If you're going by the gauge when it happened that's 40 AMPS I'd have a real hard time believing it was 40VOLTS. The most I've seen on one that max'd out/pegged is slightly less than half thatI had an alternator before that would peg when revved. Was a bad alt with an internal short.
At first it would go the other way, but then I reversed the field and it would peg.
Sadly, the first time it pegged I hit my flashers and headed for the shoulder. Guess what 40+ volts does to incandescent bulbs?
Was a spendy weekend.
If you're going by the gauge when it happened that's 40 AMPS I'd have a real hard time believing it was 40VOLTS. The most I've seen on one that max'd out/pegged is slightly less than half that
(around 18-19v) but yeah that can fry bulbs.
Usually when I see that high of volts I find the battery has been cooked "dry" I don't know how much of that is the "chicken" or the "egg" (did the voltage go full tilt because the battery was low on water or did it get cooked out because of the charging system)
On my old wrangler I had that happen 2x over the 19 years I owned it, about 6years apart. Both times I smelt got battery acid, popped the caps and saw it was dry, a new battery fixed it each time.
On my 79 d100 I had an overcharge condition right after a motor swap. The motor had swung and smacked the VR and broke off one of the wires in the VR connector. The valve cover on the/6 smacked it, VR was right in the middle of the firewall on that one. A new VR pigtail solved that one.
Hi again (groan I hear you say)… Starting problem sorted. Thank you it was down to linkage adjustment. I must have tweaked something when, I was bolting it back together.
Electrical issues are still there though. The ammeter is still going berserk when revved, the fuel gauge still doesn’t register.
I have checked the earth to sender all good, tried and extra earth still no good. I had checked the sender prior to refitting it by moving the float and checking its operation against the gauge and I checked the resistance and it was within the parameters of operation. The temp gauge DOES work. I replaced the burnt wire and fuse link with new cable and a maxi fuse holder and went for a 50amp fuse with no issues. Now I replaced the interior light bulb and noted that it started to literally smoke! Car switched off and fire checked completed..
Has anyone got any advice of is it time for an auto electrician ( if you can find one in the UK these days ) to take over and consider a rewire ?