flathead31coupe
Well-Known Member
wanting to know if the 8 3/4 weight difference vs the dana 60 dead weight on the axle to help with traction is worth one over the other.....
hi, a dana 60 from a 1967 to 1972 ford 1/2 ton pickup is the lightest dana. there is only 32 # difference in weight. it has passenger car ends on it. simple to swap ends to mopar, add 8 3/4 axles and brakes. change front yoke to dana 1350, they are way cheaper vs truck dana's .
hi, a dana 60 from a 1967 to 1972 ford 1/2 ton pickup is the lightest dana. there is only 32 # difference in weight. it has passenger car ends on it. simple to swap ends to mopar, add 8 3/4 axles and brakes. change front yoke to dana 1350, they are way cheaper vs truck dana's .
the 8 3/4 is not a very efficient rear end due to the placement of the ring gear so low on the pinion gear...the dana 60 is much more efficient rear end...and the 9 inch furd is less efficient then the 8 3/4
swapped out a 8 3/4 for a strange dana 60....has not slowed the car down one bit..fact given the weather conditions I think the car is running faster with no other changes..
I have 440 With aluminium heads with some m&h tires in the back ran low 12s with a 8 3/4 (489) with no crush sleave never had a issue breaking it over 20 passes with it. A friend of mine has a 70 cuda with crate 426 hemi with a 8 3/4 and he has never broke his either. I would imagine some old rear end may have issue's or with 741 case but if you have a fresh rebuild on a 8 3/4 with the crush sleave delete from doctor diff. You will be fine !
...........Any I;ve seen were dana 44s............kim.........
Bout the only way you can slide the 8 3/4 axles in to "Test" the theory would be to cut off the "Truck" housing ends...Otherwise, the Dana will be too wide for the 8 3/4 axles to slide in....Basicaqlly, this swap involves more than I led on, but like I said, if you have ANY mechanical ability youi can swap 'em...
First, Cut the housing. Measure three times and cut once here..Gotta get it right.
Next, find out if you can, or will have to MAKE a "Thrust block"(piece in the middle of an open 8 3/4 that kinda slides back and forth on the pin to allow the axle end play to be adjusted.) as the Dana 60 had the full floating bearings and no need for this.
After that, next would be either cutting you old 8 3/4 housing, or any 8 3/4 housing from about 1965-up for the "Car" ends that will allow your "Car" backing plates to be bolted on...
next would be sliding in your stock or aftermarket your choice, axles and set the end play on the bearings.
next, go have some fun...
Here's my Conversion Pinion Snubber off an 8 3/4 reworked to fit a Dana 60..
In this pic notice the lack of the thrust block? (No slider on the pin?)
Now, notice the slider on the pin in the 8 3/4?
In this pic. You can clearly see one side has the "Car" end welded on and one side doesn't...
For the amount of money I spent rebuilding my 8 3/4 using all new parts from Doctor Diff, I could have just purchased a new Dana 60 from him pre-assembled.
For the amount of money I spent rebuilding my 8 3/4 using all new parts from Doctor Diff, I could have just purchased a new Dana 60 from him pre-assembled.
For the amount of money I spent rebuilding my 8 3/4 using all new parts from Doctor Diff, I could have just purchased a new Dana 60 from him pre-assembled.