I'm reassembling my dash and reconnecting the wiring. How are the ring connectors supposed to be connected to the ammeter posts at the circuit board? I have a few pics and it looks like there is a sheet metal nut then the ring terminal then a hex nut. Is that correct? It seems odd.
ammeter ring connection to rallye dash circuit board
- Thread starter 1MeanA
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No. Make certain you are on the ammeter terminals and not something else. ammeter SHOULD NOT have sheet metal nuts
On a side not, PART OF the danger of ammeter failures is "the sandwich." This varies as to year, IE, my old 70RR had a plastic housing through which the ammeter studs passed and when things loosened up, got warm, the plastic got soft, things got looser. ==The "snowball" effect, or if you prefer, the "fireball" effect.
If you can, tear the ammeter apart, clean the studs and shut and solder them. Best if you can silver braze them, but solder will do, get a good connection. Then examine the "sandwich" that is, the stud, sandwiched to the shunt, sandwiched to whatever else in there, the insulating washers, etc, and out the back where there should be two hex nuts to tighten it all. Star washers won't hurt, and neither would a couple of well fit flat washers on the bottom to distribute pressure. Then slip on your red/ black and use hex nuts on those too
I don't remember how you tell which is red and black, I think some are marked. The worst that will happen is that it will read bass-ackwards and you'll have to swap the two wires
On a side not, PART OF the danger of ammeter failures is "the sandwich." This varies as to year, IE, my old 70RR had a plastic housing through which the ammeter studs passed and when things loosened up, got warm, the plastic got soft, things got looser. ==The "snowball" effect, or if you prefer, the "fireball" effect.
If you can, tear the ammeter apart, clean the studs and shut and solder them. Best if you can silver braze them, but solder will do, get a good connection. Then examine the "sandwich" that is, the stud, sandwiched to the shunt, sandwiched to whatever else in there, the insulating washers, etc, and out the back where there should be two hex nuts to tighten it all. Star washers won't hurt, and neither would a couple of well fit flat washers on the bottom to distribute pressure. Then slip on your red/ black and use hex nuts on those too
I don't remember how you tell which is red and black, I think some are marked. The worst that will happen is that it will read bass-ackwards and you'll have to swap the two wires
It seemed odd to me but that is what someone did. How is it supposed to be connected? If I bypass and connect both to one post does it matter which one?
Whatever you do be sure to use a backup wrench when tightening.
I bought a cluster for parts and the ammeter stud was twisted to where it was shorting the the housing
I bought a cluster for parts and the ammeter stud was twisted to where it was shorting the the housing
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TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
70SwingerGuy
Long Haired Freaky Person
That is true, part of the process of bypassing the ammeter is connecting the black and red together.
@1MeanA , here is a pic of my circuit board, you can clearly see the nuts and the terminal marked "red"
I have done that before.
My circuit board isn't labelled like that but I have a pic of which post the red was on. Apparently it doesn't matter anyway.
I’ll probably clamp between 2 nuts. It would be nice to know how the factory attached the wire to the board (board/wire/nut or board/nut/wire/nut).
Of course the other option it to install it stock and put in the MAD upgrade.
70SwingerGuy
Long Haired Freaky Person
No, it would just affect how your gauge reads
My guess would be board/nut/wire/nut
Thats what I did, plus the IVR upgrade at the same time, while you got the bezel out now is a great time to do it
I checked all the gauges and did the IVR thing. Fuel gauge reads low but I'll worry about that another time.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Regardless of the "factory" way....I go board, flat washer, nut, wire, lock washer, nut. Never had a connection problem doing it that way.
I haven't tried it yet but I was wondering if the nut makes enough contact with the board. The washer may be required.
I would not. I would connect them with a bolt and nut and tape it up
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
And then put a voltmeter in there.
Funny thing about that is some people use those wires for the volt meter.
Uh, sorry but no.
It matters if your ammeter is still functional.
Correct it will show discharge when the head lights are on but the engine is not running.
Reversed it will show charge under the same conditions
You are correct on that. I missed it.
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