Apparently I suck at drag racing...

-
318willrun said:
That is really cool.... from 1966 :)
I still have my 1st time slip too. It was in a 150 dollar 1973 Dart Swinger. High mileage, with a slight miss (probably bad valve). 318 2bbl, single exhaust, auto, 2.76 gears. 16.72 @ 81 mph
Click to expand...
That’s awesome. I had my first slip forever, but it finally disappeared. My Cuda ran a slightly lower time. I told a gang foreman of mine I’m gonna drop 3+ seconds off the car. He was in a huge state of disbelief and laughed his *** off at me. He would say “So you know how much work that is?!?!?!”

Later that year .... low 13’s!
Thank you and good night!
(LMAO, as if it was hard!)
:rofl:
 
So I'm about to make some changes to my car before I go back to the track. Some of the parts I just happened upon, so I picked them up.

First off is a pair of 26x8.5 MT ET Drags.
Second is a pair of Super Stock springs.

In addition to those changes, I think I'm gonna add a adjustable pinion snubber, driveshaft hoop and a Linelock to make burnouts easier.

Any suggestions on a starting point for tire pressure and launching rpm?
 
Don't be so hard on yourself.. I've done worse..
 
With a stick, slicks and a tall one legged I would think tire pressure on the high side, rpm on the low side and slip that clutch. Then start getting more aggressive.....
 
Sure grip. Missed that part. I still think easing into it is the way to go.
 
vntned said:
So I'm about to make some changes to my car before I go back to the track. Some of the parts I just happened upon, so I picked them up.

First off is a pair of 26x8.5 MT ET Drags.
Second is a pair of Super Stock springs.

In addition to those changes, I think I'm gonna add a adjustable pinion snubber, driveshaft hoop and a Linelock to make burnouts easier.

Any suggestions on a starting point for tire pressure and launching rpm?
Click to expand...
18 psi cold, launch rpm is test test test depending on converter, put a driveshaft loop before running sticky tires. I run my adjustable snubber 1/4" gap with driver in the seat.
 
What part number radiator and brand ,looks to be a good fit.
I run 14 psi on my dart,loosen or remove your front sway for more travel up front.I try launching at 2500 rpm...find a back alley and practice launching you figure the sweet spot and then adjust to the track prep....
 
Looks like a champion got sellers id or part number,or did you just search 273 radiator.
 
TXDart said:
I run 14 psi on my dart,loosen or remove your front sway for more travel up front.I try launching at 2500 rpm...find a back alley and practice launching you figure the sweet spot and then adjust to the track prep....
Click to expand...
This ^^^^
When you get to the track it will hook a bunch harder at a lower rpm. On the back alley practice, just start @ low rpm, like 1500 - 2000 and release the clutch as aggressively as the car can take it without stalling.

It is just practice and learning, figuring out what the car likes takes time.

What street demon model do you have? Part number handy?
(Or picture?)
 
The reason I ask is because there were so many versions and completely different models of the carb when someone says I have a street demon it can be (in my head at least) 1 of 4 completely different carbs.
 
At least you are out there, don't be so hard on yourself. I haven't been out in 10 years. I wish I was in your shoes! A bad day at the drag strip is better than a good day in prison (WORK)!
 
Just picked up a few traction upgrades...

MP Super Stock springs
26x8.5 MT ET Drag slicks
Adjustable snubber

IMG_20180726_110032.jpg
 
Last edited:
Running the factory type clutch... you will slip and eat that clutch in a hurry. Call Ram and get the right set up. A stick and slicks and a 8 1/4 rear means a broken axle and a trip to the wall. If you have to do it, then launch at idle and get yourself a set of adjustable Ranchos. Call Calvert for the right ones. Use the largest and fattest street tires tire you can fit. A hooking slick is most unforgiving to all your weakest links.
 
8-1/4?
i don't thing so, maybe??
If you have a 7-1/4, you will brake it easy, with a set of slicks!
Rear end upgrade is first. If it is a 8-1/4 or 8-3/4 rear then you will be just fine.
Does a 7-1/4 even have a pad to bolt on a pinion snubber?

Any ways all Three of them items will help with hook for sure. Make sure you know which SS Spring goes on the right side.
 
So I've already put a RAM HDX clutch in the car, and the 8.25 has had Mopar SureGrip and 3.55 R&P put in it. The SS springs havent ever been run. Theyve been installed once, then removed and been sitting on a shelf ever since. You can easily still make out the part numbers as well as the "L" and "R" stamped on them. I also do not intend on dropping the clutch at the line while turning a lot of rpm. I'm gonna take it easy and get a feel for it.



Side note: I did manage to score a 8.75" housing this weekend from a fellow FABO member! Now to start collecting axles and a SG chunk...

IMG_20180728_152959.jpg
 
It's gonna be in the morning, I left all the slips in the glovebox and the car is still at the track.

Suffice it to say, I went faster.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top