That is for certain going to have to be cut at the damage and either connected to the black as mentioned, or repaired/ extended with a new eye.
Amp Meter connections
- Thread starter TF360
- Start date
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Yes Dell, I have the 74 Manuel, and I'm pretty sure that the connector. Thank you.
It sure does look suspect, doesn't it?
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
It does and I think that’s a result of the loose, burnt connection. Not a cause.
I remove Vixen's cluster and check those connections every other oil change. I also remove and inspect the firewall connectors.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Starter issue sounds like either a starter relay, or a neutral safety switch.
Make sure that you're doing ALL of this work with the battery disconnected. Dropping that ammeter wire onto any frame or chassis part that's grounded is a fire waiting to happen.
Insulate the hell out of those ammeter wires, after you bypass the bulkhead connector with them.
Make sure that you're doing ALL of this work with the battery disconnected. Dropping that ammeter wire onto any frame or chassis part that's grounded is a fire waiting to happen.
Insulate the hell out of those ammeter wires, after you bypass the bulkhead connector with them.
If you are going to insist on keeping the ammeter, I would research and learn how the so called fleet/ police/ taxi wiring was done. This was a "partial" bulkhead bypass. And, you'll want to be certain the ammeter is in tip top shape, AKA replacing the studs and so on
You are talking to a guy, who LIKES ammeters, but even on my 67, I converted it to an voltmeter
You are talking to a guy, who LIKES ammeters, but even on my 67, I converted it to an voltmeter
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Just use a short bolt and a nylock nut. Then make sure to cover it with either tape or shrink tube.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Looks like that wire was hot and shorted on the sharp edge below it. I changed my mind about bolting them together. Cut the red ring terminal off behind the short, and solder or crimp a new ring on, then bolt them together.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
I would only go so far as to say it could have been a contributor to electrical issues.
Hard to say where it started until the ammeter itself is removed but the heat damage seems to be at the wire going into the terminal. However I have theory that someone messed around behind the dash and moved the wires.
The wire routing here looks like someone had been in there and moved the harness and or connectors.
I think the insulation got worn where it was touching the headlight switch. Eventually this may have caused some occassionally grounding although the copper conductors aren't showing burning in this photo.
The ring terminal on the Red (A1) wire looks to have more corrosion and heat damage than the ring terminal Black (R6A) wire. Again leaves us wondering if that stud got yanked, or there was more water (leak) that landed on it, or the wear on the insulation and conductor led to resistance and heating during recharge.
AFAIK the ammeter wires on models with this instrument panel should be coming along the top of the dash and then over the headlight switch, as shown in this '70 Plymouth Chassis Manual.
Do a search here on splices
Heres a couple
Inline wiring splice clips........from the Dodge RAM service manual
!!HUH!! Old man learned something. Was into the Dodge ram service manual and saw a little drawing about inline splice "clips" A simple little "U" shaped clip that you wrap around the "running" wire along with the "to be added" tap wire, and crimp. Solder........Makes a...
www.forabodiesonly.com
Clever splice
Saw this a few months ago, just saw it again. Clever splice, looks very strong. WNEC™ - Waterproof Solder Wire Connectors
www.forabodiesonly.com
But the ring terminal and the lead going into it at minimum needs to be cleaned up.
And all of the other connections still need to be checked.
Cleaning bulkhead connectors
Want to clean the bulkhead connectors while motor is out I have elec spray cleaner but was wondering what ya'll use to get into the connectors and give them a good scrubbin
www.forabodiesonly.com
What do y'all use to clean the metal connectors that go into the bulkhead on either side of the fw?
FW means "firewall." I'm putting in a new bulkhead and the connectors look tarnished. Clean, replace? Tell me how you got good contact.
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You're right Mattax. Somebody was in there, and they had three different types of screws holding the Cluster in. Interesting on the way the wires were routed. I have to check closer with all the wiring. I'll post more Pic's
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
I agree. If the conductor is damaged then bolting them together doesn't solve that probem.
Can't tell from the photos whether the ring terminal and the wire lead can be cleaned up and then spliced in. Should keep that option open if a new ammeter is in the future.
Regardless I would not just bypass the ammeter and assume that and the damaged feed wire are the only issues.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I agree. It’s likely the shorted wire and burned up contacts on the ammeter affected stuff down stream. Fix that, then continue to diagnose the rest of the system.
Clipped off the red Terminal, and you guys were right. It looks like the end overheated at some point. Here is a Pic- not looking too good. I was going to splice it in, but it's a little rough. Looks like I don't have a ring terminal that's the right size. I see what you meant by keeping it Mattax
Terrible. Should be obvious. Corrosion can migrate up inside the wire. At the very least cut them off to fresh wire and properly crimp new terminals on. There is no real need to seal them as the factory did. None of the rest of the connector terminals are sealed, AKA the headlight switch, or the ignition switch connector, nor are the bulkhead connectors sealed except minimally around the connector body.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
This is from a Jeep but is an example of corrosion at the break in the insulation, and some oxidation (dark) on the conductors under the insulation. If the blue green is under there or its really oxidized, keep cutting back until i stops.
If you're skilled maybe you can save it. Those 12 gage terminations are hard to crimp. You maybe able to reuse the insulation. I haven't experimented enough to say what adhesive will stick to it. Alternative is to heat shrink several layers and/or liquid tape (messy). One thing the insulator there does is reduce the chance of accidental shorts.
Del think back. Almost all of the terminals on the main wires are sealed like that. Even the ring terminal at the alternator got sealed at some point (not all years). I think the downside is that when they do get hot, there is no air circulation to let it cool quickly.
For example
If you're skilled maybe you can save it. Those 12 gage terminations are hard to crimp. You maybe able to reuse the insulation. I haven't experimented enough to say what adhesive will stick to it. Alternative is to heat shrink several layers and/or liquid tape (messy). One thing the insulator there does is reduce the chance of accidental shorts.
Del think back. Almost all of the terminals on the main wires are sealed like that. Even the ring terminal at the alternator got sealed at some point (not all years). I think the downside is that when they do get hot, there is no air circulation to let it cool quickly.
For example
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I think you’re over thinking it. But I’ll add this, any time I use a solderless crimp connector, I pull the plastic insulator off, crimp it lightly, solder it and cover it in heat shrink. Works a charm.
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