's gave me a 11.4@118mph in a 383 stroked to 496
I'll let you know how I go.

vbpicgallery.php


Dave
 
Doosterfy said:
Have you purchased and used Stealth heads? I'm mulling over what head to use on my 440. The short block is fresh with flat tops and a zero deck piston height. I have 906s with new guides, spring seats machined for 1.55" springs and the seats are machined and done for larger valves. I have to purchase valves and hardware to put them together but I'm considering buying Stealth heads for two reasons. 1) It will save me time 2) they have smaller chambers than the 906s and I hate low compression which is what the 906s will give me (9to 1). I hate the thought of using chinese parts but the Stealth heads fit the plan perfectly. 440 Source will not answer my questions about weather or not the valves and hardware are also chinese and I fear the catastophy if something fails and the motor swallows a valve so I'm looking for feedback from anyone who has used the Stealth heads.
Click to expand...

The Stealth valve doesn't have the quality of appearance that the Edelbrock valve does but I've not heard of Stealth valve failures. Where the Edelbrock valves have a swirl ground finish, the valve head on the Stealth is machined and shows the cutting tool marks. The Stealth retainers and locks should be replaced immediately. Out of the box the Stealth head does not flow as well as the Edelbrock, therefore the Stealth head will require some port blending underneath the valve seat and around the short turn to equal the Edelbrock.

As to compression, by just replacing the 906 with the Stealth you will gain about .7 point of compression. So if you're running 9.3:1 you'll go to 10:1 compression and at 500hp you might go to 514hp. The stock Stealth will way outflow the stock 906 so a horsepower gain will of course be see there. It's pretty easy though, for someone who knows what they are doing, to bring a 906 with 2.14/1.81 valves, to the flow levels of the stock Stealth.
 
zanderzone said:
Has anyone seen or used the new 440 source super stealth?
http://store.440source.com/Super-Stealth-Cylinder-Head-Bare/productinfo/200-1127/
Any opinions?
I have ported my stealth's till they hit the pushrods. check out my pics
Just waiting for it to stop raining so I can see the improvement at the track.
Stock stealth's gave me a 11.4@118mph in a 383 stroked to 496
I'll let you know how I go.

vbpicgallery.php


Dave
Click to expand...

Opinions? Yes. Facts yet? No. The Super Stealth will probably have it's niche and may outflow the Stealths. How much? Right out of the box it should if they have improved the bowl, max porting to max porting, not much I'd wager. It will be fun to test.

There is a reason the high performance heads use the longer valves that the Super Stealth does not have. The S/Stealth will never ultimately flow with the Indy's or Victors simply due to the port height you can get with the longer valve. The main bottleneck to port flow has NOT been the pushrod pinch that the S/Stealths have removed, but the shape of the port under the valve, the short turn and the depth of the bowl. It's an over simplification I know, but still the truth.

It will be very interesting to see what gains you have made with the porting on the Stealths. Be sure to let us know.
 
IQ52 said:
The Stealth valve doesn't have the quality of appearance that the Edelbrock valve does but I've not heard of Stealth valve failures. Where the Edelbrock valves have a swirl ground finish, the valve head on the Stealth is machined and shows the cutting tool marks. The Stealth retainers and locks should be replaced immediately. Out of the box the Stealth head does not flow as well as the Edelbrock, therefore the Stealth head will require some port blending underneath the valve seat and around the short turn to equal the Edelbrock.

As to compression, by just replacing the 906 with the Stealth you will gain about .7 point of compression. So if you're running 9.3:1 you'll go to 10:1 compression and at 500hp you might go to 514hp. The stock Stealth will way outflow the stock 906 so a horsepower gain will of course be see there. It's pretty easy though, for someone who knows what they are doing, to bring a 906 with 2.14/1.81 valves, to the flow levels of the stock Stealth.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Thats some good solid info you gave me. I'll probly wind up using the 906s. I wish someone would start making heads in a more modular style, like is available for small block chevys. Several different port volume, chamber volume, valve sizes, angle or straight plugs, iron or aluminum and make them available as stock appearing as possible. I'm trying to keep my car as docile looking as possible and steping up to even the Eddys ruins the vibe for me, and of course I want as much power/performance as I can get within my budget constraints.
 
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