Aluminum heads

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WOW! You want me to dig through how many threads now over how large of a time period for you to come up with an answer that should be as easy as answering what color hair you have?

OK, this is my no bullshit advice to anyone wondering what plug they should run on there hopped up engine.

Start with stock and do the best you can with it.
Then try a plug one step colder until you find the max the engine will perform at.
Then try a two step colder plug and so on until performance falls off.

Then try another brand in the same heat range and also try the two heat ranges on each side of the plug that you crossed referenced on.

Open up your plug gaps until performance falls off.
Index your plugs properly so the electrode send the flame front away from the walls and into the open area of the chamber, hopefully towards the middle.

Everyone has a favorite plug. You might as well start with an inexpensive plug. Start with Champions.

Happy (plug & E.T.) hunting!!!
 
^^^lol...
I used a Autolite ar3934 racing. Switch to an NGK-8 now a 7.
Last time I was searching around with plug stuff it was that run on that I was getting when my octane was running out of my fuel tank. I was starting with plugs but ended up just tossing a gallon of race gas in and solving the problem and then ended up with the number 7 in there and they're fine. I'm not searching for an eighth of a tenth of 1/16 of a millimeter of extra time off my quarter mile....
 
j par said:
^^^lol...
I used a Autolite ar3934 racing. Switch to an NGK-8 now a 7.
Last time I was searching around with plug stuff it was that run on that I was getting when my octane was running out of my fuel tank. I was starting with plugs but ended up just tossing a gallon of race gas in and solving the problem and then ended up with the number 7 in there and they're fine. I'm not searching for an eighth of a tenth of 1/16 of a millimeter of extra time off my quarter mile....
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Well frick. Now I need to find the other book and see exactly what that plug is. I'm ok with NGK numbers in that I can tell the heat range by the number. But the autolites I need to look up.
 
on the al vs CI
the combustion chamber makes more difference
note the timing required differences
and quench/ squish/ swirl/ tumble etc
you can make either run
 
j par said:
^^^lol...
I used a Autolite ar3934 racing. Switch to an NGK-8 now a 7.
Last time I was searching around with plug stuff it was that run on that I was getting when my octane was running out of my fuel tank. I was starting with plugs but ended up just tossing a gallon of race gas in and solving the problem and then ended up with the number 7 in there and they're fine. I'm not searching for an eighth of a tenth of 1/16 of a millimeter of extra time off my quarter mile....
Click to expand...


Ok, so that plug you use crosses to a C61CX or just a C61C if you don't have the cut back ground wire.

That plug is really cold for your CR and pump gas. I'd want to see a really good, up close, HD picture or in person but that plug is awful cold for what you are doing.
 
So somebody tell me this is a bad thought.... I think I’m gonna go ahead and buy a set of tf heads send them home to a buddy of mine. When I get home I want to put them on a 318 that is already in my car with the airgap intake I have and see what happens. Only reason I say this is because it will be one less thing I have to buy later and they will fit a 360 if my 340 block does not check out. The 318 has a cam but who the hell knows what it is. Which means I could check it out too. Plus I could see how far in the hole the pistons are. I’ve read almost every thread in this forum about the TEI k flows and I know that’s the way I want to go. Rocker arms would be 1.5 ratio. Maybe I’m nuts but I’m sure y’all will let me know. This is just a thought. But Xmas is coming and Santa is always good to me. Lol
 
The TF heads are gonna add power to just about anything you put them on.
 
good investment for later especially if your stock heads are tired
check your timing chain and check cam while you are at it
IDK about air gap on a stock compression 318 or do you already have it- how's it working 4 U
headers? gears, etc please
report how far down the hole and calculate true compression
.028 gaskets?
run a compression test before and after and report please
MERRY CHRISTMAS send Santa MyWay
 
j par said:
Do you think those 208 intake valves are going to fit in a 318?
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They will be close. You may have to notch the bore. I know a 2.05 fits, but even then I'd notch the bore.


BTW Jpar, I ordered new Champion, Autolite and NGK plug catalogs today. Just because I hate using cross reference charts. It's easier if I just have the plug manufacturers own heat range charts to look at.
 
yellow rose said:
They will be close. You may have to notch the bore. I know a 2.05 fits, but even then I'd notch the bore.


BTW Jpar, I ordered new Champion, Autolite and NGK plug catalogs today. Just because I hate using cross reference charts. It's easier if I just have the plug manufacturers own heat range charts to look at.
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Do you think he'll pull this old tired 318 out to notch the bores for trick flow heads...lol..
Recommending someone trying trick flow heads on a tired old 318 even for laughs is one of the most ridiculous things I've ever heard of...
 
j par said:
Do you think he'll pull this old tired 318 out to notch the bores for trick flow heads...lol..
Recommending someone trying trick flow heads on a tired old 318 even for laughs is one of the most ridiculous things I've ever heard of...
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It's not ridiculous. There is no reason to not do it. He'll have the heads off. Notching the bore is pretty simple.

The small block Chrysler is one of the most induction crippled engines there is. The 318 is no different. It can use all the head you can stuff on it.

The first 318 I did had 2.02 valves, a Strip Dominator, 1.75 headers and a 284/.484 cam that took a ton of money from street racing suckers. There was more than one fist fight over if it was a 318 or not.

That particular combo didn't come from my imagination. It came from Kieth Hershberger. Right from HIS mouth. He also warned me to not get talked out of it. And many tried.

In fact, if the guy that owned the car wanted to run a 3.90 gear rather than the 3.23 gears he wanted, we would have used. 750 carb and 292/.509 cam. It would have been a real dong beater then!

It also had. 3500 stall converter back when most guys said it was too much for a street car.

That was 1980.
 
I am almost 100% certain the bores will not need to be notched even for the 2.08s.
 
Mopar Sam said:
2.08 valves will fit a 318 without a notch, but as YR said a notch is a good idea.
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here's my point would you recommend to some new guy on the form to buy trick flow heads for hos tired old beat-up 318? I realized he said it's just a temporary deal till he gets them on his big motor but seriously?...
 
j par said:
here's my point would you recommend to some new guy on the form to buy trick flow heads for hos tired old beat-up 318? I realized he said it's just a temporary deal till he gets them on his big motor but seriously?...
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I went back and read his post and did not see where it said the 318 was worn out. Besides, I seem to remember a guy on here who put a tunnel ram on a worn out 318. So, why not good heads?
 
Is this the TrickFlow post, procomp Speedmaster post, aluminum head post, or cast iron vs aluminum.


I’m old and easily confused. Lol
 
Mopar Sam said:
I went back and read his post and did not see where it said the 318 was worn out. Besides, I seem to remember a guy on here who put a tunnel ram on a worn out 318. So, why not good heads?
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What!? I'm wrong impossible!!..
 
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