Another fuel gauge issue

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gtxdude

gtxdude

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Fuel gauge started not working then working about a week ago, now it doesn't work at all. Did the grounding test no movement at gauge, did a test light at sending unit no power. I had sending unit and dash gauges gone thru a couple years ago and re-calibrated and everything worked great till now. So I'm not getting power to sending unit, I'm looking at wiring chart and wondering where I marked with arrow what plug in connector that is? Would that be under carpet up by shifter? I always go by miles even with fuel gauge, 200 time to fill up. Thanks

Wiring diagram for Dart.jpg
 
66jim said:
Voltage at sending unit is only 5V your test light may not light use a multimeter
Click to expand...
And the factory service manual says 'voltage between 0 and 7 v. It's a coil and point type of regulator (like the original voltage regulators) If it was electronic it would be a steady 5v.
 
What vehicle / year are we talking about?

Does the water temp guage work?

Have you checked...
  • Fuses
  • Connections

I would start at the sender at the tank and work forward.
 
all good suggestions and questions above. that connector is in the kick panel / under carpet ( depending on who was in there ). if all your other gauges are working. that would suggest the voltage limiter is working. a good multimeter would let you know if there is power at the sender ( make sure you have a good ground for the sender and meter ) . then work your way to the gauge.
 
This is a nice overview of the issue. My gauge did the same thing a few weeks back. Testing my sending unit's ohm range today.

Also switching from an external pusher pump for my surge tank to an internal in-tank pump, so I have to add the + & - wire "bulkhead" pass-through to the sending unit. I already have the 3/8's" return line silver soldered to it, so space is getting scarce on that small round panel.

Repair Your Fuel Gauge
 
Dana67Dart said:
What vehicle / year are we talking about?

Does the water temp guage work?

Have you checked...
  • Fuses
  • Connections

I would start at the sender at the tank and work forward.
Click to expand...

Sorry about that, 65 Dart GT, all gauges work except fuel right now. My main question was where the connector was that was shown on schematic. I think toolmanmike is right about it being behind kick panel. Been a while since I've removed any of that, you forget what's under there. thanks for replies :)
 
Where did you get that wiring diagram and do you think I could find one for a 1974 Dart? Simply wow, after looking the crappy Haynes diagrams and flipping back to the color codes chart, I really would love to get my hands on something like that.
 
gtxdude said:
Sorry about that, 65 Dart GT, all gauges work except fuel right now. My main question was where the connector was that was shown on schematic. I think toolmanmike is right about it being behind kick panel. Been a while since I've removed any of that, you forget what's under there. thanks for replies :)
Click to expand...



The connector to acces the tail, turn/ stop and fuel gauge wiring is indeed behind the left kick panel

Body wiring page 8-103 shows that detail

If you have not done so, go to MyMopar and download the '65 Plymouth service manual. (They don't have a Dodge one)

Page 8-67 claims that the IVR is a plug in unit on the circuit board (Some early models and all Ralley clusters the IVR is inside the fuel gauge)

If the temp gauge seems to work it is not the IVR
 
Last edited:
You say it worked intermittently. A poor connection might be at that harness connector but... More common poor connection is ground jumper on fuel line at sender, or speedy nuts that attach gauges to printer circuit board.
Most basic first test, remove the wire from the sender and attach it directly to chassis ground. At switch on the needle should move to max/full . Proves all good except sender and its ground.
 
RedFish said:
Most basic first test, remove the wire from the sender and attach it directly to chassis ground. At switch on the needle should move to max/full . Proves all good except sender and its ground.
Click to expand...
agreed, but do not leave wire attached to ground for more than a few seconds or you can cook your gauge
 
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