Anybody running 17" Cobra Bullit rims on a Duster

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AndyF said:
Yep, caliper is mounted upside down in that picture. I didn't want to go to the work of changing knuckles just to check the fit of the parts. Once I knew the parts would fit I went ahead and swapped knuckles.
Click to expand...

I figured you knew, I was just ribbin' ya. :toothy10:
 
Sorry to bring this thread up again...But I just finished the suspension rebuild on my 68 Cuda...I have RMS tubular uppers and strut rods, and a 73+ disc brake kit, (with the 68-72 v8 k-frame) I tried to mount a 17x8 bullitt rim with 5.72 backspace, but of course, the rim hit the outer tie rod end...I guess I'm gonna have to take the rotors off, AGAIN, install longer 1/2-20 studs, and run a 3/8 or 10mm spacer....DAMMIT!!!

Where are you guys getting your 3/8" or 10mm wheel spacers? I can't find them on summit..
 
i couldnt find them anywhere when i thought of doing that so i was going to just make my own out of plate.
 
Here's mine-
1972 Dart w/ '73 front Discs. I think I used a 5/16 spacer in the front and a longer wheel stud. Early b-body 8.75" rear end with S/S Springs.
255-50-17 in the back 245-45-17 front, but I'll probably replace the tires with 245-45-17 front and rear.
I still need to lower the front end a little.
-Jon

SI855731.jpg
 
i machined my own,thats why i said that. perks of doing tool and die work!
 
for those of you that used wheel spacers, did you change the wheel studs? i have factory disc rotors, and i need to get longer wheel studs for them so i can use my 3/8 spacer i got...i cant find the exact length i need, they have ones that are like 3" long..would it be ok to get longer ones, and just cut some material off them?
 
check out the ones by mopar performance they have the correct long shoulder not like some others that i have tried. should be able to get them from mancini or summit. the factory studs are barely long enough with no spacer, forget it with a spacer.
 
well, the only ones i found that had a .615" diameter knurl were the 3" long ones, which are too long, i need more like 2 inches long...ill probably have to have the 3" ones cut and machined down...
 
So, uh, does anyone have any insight into what I'd have to do to get a set of 17x9 Mustang Bullit rims onto my completely stock 1974 BBP Dart?
I tried the Charger 18s and they didn't clear the hub on the front, nor did they clear the dust cap.
Frankly, if I go out and buy another set of wheels, I really don't want to have to deal with this crap.

Also, are these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4120610/
the wheel studs that people are referencing?
If so, does anyone know how long they really are?
 
there is a wealth of info in this thread if you want a rim that will come out of the box and fit your dart, look elsewhere.
 
jamesdart said:
there is a wealth of info in this thread if you want a rim that will come out of the box and fit your dart, look elsewhere.
Click to expand...

I have read the entirety of the thread and I cannot find a completely clear answer, so I did what I thought you were supposed to do, asked a couple of questions!

I didn't say I wanted completely out of the box fit, but I wanted to buy something that I knew WOULD fit, unlike the 18'' Dodge Charger wheels I did buy, which I fear that if I space out even with longer lug studs will hit the front fenders.
 
the front needs to be adressed with either a 3/8" spacer to fit over the hub or turn down the end of the hub to fit in the rim or hob out the center cap retaining lip in the rim. if the are oem ford rims you will have to hog out the center register to fit front and back. the rear, you have to measure your car. some how someway there are guys even in this thread that claim the 5.72 backspace rims fit fine with a stock a body rear, yet there are other guys that the same rims would hit the leaf springs. i needed minimum 3/4" spacer to clear the leafs with 5.72 backspace and 245 tires on my duster with a factory 8 1/4. 1" adapter was much easier to find so i went with that. you really need to measure your car. i went a different route and i have the spacers sitting here if you find you need a set.
 
sneke_eyez said:
So, uh, does anyone have any insight into what I'd have to do to get a set of 17x9 Mustang Bullit rims onto my completely stock 1974 BBP Dart?
Click to expand...

Yes, I know exactly how to put 17x8 Bullit rims on a Dart but it isn't super easy or cheap. Basically you need custom spacers for the rear that are about 1/2 inch thick. Hub centric steps on both sides of the spacer is the trick there and you'll need longer wheel studs.

Up front you can do it with a thin spacer, longer wheel studs and the hubs need to be turned down in a lathe.
 
i bought hub centric spacers for ford and opened up the inside to mopar size. unfortunatley the aftermarket rims have a bigger register to fit more cars, but i dont think they are sized to be hubcentric on anything. in the end i went a different route anyway. im not a fan of spacers so we turned down the end of the hub on the front to fit perfect inside the rim. i am very happy with the way they fit.
hey GMACHINE what ever happened with your a body frame connector project?
 
Well I got a good set of billet aluminum 3/8 spacers from Lug Nut King for $40. That fixed the tie rod clearance issue... I also got my lug studs figured out and installed last night, and was able to install the rims..however, I am still having clearance issues with the tubular upper control arms at full lock at each side...I'm thinking of just installing a set of factory 73+ A-arms to eliminate the problem...
 
well that sucks, who's arms did you use? i have a set of rms arms i was going to put on the duster. got any pics?
 
jamesdart said:
well that sucks, who's arms did you use? i have a set of rms arms i was going to put on the duster. got any pics?
Click to expand...

I used RMS tubular uppers...I have no idea why I am having clearance issues...I know for a fact that other people are using these arms, with the same rims, and using about the same thickness of spacers, and don't have clearance issues...I'm really stumped right now, and I need help from another source...

If it matters, I am also using a 73+ factory disc brake kit, firm feel 11/16 HD tie rod kit, RMS tubular strut rods, and a Flaming River 16:1 manual steering box...

I know for a fact that my alignment is off, but I have it adjusted to what was recommended by bringing the rear cam all the way in and the front cam all the way out.
 
I'll Gladly swap either of you a set of stock 73+ arms for your rms arms!!! I can have them in the mail tomorrow! :D

Seriously though. Mopardude: do you know if your car has been in an accident before? Where are they hitting?
 
Yeah, my car was hit before, in the rear, and the front, but it was minor damage, not enough to tweak the frame. it is all straight and i do not see any frame damage at all...the rim just touches the upper control arm at full lock, on each side...i know that the RMS arm is about an inch or so wider than the stock a-arm...
 
mopardude318 said:
Well I got a good set of billet aluminum 3/8 spacers from Lug Nut King for $40. That fixed the tie rod clearance issue... I also got my lug studs figured out and installed last night, and was able to install the rims..however, I am still having clearance issues with the tubular upper control arms at full lock at each side...I'm thinking of just installing a set of factory 73+ A-arms to eliminate the problem...
Click to expand...

How did you figure out the lug studs?

Lug Nut King is pretty reasonable isn't he? Did you catch him at the Turlock Swap?

Again, what A-arms are the they? Is it that the tubular A-arms are wider in certain spots? Pics?
 
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