Battery in Trunk Wiring That Exceeds NHRA Requirements

SpeedThrills

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What takes about 5-10 minutes to explain in person, takes a novel to get across on the internet. All good, just follow the schematic.... :)
I agree, for sure! But I'm hoping we make it easier for any other electrical dummy like me who searches in the future.
 

RustyRatRod

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I agree, for sure! But I'm hoping we make it easier for any other electrical dummy like me who searches in the future.
I have you whopped all to hell in the electrical dummy department, I promise.
 

SpeedThrills

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I'm finished... again!

IMPORTANT: On the schematic, I listed everything that I used. What I used may not be what another application needs, regarding breaker and fuse ratings, and wire gauge requirement.

-I could not find a way to call the manufacturer of the breakers. (I think we all knew that.) They're Chinese made, off of Amazon. I did, however, do some researching, and don't see anything that says they aren't rated at 60 amps, no matter the input voltage. They are rated at 12-48 volts DC.

-I changed out the 1/0 gauge cables that run between the large, left side of the Ford solenoid, and the cut off switch; and between the cut off switch and the large lug on the factory starter relay. They are now 6 gauge, which is more in line with my amperage requirements. Not necessary, but I wanted to.

-I added a breaker to the cable between the large, left side of the Ford solenoid, and the cut off switch.

Duster Battery in Trunk Schematic.jpg


Duster Battery in Trunk.jpg
 

mopowers

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I think the question on the breaker is what voltage is that 60amp rating at? If it's at 48V, won't it trip at a much higher amperage at only 12 volts? Or is the voltage independent of the current rating??
 
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SpeedThrills

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I think the question on the breaker is what voltage is that 60amp rating at? If it's at 48V, won't it trip at a much higher amperage at only 12 volts? Or is the voltage independent of the current rating??
I'm thinking that if there is a different amp rating for any given voltage (12 through 48), it would be given in the specs for the breaker.

But like you, I don't know, and I should.

I hope @crackedback or someone with a good understanding can enlighten us.
 
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Bluecuda340

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I use a starter relay from a Jeep CJ with a torqueflite. It is the same style relay but it uses a ground for the neutral safety just like stock. If you use that you can get rid of the mopar start relay.

Mine is a little hard to explain because my CD solenoid is up front on the inside of the firewall and I use a master disconnect that has 4 poles, 2 large and 2 small. The small ones break the ignition hot that feeds the CD solenoid. So when you turn off the switch it kills it all instantly.
 

crash520

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Great thread guys, Im ok with how things have been explained, I like the main supply to the starter be off unless starting and the relay that interrupts the charge wire from the alternator to the battery.
I have my EFI ECU on the firewall where the heater box used to reside, I have a 120A three wire alternator, I have a charge cable from the alternator directly to the battery via the ECU panel which is where I take off power to supply lights etc, I had planned to put the CD relay on the charge wire on the ECU panel and then simply continue the charge wire back to the battery, is there any issue with this?
alternatively, in order to kill the alternator charge, rather than cutting the main charge wire can I simply cut the much smaller voltage regulator field wire going to the alternator?? will that kill the charge? what it means is I can use a much smaller relay to control the Alternator over a large 200A CD relay on the charge wire
 

Bluecuda340

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I think I tried that and it didn't work. I know one version of my wiring that I was certain would work did not haha, but its been almost 10 years now.
 

crackedback

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Great thread guys, Im ok with how things have been explained, I like the main supply to the starter be off unless starting and the relay that interrupts the charge wire from the alternator to the battery.
I have my EFI ECU on the firewall where the heater box used to reside, I have a 120A three wire alternator, I have a charge cable from the alternator directly to the battery via the ECU panel which is where I take off power to supply lights etc, I had planned to put the CD relay on the charge wire on the ECU panel and then simply continue the charge wire back to the battery, is there any issue with this?
alternatively, in order to kill the alternator charge, rather than cutting the main charge wire can I simply cut the much smaller voltage regulator field wire going to the alternator?? will that kill the charge? what it means is I can use a much smaller relay to control the Alternator over a large 200A CD relay on the charge wire

draw it out, schematic.
 
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