wesmac
New Member
Will the factory wiring hold up to 100 or 130 amp alternator?
Alternator
- Thread starter wesmac
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
!!!NO!!!
Read the Mad article for reasons why. Do some sort of bypass. If nothing else, Crackedback makes a simple bypass kit. YOU NEED a breaker or fuse in the bypass YOU NEED to NOT just install the bypass. YOU NEED if you do a bypass, to ALSO fix the poor connections in the system, most of all in the bulkhead connector
The basic problems:
1...Wiring is too small
2....Terminals in the bulkhead connector WERE NEVER DESIGNED for that kind of amperage
3....The "sandwich" construction of the alternator terminal studs/ washers/ insulators invites loosening and failure.
MAD article:
Read the Mad article for reasons why. Do some sort of bypass. If nothing else, Crackedback makes a simple bypass kit. YOU NEED a breaker or fuse in the bypass YOU NEED to NOT just install the bypass. YOU NEED if you do a bypass, to ALSO fix the poor connections in the system, most of all in the bulkhead connector
The basic problems:
1...Wiring is too small
2....Terminals in the bulkhead connector WERE NEVER DESIGNED for that kind of amperage
3....The "sandwich" construction of the alternator terminal studs/ washers/ insulators invites loosening and failure.
MAD article:
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
On a side note, Ma knew this was a weak sister, and provided a kind of better wiring known commonly as Fleet/ police/ taxi. You can find this in some of the service manuals involving factory 65A optional alternators. The ammeter leads were run through the firewall separately in a dedicated grommet.
Also, starting in the early 70's some of the big boats ("C" or "Sea Barges" LOL) used a different setup called "external shunt" The ammeter instrument was NOT a full current meter. Instead, it was a much more sensitive instrument fed with about no 16 or even no 18 wire. Those wires lead out and connected into the large wiring in the harness, using the wiring itself for a shunt. This was done essentially the same way in GM and Ford vehicles. A problem with many of those is that they were "numb". In other words, AKA sitting stopped, if you say, turned on the headlights, you had to REALLY look carefully at the meter to see if it moved!!! This VARIED as to the wiring and as to the car model, one of the worst being and 87, and later, 86 Ford Ranger I had
Also, starting in the early 70's some of the big boats ("C" or "Sea Barges" LOL) used a different setup called "external shunt" The ammeter instrument was NOT a full current meter. Instead, it was a much more sensitive instrument fed with about no 16 or even no 18 wire. Those wires lead out and connected into the large wiring in the harness, using the wiring itself for a shunt. This was done essentially the same way in GM and Ford vehicles. A problem with many of those is that they were "numb". In other words, AKA sitting stopped, if you say, turned on the headlights, you had to REALLY look carefully at the meter to see if it moved!!! This VARIED as to the wiring and as to the car model, one of the worst being and 87, and later, 86 Ford Ranger I had
Inertia
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the site.
That question was just gone over in the last week or so, so perhaps browse or "search" the electrical section.
I'll try to find a link.
www.forabodiesonly.com
Cheers
That question was just gone over in the last week or so, so perhaps browse or "search" the electrical section.
I'll try to find a link.
30, 41, 46, 50 amp alternators? Yeah RIGHT
So, has anyone noticed the funny business Mopar used with their alternator ratings? Oh, I know there were supposed to be different ratings available on paper in different years, but I spent some time looking through parts books recently and found some interesting stuff. Let me clarify that I'm...
www.forabodiesonly.com
wesmac
New Member
Thanks for the info. Very helpful.
As @67Dart273 stated.
My 74's factory ALT was only rated about 40 amps. I'm currently using 60-65 amp Alternator (Oreilly's reman 1980's Dodge Ram's squareback) and my wiring is currently barely just adequate.
Not sure what flavor of A-body you have, but I'm sure it was likely in the 40 amp range from the factory.
I am eventually to going use 85-90 amp alts, after updating and improving the wiring. Likely with 6-8 gauge wires where needed.
And more importantly, welcome to our slice of madness that is FABO!
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