Looking at a Performer RPM or Weiand Stealth to run on my 360. Its got a cam, Indy cast heads with 2.02 intakes,headers, etc. I've got an electric choke but wondering what I can expect for driveability problems with one of these intakes in winter?
Anyone run an intake without heat crossover in winter?
- Thread starter Dartish
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yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Don't have either of those manifolds. I have a Strip Dominator. I don't run a choke. Drive it in sub freezing temps.
moper
Well-Known Member
Factory cast iron 6bbl. Choke plate wired open, no factory choke stat present. Medium size hydraulic cam, low static compression. Drove it daily for two years. It had it's own set of snow tires... A lot of cold weather drivability issues are because sometimes simply turning the choke cover isn't enough to make it work...
I had blocked heat crossovers on a daily driver with an electric choke, and it was fine...
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
ld 340 intake with center divider cut down and blocked crossover. avs with no choke. lifter valley baffle to keep hot oil off of bottom of intake. cold n9yc champion plugs and headers. pump it a few times and go with no problems since 1985
kiss
Well-Known Member
Blocked heat crossover on my Edelbrock Performer. When it wasn't blocked the fuel would boil in the carb after shutoff no matter what I did to insulate the carb. Even a heat shield wouldn't do the trick. As soon as the crossover was blocked, problem solved. Today's gas sucks.
No issues at all here. I have a manual choke. Then again it never gets too cold in San Diego so take it for what it's worth...
No issues at all here. I have a manual choke. Then again it never gets too cold in San Diego so take it for what it's worth...
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Just in case anyone is interested, I wonder if a manual choke could be easily installed on a factory thermoquad vehicle? I used to run a Holley double pumper without a choke and just pumped the accelerator a few times before start-up, never failed (temperate climate).
When I th the factory qjet on the stock motor, the choke never worked properly since element was toasted. Starting it at below zero temps just took a few extra pumps of the pedal. I guess basically, I'm wondering if having an intake without the heat crossover will make the engine take a lot longer to warm up. In gettin old and like how that old Dodge warms up REAL quick! Run a 180 tstat and a radiator out of a 1 ton newer model truck. It warms up REAL quick, but you can play in the mud or snow all day and it'll only run about 185, but that heater works great. Just wondering if not having the heat crossover will affect this or make the carb think the engines cold when temps are below zero
moper
Well-Known Member
Carbs don't think...lol
Fuel is harder to mix when it's cold although the 10% ethanol helps to some degree as it's more volatile at lower temps. But (factory type) carbs have pull offs and linkages that help smooth out the rough spots until the heads have some temp in them. It's the parts and chambers that need to heat up. Not the carb or the intake. At below zero the bigger issue is the oil which is basically a runny jelly in the oil pan...lol
Fuel is harder to mix when it's cold although the 10% ethanol helps to some degree as it's more volatile at lower temps. But (factory type) carbs have pull offs and linkages that help smooth out the rough spots until the heads have some temp in them. It's the parts and chambers that need to heat up. Not the carb or the intake. At below zero the bigger issue is the oil which is basically a runny jelly in the oil pan...lol
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Today's fuels are a lot more volatile than in days of old, and not just due to ethanol....
I have found that the choke opens up and closes often and it is bothersome to me.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
No crossover and Edlebrock electric choke here, and I have never had any starting or running issue's with it.
Yes it gets cold in Arizona.
I did however have float bowl boiling issue in the summer when I did have one.
Yes it gets cold in Arizona.
I did however have float bowl boiling issue in the summer when I did have one.
Winter? What's that?
I've had the crossover permanently blocked in the Action Plus intake on the 351M in my 75 F250 for almost 3 years. No choke. Drive it every day.
How long does it take for the engine to warm up and start putting out heat? Right now with the old 340 iron intake, and the previous smog qjet intake, the heaters starting to work within a few minutes. I'm just trying to keep some heat in the cab when old man winter hits.lol. Can remember running an old Chevy truck with Rpm intake,roller rockers,geardrive,headers etc. Once it got coolout, that motor wouldn't hardly warm up no matter what thermostat, radiator, I put in it
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Exhaust crossover has nothing to do with how fast you'll get heat, or how fast the engine warms up. It is mainly there to make the stock choke work, stop carburetor "icing", and also improve drivability. But most of us with electric (or manual) chokes don't need it at all.
That's what I was hoping to hear. That Chevy truck is the only vehicle I ever drove in winter with blocked crossover, besides my solid lifter 340 dart but that gets parked about this time of year. Thinking that roller motor with low drag rings and those tiny little Chevy parts just didn't wanna make any heat. Even in summer it would run 160 with a old 2 core radiator
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Absolutely true, they don't because they are/were all EFI and didn't need to heat a carb or choke.
The warmup heat for the heater to work as soon as it can comes from that one hose from the water pump to the intake.
That hose bypasses the thermostat and recirculates the coolant around and around through the block and heater core until the engine warms up enough so the thermostat opens.
Thanks for all the input everybody. Swap meets tomorow so hopefully find an Rpm or Stealth. Talked to a buddy that used to run an old Torker340 in a heavy car with a mild can. Can't remember if those had a heat crossover or not, but said it was pretty good streetable intake for a single plane. Saw one for $40at last meet but wasn't looking for an intake then. Should of bought it anyway
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Yea, I was speaking specifically of the later Magnums and the fact that they don't even have a provision for crossovers in the heads or intakes either one.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Actually, the Torker is a single-plane manifold and isn't really the best for low-RPM, stock-ish cam, heavy car use. You really want a dual-plane manifold like a Weiand Stealth or Edelbrock Performer.
The 340 torker is a small runner intake,i have one,but perform nearly identical to the performer rpm. Mopar muscle or one of the other Mopar mags.did an intake manifold thrash,like 13 intakes and the 340 torker was good all across the board,near image of rpm intake.
had some issues in cold night runs , so we used the water base plate that ford used under some square four bbl carbs , brings heater water through it to warm up the intake . chrysler used to run coolant passages under the carbs on industrial engines for years . works well .
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