Anyone got a match ???

[BillyBob0780]

Hi Folks
Was thinking of putting this on my tank sender thread ( still not working ). But, this is different problem. Wife was in my 73 Dodge and I asked her to crank it and said she was but, nothing was happening. I got in and attempted to start it. There was no spring back from the ignition nor was there any crank. The wife then shouted "fire" I found the fusible link on the red ignition relay wire had started to melt by the plug at the bulkhead.
Multi question... the lack of spring back from the switch would that cause that wire to overheat and ultimately melt ? Does the switch on the column give the spring resistance? If so is it repairable or new switch? The melted link what is the rating ? I've seen multiple questions about the links but, no definitive answer. Or can it be replaced with a maxi fuse ?? Fusible links are not overly used here in the UK.

 

[67Dart273]

Please explain "spring back." Are you referring simply to the key itself? This is a physical function in the ignition switch. Lack of that MAY indicate internal problems in the switch AND IT MIGHT BE possible that the contacts inside the switch are "waltzing around" in there "loose" and causing a short

HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT shorts without burning down the car.

Remove battery ground, and connect the largest wattage 12V lamp you can find in series with the battery to ground. Stop lamp, dome lamp or old headlight. When there is a "draw" on the system, the lamp will light, and if there is a short, that lamp will limit current and prevent anything from damage

These old girls, generally, are "under" fused AKA poorly fused. A fuse link has ALWAYS been poor protection, and harnesses sometimes are damaged when a short should pop the fuse link instead. I would say you could use a maxi fuse but not sure what amperage. I would use at least whatever the alternator output is rated, say, 50A

More important is "what caused" this? Not sure.........right off............READ the MAD article, not so much for doing this modification, but for an OVERVIEW on the primary power distribution..........

Catalog

and a diagram from that site..........

This simplified diagram shows how the ammeter/ fuse link/ alternator charge line/ and power feeds are all connected. The "welded splice" is a big factory splice in the black ammeter wire up in the harness a few inches from the ammeter. The headlight switch has it's own bult in breaker. The ignition switch is NOT protected except the poor fuse link.

IF YOU do not have a factory manual, wander over to MyMopar and download one. That one, and several others, are there because of guys on this board right here

ALSO on that site are two page aftermarket/ 3rd party diagrams. They are NOT as detailed and leave out some options, but can be more easily followed.

 

[BillyBob0780]

The spring resistance in my mind ( not good ) is the physical resistance you feel when you go past position 2 on the turning key phase and the switch is cranking then you let go off the key and it goes of its own accord to position 2. At this time there is no resistance whatsoever nor any cranking and I guessing the wiring overheated.

 

[j par]

When you say 73 Dodge it makes me think of a truck?...

 

[j par]

If necessary taking the steering column apart after pulling the steering wheel is pretty easy and you can pull the tumbler and mechanism out relatively easily..

 

[MoparMike1974]

Im pretty sure the spring is inside the actual ignition switch. It probably broke and shorted something out, causing your fusible link issue.

 

[BillyBob0780]

Looks like I'm ordering some more parts and taken the steering wheel off again...

 

[mopar head]

Dodge what?

 

[BillyBob0780]

73 Dodge Dart 318 auto

 

[cudamark]

If no spring assisted key return from start back to run, you need a new ignition switch at a minimum. Naturally, if you melted wires somewhere, that would have to be addressed too.

 

[BillyBob0780]

New one ordered today, and I'll make up a new ignition relay wire once I've dismantled everything and check the cable in its entirety.

 

[cudamark]

Ignition relay wire? I'm not aware of any relay for the ignition. Do you mean starter relay wire?

 

[BillyBob0780]

Yes the relay by the battery.

 

[MoparMike1974]

Check the yellow wire under the column where the ignition switch plugs in. That one likes to get crispy.

 

[BillyBob0780]

I will thanks for the advice.

 

[BillyBob0780]

Ahem, Can anyone tell me the diameter of the top steering column snap ring ? Mine broke into pieces while attempting to remove it...

 

[BillyBob0780]

Secondly anyone got any ideas on removing this pin? I've hammered at it with various punches to no avail

 

[mopar head]

Make sure it`s not tapered.
have someone hold a back up on opposite side.

 

[BillyBob0780]

To be honest it looks the same diameter at both ends. It's just does not even look like a roll pin.. I was thinking of using a little heat on it.

 

[cudamark]

It'll tap out with a hammer and punch.

 

[Dicer]

I would remove the shaft from the column or remove the whole steering column and lay it in a vise. You may have to drill to remove the mushroom part of the rivet it looks to be peened.

 

[MoparMike1974]

The trick is to support the shaft while tapping out that pin. Its not tapered and comes out pretty easy once you support the backside.

 

[cudamark]

I'm doing this by memory, but, I always thought that once you got the steel cap off, it was an actual roll pin holding the steering lock plate on, not a solid pin. Maybe someone has been in there before and changed things?

 

[BillyBob0780]

Hi folks, I'm sorry to bother you all again... more electrical conundrums. Finally changed the ignition switch. The one from Rock auto was slightly different so required so cutting. It's not a task I would want to do again...
Anyway changed the switch and now have a different set of issues. The Dart would not start. I believe its the neutral safety switch is the issue. It'll start in neutral not park. However the melted fuse link I replaced with a maxi fuse and now when I rev the engine the alternator gauge goes off to over +44 and fuse blows. I noted the fuse holder was very hot also...
Also the fuel gauge still doesn't register!! All these faults started with a leaking fuel tank!!
Any easy advice most appreciated. Thank You all again

 

[volaredon]

I have seen the "no spring back" before, or "weak" spring back on these before. The spring itself is part of the ignition switch (NOT the part that you put the key in, that actually has nothing electrical to do with)
Now a days I look for old stock, whether NOS factory or an aftermarket brand. I just had to replace the ignition switch in my 85 D150 for same issue.
I bought 2 "standard" ones from Ebay, and it's obvious they have been on the shelf for years.
One for now and another for a spare "while the gettin was good"
If tilt wheel ignition switch is different from non tilt.
With a tilt column there is a rod that goes a ways down the column and the actual ignition switch is a "slide switch" about Midway down the column, just under the steering column trim piece.
For a tilt column the steering wheel doesn't have to come off to change the ignition switch.