aluminum vs steel flywheel for stroker

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Burntorange70 said:
Could always take the steel one you got to a machine shop and have them lighten it some. Back cut and maybe some holes drilled around it in a few spots.
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not safe... get it resurfaced and checked for cracks. if any cracks... replace. if he wants lighter, replace with a lighter one that is new.

holes / cutting flywheels is not safe

it would be like making your brakelines thinner to save weight. or your fuel lines. there are certain things you dont cut corners on
 
You could be right about doing it to a stock one. I don't know. I do know they sell them like that new and know a few people who have had thers back cut some.
 

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yeah. that's the ticket... they are engineered/tested probably at 12,000 rpm and they are balanced and approved.
 
Here is some thing else people may not recommend doing. Off topic I know but just think it is nuts!
 

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moparlover said:
not safe... get it resurfaced and checked for cracks. if any cracks... replace. if he wants lighter, replace with a lighter one that is new.

holes / cutting flywheels is not safe

it would be like making your brakelines thinner to save weight. or your fuel lines. there are certain things you dont cut corners on
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Really? Then somebody needs to tell that to Mopar so they can recall the millions of flywheels that have been drilled to balance them for externally balanced engines PER THE MP PERFORMANCE MANUAL. Yeah. That's the stupidest thing I ever heard.

In the end, it doesn't make a flyin **** which flywheel you run as neither will damage the engine. Just choose the one you want and run it. This constant arguin and bickerin is just STUPID and ghey as all hell.
 
they were balanced... that's the operative word, einstein.

if you think it's intelligent to advise someone to backcut and cross-drill their flywheel to gain a couple horsepower and possibly kill himself, then by all means go ahead lol. i hope you are bonded and insured giving out such advice.
 
moparlover said:
they were balanced... that's the operative word, einstein.

if you think it's intelligent to advise someone to backcut and cross-drill their flywheel to gain a couple horsepower and possibly kill himself, then by all means go ahead lol. i hope you are bonded and insured giving out such advice.
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I never gave out the advice. I simply said that it is not uncommon to drill through a flywheel. Mopar even has the template they sell to go along with it. I don't think they would sell the template and deestruckshuns if drillin holes in a flywheel made it dangerous.
 
These light flywheels you are refering to are for Roads race or oval cars. Not for street or drag cars. Maybe that is why in some instances they need a push of the line by the crew. Will your wife jump out and get you going on a hill so you don't smoke the clutch.

Motors with light flywheels sound awesome in nuetral. Very quick reving and sound like they can tear a house down. Until you let the clutch out and see what happens with no inertia weight to keep the motor spinning.

There is one here right now. It is very hard to pull out on a hill. But it accelerates quicker if you leave off to shift and the resume throttle.

But if you want a car that is easily driven. Stay away from aluminum. The heavier the flywheel the more energy it stores and it is harder to overcome that stored energy on engagement of transfering the power from one source to another.

We have a Fadenza Aluminum on our super charged Omni. The impeller on the supercharger makes up for the difference in the flywheel weight loss. We also did the samething on our truck. But when the super chargers were removed the steel flywheels went back on.
 

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hi, I read all these comments on light versus heavy wheels. I run a a stocker 340 duster with a mcloed alum flywheel and a soft loc clutch. I have ran the mcloed l/w steel wheel, (18#) also. the difference from a heavy (30# )wheel to 11# alum wheel is .2 tenths and 2 mph faster. the heavy wheel slowed the engine down badly. I have ran l w flywheels on all my stick cars. first was a 265 chev, and 4.56 gears, could launch at 5500 rpm, and not spin the tires. most guys ran a 30# wheel, and spun tires, I won. true, you have to leave at higher rpm, with alum wheel, you're making more power at higher rpm, so the car will go faster. the reason the factories used heavy wheels was so the average idiot could drive with out ruining the clutch. they had to make it idiot proof. less warranty problems. the faster a engine can rpm, faster it will run, simple ,
 
I kinda wish my stroker had the lightweight version of the crank. Someone here said it makes the engine rev a lot faster. Maybe a smaller diameter converter would do the same thing (less inertia). Then again, the way the car is set up now with the 275 drag radials it does not spin the tires when stomped on (kickdown shifts down into 2nd) just makes the front end kinda light and the car jump.
 
Thanks Guy's still have some thinking to do about clutch/flywheel choices,Also I do not have any problem emptying a bottle of NOS,I live in somewhat in the sticks here in Wis,--A par time only police man,We built our cars to RUN and have fun,I can never have enough of the rush you get when the nos kicks in and lays rubber ,It is addictive--Steve
 
I ran a 340 in a '64 Barracuda that was mildly built and included an aluminum flywheel. It worked great. A friend talked me into changing it for a heavier flywheel, telling me it would maintain better RPM on shifts. So, being young and dumb I changed it out. The car had little noticable difference on idle and no difference on takeoff but it felt like an absolute slug when cruising along and mashing the accelerator. It did also decelarated more slowly. I put up with it for a couple of months and swapped it back to the aluminum. Then the guy who recommended the steel flywheel to me bought it for a Dart he was building at a nice discount. (maybe his motive to get me to buy a steel one in the first place:))
I never had that car at the track but it sure felt a lot snappier with the aluminum flywheel compared to the steel one!
And it would beat his Dart with the heavier flywheel when he got it together too!!!
 
Oldmanmopar said:
What d ya think aluminum or steel ? watch the right foot shaft. Wander what he would gain by a aluminum. But since you have talked all your customers into aluminum I would never admit I was wrong either. You must be one of those guys that lift to shift. That would be the only way you would go faster.
THIS IS WHAT A LENCO 4 SPEED LOOKS LIKE...STEVE CLUKEY 70 PLYMOUTH DUSTER INCAR CAMERA COMPILATION - YouTube
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Whenever you want to work on a weekend switching wheels and betting big and be the guy getting goofed on in the vid all over youtube let me know... i'll let you take the al wheel out of the car put the heavy wheel in and then you can put it all back again and make some of the dopiest excuses ever on camera and the biggest taped bet loss you have EVER had...





moparlover said:
flywheels were made big and heavy and strong for one reason... it was to prevent what is called a "clutch explosion". which can take your foot off at the ankle or even kill you. it's the same reason there is something called a "blow-proof bellhousing"

sure you can go lighter, etc. but it's at the expense of strength and durability.

however, with today's newer alloys, aluminum is much stronger than it was in the 70's. just be careful what you are buying and if it says "SFI approved" you will probably be safer.

also make sure you use fresh bolts / clutch plate / clutch / throwout bearing and that the bolts are of the proper grade

performance notions - it is really not a big concern with a 429 c.i. stroker. that being said my evo (my son drives it) has an upgraded (lighter) flywheel and a better clutch made by a company ACT. they work fine. no loss on takeoff, it's actually better. if we had went lower in weight it would have affected the fuel/ignition curves and we would have had to reflash.

just do your research, play it safe, have fun :D
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When you lighten the wheel guess what also has less impact when it breaks ?


Oldmanmopar said:
These light flywheels you are refering to are for Roads race or oval cars. Not for street or drag cars. Maybe that is why in some instances they need a push of the line by the crew. Will your wife jump out and get you going on a hill so you don't smoke the clutch.

Motors with light flywheels sound awesome in nuetral. Very quick reving and sound like they can tear a house down. Until you let the clutch out and see what happens with no inertia weight to keep the motor spinning.

There is one here right now. It is very hard to pull out on a hill. But it accelerates quicker if you leave off to shift and the resume throttle.

But if you want a car that is easily driven. Stay away from aluminum. The heavier the flywheel the more energy it stores and it is harder to overcome that stored energy on engagement of transfering the power from one source to another.

We have a Fadenza Aluminum on our super charged Omni. The impeller on the supercharger makes up for the difference in the flywheel weight loss. We also did the samething on our truck. But when the super chargers were removed the steel flywheels went back on.
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You need to stop making these terrible excuses and non factual theories

You remind of people that never grow and keep with the same old nonsense because there grandfather told them too...

Used to be you wanted the nose higher and the motor higher, i remember a old timer telling me i'll never hook back years ago when i lowered my motor and explained why pointing the nose down is better. . he argued, i had a flat leaving car without wasting time doing a wheelie...

This isn't 1958 anymore...... get off that old school, somethings from the past ARE NOT right. . . .


perfacar said:
hi, I read all these comments on light versus heavy wheels. I run a a stocker 340 duster with a mcloed alum flywheel and a soft loc clutch. I have ran the mcloed l/w steel wheel, (18#) also. the difference from a heavy (30# )wheel to 11# alum wheel is .2 tenths and 2 mph faster. the heavy wheel slowed the engine down badly. I have ran l w flywheels on all my stick cars. first was a 265 chev, and 4.56 gears, could launch at 5500 rpm, and not spin the tires. most guys ran a 30# wheel, and spun tires, I won. true, you have to leave at higher rpm, with alum wheel, you're making more power at higher rpm, so the car will go faster. the reason the factories used heavy wheels was so the average idiot could drive with out ruining the clutch. they had to make it idiot proof. less warranty problems. the faster a engine can rpm, faster it will run, simple ,
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The factory does it for expense, longevity and idle quality and they help remove harmonics.

The factories are using lighter materials they never did before in places they never did before.
.
 
Don't call me an old timer until you know who your talking to. Our race cars are far from old school where I roll from. These cars are street driven cars and are licensed and Pa. inspected.



Listen It used to be nose up. And then nose down in the 80's you are still in the past with your nose down. This is how we roll here in east pa. at PSI. keep the car level. 10" Radial tires on 14 inch wheels to keep the sway out at 200. The yenko is a big tire car. watch all three videos then tell me we're old school here.


You wanna see "My" Duster go go bring "your" alluminum flywheel car out with the slip or title in your name. Full weight Street car inspected no power adders. You bring a box of tissues and I'll bring the emty trailer. I'll take the glide out and put the lenko back in with the heavy steel Fly wheel Just for you.[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWXEs_X9kcs&feature=player_detailpage"]NMCA WORLD RECORD HOLDER FRANK SOLDRIDGE AND VINNY FIORE'S F3 PROCHARGED CAMARO - YouTube[/ame]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=sF_8ZRCHpYk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=U_HSE2SZT1s
 
Whoever's right or wrong at this point it really doesn't matter anymore. This whole thing is so fuckin ghey it just makes me wanna go away and not come back anymore. I used to argue some but damn man, all the arguin lately is just insane. It's just not the same place anymore.

That is a badass Camaro though you old school geezer. lol
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Don't call me an old timer until you know who your talking to. Our race cars are far from old school where I roll from. These cars are street driven cars and are licensed and Pa. inspected.



Listen It used to be nose up. And then nose down in the 80's you are still in the past with your nose down. This is how we roll here in east pa. at PSI. keep the car level. 10" Radial tires on 14 inch wheels to keep the sway out at 200. The yenko is a big tire car. watch all three videos then tell me we're old school here.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=U_HSE2SZT1s
Click to expand...


What does watching those videos have to do with you wrenching and changing wheels so you can't say anything when it's proven to you by your hands the lighter wheel is FASTER.
 
what it proves is that, in the grand scheme of things, flywheels dont make power. gaining 2hp is insignificant compared to the power of the cubic inch.

yes alumiminum flywheels are slightly better than iron... if that slight diff is worth the money go for it, it's your wallet.

my point in the thread was please dont try modding flywheels so you dont end up missing a foot or cutting your junks off or something.

mad dart's point was why bother with fidgeting with losing a bit of weight off a flywheel when you can build something else that actually makes power and gets you down the track in 8 seconds.

and we also now realize how yummy bacon can be.
 
No one said flywheels make power....

You need to re-read this and understand exactly what lighter does for you in GETTING power to where it is needed the most...

The less weight a 200hp motor has to turn or a 3000hp motor has to turn equals more response and MORE power not lost or wasted. . .

So in the GRAND SCHEME of performance or expecting to be competitive it would be kinda dopey to throw ANYTHING heavy on something you want to have performance with.....


I have put lighter materials in drivelines from the flywheel back on everything from your grocery getter, street car, race car and trucks. . . . IN every vehicle i have used lighter over heavy there has always been positive results.
Even using lighter cranks, rods, pistons, AL rods the results are always positive.
So if you lose weight wasting your time getting power to the wheel how is that insignificant????
Performance is measured in time to accelerate, heavy wastes time or heavy costs you time so saying using lighter is insignificant and to just build bigger and then make that motor waste time......

So spending $275 to $300 on steel and going slower and taking more power and time away and mpg and not spending another $30 to $75 more on something that will give you increased power and less time and more mpg would be silly.

If you're afraid of AL like people are then use a light stl wheel, you can get stl as light as like 18 lbs. . .

Using your logic and having performance doesn't work.
 
Yall are like a bunch of queers arguin over a school boy.
 
lol i aint skeert of aluminum. just dont think it's worth the money sometimes. alum heads and intake definitely. pistons of course. water pump sure. aluminum hood for a body would be awesome if someone would make it (i'm thinking about getting an aluminum hood fabricated next year; take out the springs, put hinges in and use stock latch up front. use a hood prop instead of a spring loaded hood)

flywheel/driveshaft maybe if the price is right.

rods probably not. there is a durability factor too.
 
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