Aluminum heads

[rumblefish360]

When it comes to cam size, the duration dictates the rpm band it operates in. Then get as much lift as you can to take advantage of the heads flow capabilities.

If your not sure, call a grinder to custom cut you one for your needs for the build..

 

[Dan s]

When it comes to cam size, the duration dictates the rpm band it operates in. Then get as much lift as you can to take advantage of the heads flow capabilities.

If your not sure, call a grinder to custom cut you one for your needs for the build..

I plan on getting one custom ground. I’m still working on getting a parts list together. I feel pretty good about the list I got so far. Definitely going with the trick flow heads. I think my next big step will be getting the block to a machine shop and having it looked at. Ounce it checks out I’ll start buying parts. At this point I’m still a good bit under what a complete crate motor would cost

 

[Cudafever]

Some one tell me if I am wrong. As far as some of the small parts. I can use stuff like wiindage tray. Can I rob it off the motor that is coming out of the car. ( alternator brackets)

Is a 750 gonna be enough carb

750 will be enough, factory windage tray may need to be tuned up a little for the extra stroke...........I didn't use one on my stroker.
As far as TF head and bracket.....have no clue......but someone does.

 

[lead69]

You can get the scat kit with the icon745 pistons in it, its the 20.5 dish. Depending on the deck height and with the trickflows you will have no problem making 10.1 compression or better. As far as oiling I skipped the windage tray and just bought a kevko oil pan,its a little crude looking but it gets the job done and the price is good.

 

[Dan s]

You can get the scat kit with the icon745 pistons in it, its the 20.5 dish. Depending on the deck height and with the trickflows you will have no problem making 10.1 compression or better. As far as oiling I skipped the windage tray and just bought a kevko oil pan,its a little crude looking but it gets the job done and the price is good.

I looked at that kit. That’s the way I will be going. I’m hoping to find a machine shop in Tampa and get the block looked at/ checked out

 

[Dan s]

As far as lifters go I was thinking solid roller. I’m I heading in the wrong direction with this. I think most will say to use a hydraulic for the street. Just curious what others think

Notice I haven’t got to the cam part yet. Getting closer but not yet

 

[rumblefish360]

Solid roller = maximum (potential) power

Support your cam with the best breathing equipment for best results. You’ll be happy.

 

[Dan s]

That what I was thinking. I understand that they are a little more maintenance but that’s cool. I hope to have time next week to get the block to the machine shop. Anybody know of a good one in Tampa Florida. Or close by

 

[Dan s]

Also. I’ve read several build ups of 340’s and it seams that a lot of them have issues with the 1.6 rockers. Most have went back to 1.5. Several were with aluminum eddy heads. I haven’t seen a write up with one useing trick flows yet. Has anyone had this problem

 

[rumblefish360]

Machinist? For a possible answer? Contact mderoy340

 

[Dan s]

Machinist? For a possible answer? Contact mderoy340

Yes sir. The blocked was line bored and punched .030 when I got the car. I just want someone to verify it before I start emptying my back pocket. I’m really pumped about this build. I can’t wait to get home and start


Also want to check the deck height to make sure it was only cleaned up

 

[furrystump]

This seems to be a pretty serious effort, while not a strip build per se, due to that I would not put hydr cam in it. With that head my guess is you can build a car that will be quite a handful on the street. You can make very good power with a solid flat tappet cam. If you are chasing every hp a roller cam is the way to go. In an LA block it is not a slide it in and go. Due to the chamfer on the lifter bores the roller lifters can uncover the oil band dumping oil pressure. It can happen on the top or bottom. So you can tube the lifter bore or have them bushed. Also with a roller the valve train takes more abuse. The maintenance for a solid flat tappet is overstated, once it settles in you probably should just check it once a year. The kevco pan is nice. Only hangs down about 3/4” below the k frame. The only issue I have is the drain plug is outside the baffled sump area. So when changing oil it leaves about a quart in the sump. I just installed a second drain plug in the sump area and all is well.

 

[pittsburghracer]

I’m not sure why guys insist on saying a roller cam is needed to go fast. I’ve gone 9.80’s with a .520 lift Racer Brown solid lifter cam and 9.42 with a .650 Hugh’s solid lifter cam with EDM lifters. Ohhh and we broke a roller lifter bar last year in my sons engine trashing the whole engine. The comp roller lifter had around 50 passes on them.

 

[Dan s]

This seems to be a pretty serious effort, while not a strip build per se, due to that I would not put hydr cam in it. With that head my guess is you can build a car that will be quite a handful on the street. You can make very good power with a solid flat tappet cam. If you are chasing every hp a roller cam is the way to go. In an LA block it is not a slide it in and go. Due to the chamfer on the lifter bores the roller lifters can uncover the oil band dumping oil pressure. It can happen on the top or bottom. So you can tube the lifter bore or have them bushed. Also with a roller the valve train takes more abuse. The maintenance for a solid flat tappet is overstated, once it settles in you probably should just check it once a year. The kevco pan is nice. Only hangs down about 3/4” below the k frame. The only issue I have is the drain plug is outside the baffled sump area. So when changing oil it leaves about a quart in the sump. I just installed a second drain plug in the sump area and all is well.

Yes this is a serious effort. This will be my first performance/stroker build. And my ignorance of cams is about to show. With that being said, is there not a roller solid lift and a flat tappet solid lift. My thoughts were to get away from the hydraulic lifters. I’m very familiar with setting lash on valves. Mostly on 12valve Cummins. I’ve put together many motors with oem parts. (Rv cams). Your typical teenage builds so to speak. But with this motor I’m doing as much research as I can and this is the best fourum that I have been on. Thanks for all the help.

 

[nm9stheham]

Also. I’ve read several build ups of 340’s and it seams that a lot of them have issues with the 1.6 rockers. Most have went back to 1.5. Several were with aluminum eddy heads. I haven’t seen a write up with one useing trick flows yet. Has anyone had this problem

Got 1.6's on my son's 340, with the stock Edelbrock heads. But the cam ramps are not like on a fast ramp cam like a VooDoo (picked on purpose to keep the overall forces and lift rates down), and the engine is not focused on max HP but good low and mid RPM torque (based on haw we want to use the engine, which is not drag racing). So it is not seeing lots of high RPM's and heavy valvetrain accelerations and forces.

The engine displacement or head itself is not the issue, but the stock non-roller springs on the Edelbrocks are not particularly heavy. They are just not made for fast rate cams and high lift rates running at high RPM's.

 

[furrystump]

I agree not a fan of hydr on a performance build. Were on the same page, but a solid roller can still present the oil pressure issues due to the lifter bore chamfer and is harder on the valve train. Trade off more hp and more maintenance or less hp and less worries. The real question about rollers is at what point should you pull them to at least inspect them. Every 2-3 years?

 

[Dan s]

Can someone explain to me how the roller would affect the oil pressure. I see the word “chamfer” of the lifter bore. I don’t quite understand that. I would think the bore would have to be straight and true. The next question is about the year of the block I’m going to use. It’s a 70. That would make it and la motor. Did they come with hydraulic, flat tappet or roller cams. I would think It came with a hydraulic.

The question about inspection is a good one. I wouldn’t have a clue how often it needs inspection.

Why is a roller harder on the valve train. I would think that the flat tappet would be harder on it

 

[rumblefish360]

Can someone explain to me how the roller would affect the oil pressure. I see the word “chamfer” of the lifter bore. I don’t quite understand that.

Some roller lifters have a oil band around there body and can pop up above the lifter bore. At the top of the lifter bore is the chamfer. A picture here would wonders. Sorry I don’t have one handy.

I would think the bore would have to be straight and true. The next question is about the year of the block I’m going to use. It’s a 70. That would make it and la motor. Did they come with hydraulic, flat tappet or roller cams. I would think It came with a hydraulic.

The lifter bores can get worn out and this can be fixed by the machinists.
Your engine is an “LA” They all came with Hyd. lifters except a few specialty engines. The 340 only cam with Hyd. lifters.

The question about inspection is a good one. I wouldn’t have a clue how often it needs inspection.

A lot of that issue is how the engine was treated, how much power it makes which conversely goes to how much it was raced or beat on or not.

 

[furrystump]

Ok, see the band in the middle of the lifter? Now picture that move up and exposing that band to the valley while it still is open to the oil galley. See the chamfer on the lifter bores. How deep those are cut
Seems to be a haphazard thing.

 

[rumblefish360]

Thanks for posting that up.

OP, when that oil band on the lifter goes up and above the top of the engine blocks lifter cylinder, oil pressure will drop for that split second. But now it is multipled by 8 at what ever rpm your at.

Yea man! As stuff. You will need to look for a solid lifter body.

 

[furrystump]

In order to take advantage of the roller. You have high ramp rates, snapping the valve open to a useable lift number very quickly. That speed needs stronger valve springs/stiffer valve train. Plus a roller lifter is usually heavier. So you need to control more weight. Which in valve train is not ideal. I don’t know the inspection interval, but the majority being street miles probably shorts the interval. As yet I’m not running a roller so no first hand experience

 

[Dan s]

Ok. Now I understand. With a high lift cam the band could possibly be pushed up and out of the lifter cylinder. I need to be looking at lifters with out the oiling bands. Thanks for the explanation.

 

[mygasser]

or sleeve the lifter bores with sleeves tall enough to eliminate that possibility.
neil.

 

[rumblefish360]

or sleeve the lifter bores with sleeves tall enough to eliminate that possibility.
neil.

An excellent suggestion since it will help the lifters bore stay nice and round and corrected to the proper angle. It is expensive, but worth it.

 

[Cudafever]

And is the best time to do it, while the block is in the machine shop.

I'm running a hyd roller and had to have my custom cam ground down .050 to prevent this from happening.
Aka the less expensive way to keep the groove in the lifter bore!!!!!