Battery kill switch location

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max512wedge

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Please bear with me guys I know I’ll probably be asking a lot of questions in the next couple of months. but I never have built a race car from the ground up. So here goes I’ve got a really nice paint job on my duster and I don’t want to drill any holes for the battery kill switch in the body. so can I install it in my fiberglass rear bumper when I get it. Or what do you suggest? Is this a secure area if I unfortunately hit the wall and the safety needs to shut off the Battery. Thanks Guy’s
 

My 67 Dart had fiberglass bumpers. I installed it where the license plate goes. Extra metal to reinforce in the center of bumper to make it stiff. If you hit the wall the ends of the bumper will most likely snap off and the switch will stay intact.
Just a FYI I also installed a kill switch on the dash in the radio area. NHRA never said anything about it for the 20ish years racing.
 
Mine is in a terrible location visually, but that's where the old one was. It's part of the charm of Krusty.

Krusty sticker 4.jpg
 
IMO a fiberglass bumper is not a secure place for a battery cut-off switch. I would think that just turning it on & off over time would loosen it and damage the fiberglass.

For minimal damage to your bodywork, I would suggest a hole between the bumper & taillights for a "pushrod" leading to a securely mounted switch inside your trunk. If you back into a wall, hopefully that would actually help to shut off power from the battery.

Sorry, I don't have a pic handy of the actual switch location but I believe I bolted a bracket with it on to the ballast box. It's possible to fabricate the brackets from scratch but kits are also available. I have a rubber grommet in the tail panel where the rod goes through.

DSC00624.JPG


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DSCN2187.JPG
 
Darter6 said:
My 67 Dart had fiberglass bumpers. I installed it where the license plate goes. Extra metal to reinforce in the center of bumper to make it stiff. If you hit the wall the ends of the bumper will most likely snap off and the switch will stay intact.
Just a FYI I also installed a kill switch on the dash in the radio area. NHRA never said anything about it for the 20ish years racing.
Click to expand...
That’s a pretty good idea to run a cut off in the car and one on the outside. Just in case the rear shut off gets tore off.
 
Locomotion said:
IMO a fiberglass bumper is not a secure place for a battery cut-off switch. I would think that just turning it on & off over time would loosen it and damage the fiberglass.

For minimal damage to your bodywork, I would suggest a hole between the bumper & taillights for a "pushrod" leading to a securely mounted switch inside your trunk. If you back into a wall, hopefully that would actually help to shut off power from the battery.

Sorry, I don't have a pic handy of the actual switch location but I believe I bolted a bracket with it on to the ballast box. It's possible to fabricate the brackets from scratch but kits are also available. I have a rubber grommet in the tail panel where the rod goes through.

View attachment 1716467731

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Click to expand...
That’s a pretty good spot it’s kind of hidden and not in the middle of the rear body work.
 
I have to assume drag racing. I can't help there. The car i am building for Bonneville, the kill switch can be front or back as long as it is labeled. Maybe that could open up more places to hose from
 
Just drill a hole in the tail panel. It’s just a hole. Use masking tape and it won’t chip the fresh paint. You’re building a race car, not restoring a trailer queen. Cutting body panels and drilling holes is how race cars get built. Plus when you wreck it, the safety crew at the track is going to look in one spot first, and that’s where the battery cutoff should be located.
 
Push/pull thru the rear panel on one car, one in place of the gas filler in the rear panel, and one in a drilled hole, along with a pair of charging terminals.
And the last also has a concealed switch in the passenger compartment as well.
All three on the right rear of the car.
 
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I put the Volt decal on a magnetic strip and would install it when they wanted it on at the track. When pushed in ti was not noticeable. I believe I bought it all from S&W racing or Mancini racing









spoiler pics 802.jpg
 
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71GSSDemon said:
I have to assume drag racing. I can't help there. The car i am building for Bonneville, the kill switch can be front or back as long as it is labeled. Maybe that could open up more places to
Click to expand...

71GSSDemon said:
I have to assume drag racing. I can't help there. The car i am building for Bonneville, the kill switch can be front or back as long as it is labeled. Maybe that could open up more places to hose from
Click to expand...
Yes for drag racing.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I put the Volt decal on a magnetic strip and would install it when they wanted it on at the track. When pushed in ti was not noticeable. I believe I bought it all from S&W racing or Mancini racing

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That’s nice you can barely see it. You drilled through the light?
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I put the Volt decal on a magnetic strip and would install it when they wanted it on at the track. When pushed in ti was not noticeable. I believe I bought it all from S&W racing or Mancini racing

View attachment 1716467814

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Oldmanmopar said:
I put the Volt decal on a magnetic strip and would install it when they wanted it on at the track. When pushed in ti was not noticeable. I believe I bought it all from S&W racing or Mancini racing

View attachment 1716467814

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Another question for you. Is your car mini tubed and the springs moved in? What size rims with back spacing and tire size do you run. Beautiful car you have there!
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I put the Volt decal on a magnetic strip and would install it when they wanted it on at the track. When pushed in ti was not noticeable. I believe I bought it all from S&W racing or Mancini racing

View attachment 1716467814

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That is the neatest and most professional installation I've ever seen. No surprise it'd be yall. lol
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I put the Volt decal on a magnetic strip and would install it when they wanted it on at the track. When pushed in ti was not noticeable. I believe I bought it all from S&W racing or Mancini racing

View attachment 1716467814

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rmchrgr said:
No visible holes.
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Now those are BOTH slick!!
 
Locomotion said:
IMO a fiberglass bumper is not a secure place for a battery cut-off switch. I would think that just turning it on & off over time would loosen it and damage the fiberglass.

For minimal damage to your bodywork, I would suggest a hole between the bumper & taillights for a "pushrod" leading to a securely mounted switch inside your trunk. If you back into a wall, hopefully that would actually help to shut off power from the battery.

Sorry, I don't have a pic handy of the actual switch location but I believe I bolted a bracket with it on to the ballast box. It's possible to fabricate the brackets from scratch but kits are also available. I have a rubber grommet in the tail panel where the rod goes through.

View attachment 1716467731

View attachment 1716467732

View attachment 1716467733
Click to expand...

lol Caution: footbraker is a classic. I love it.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
lol Caution: footbraker is a classic. I love it.
Click to expand...
Location on my Dart. I had a T handle for years , a friend made me the “ M “ for it a few months ago . I made a plate to cover the back up light and put the shut off rod thru it , its a Moroso shut off switch assembly. Charging lugs are mounted on a plate below the shut off switch behind the bumper , out of sight but readily accessible.

IMG_0952.jpeg
 
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