Best bang for the buck?

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What's your 1/4 MPH ? that will give you a good indication of the combo's potential, then you can decide on what mods are needed to get to your desired goal.
 
This is apples to oranges, but gives a good idea about tuning. My 71 Dart that I just happened to find a 71 360 for, went 13.99 its first time at the track. The engine was a stone stock, dirt road dingleberry rebuild with the 71 340 intake, TQ, Crane "magic cam", stock rockers, headers and a Moroso pan sealed to a Mopar hood scoop. Transmission was a 904 with a TF2 and 3200 stall It had a 3.23 sure grip with 275 60s. I later swapped in a 4.10 sure grip and slicks and the car got into the 13.40s eventually. That was a fun car that I drove 60 miles one way, raced all night and drove home, then to and back from work all week.
 
fishmens67 said:
He's wanting to spend money, his ? was about purchasing heads. I think purchasing heads for a stock short block is a waste.
The combo will need to be tuned differently with the addition of the needed parts to reach his goal.
So why not just purchase them and tune. High 14's are a far cry from mid 13's.
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And as three teen has valves that will fly is finding out a milestone away from 12's... I was offering suggestions on how to spend less money and get the same but if everybody's dead set on him tuning for mediocrity so be it...
like I said in one of the earlier post he should take in what we're all saying and make his own decisions...
It will be up to him to take advice from someone who has an 11-4 time slip or someone who has a 13-3 time slip or someone who has a slant six and no time slip LOL...:poke:..
 
aaronk785 said:
Don't forget driving technique also. That combo I had liked shifting at 6300 on 1-2 and 6000 on 2-3 shift. Motor liked 38 degrees timing. Unusual for a small block but it worked. Every engine is different.
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Agree. My 318 right now is at 40* total. Low compression engines like a little more timing.
 
CRAMAR said:
This is all great conversation.I have always felt like i missed something.
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I 100% agree optimizing you tune up will be the cheapest way to go and a great learning experience but it will not get you to where you want to be in the end. But when you do purchase or if you purchase speed products you're still going to have to tune those as well..
 
chrgdrt said:
What's your 1/4 MPH ? that will give you a good indication of the combo's potential, then you can decide on what mods are needed to get to your desired goal.
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AHHHH HAA!!! I was going to ask this, then decided to wait for it.... LOL Good ole' mph divided by the 1320 is a good measuring stick.
 
There's a lot to be said for tuning your suspension that you're not even breaking the tires loose yet. You're going to need more horsepower...

These are all bolt on things were talking about for the most part without taking the rotating assembly apart and putting in higher compression Pistons and such..
 
j par said:
And as three teen has valves that will fly is finding out a milestone away from 12's... I was offering suggestions on how to spend less money and get the same but if everybody's dead set on him tuning for mediocrity so be it...
like I said in one of the earlier post he should take in what we're all saying and make his own decisions...
It will be up to him to take advice from someone who has an 11-4 time slip or someone who has a 13-3 time slip or someone who has a slant six and no time slip LOL...:poke:..
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Sorry, this isn't about you and me. It's about the OP. Not taking your bait. And don't want to embarrass you. :)
 
CRAMAR said:
I have gone 93 mph.1320 ÷by 93 =14.19
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If it's traction, then you know where to start. Good set of drag radials, or suspension tuning, etc. I say if you tune a little more, you'll see 95-96 mph and that is enough to hit a high 13. You can see how close you are already.
 
CRAMAR said:
I have gone 93 mph.1320 ÷by 93 =14.19
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There it is. Almost a FULL second that might be had with no money spent. No one here is trying to tell you what to do. I think all we are saying is what WE would do in your situation. I simply detest advising people to spend money if they don't have to "yet" and I don't believe you do. But of course, if I'm wrong, by all means, go buy some heads and whatnot.
 
RustyRatRod said:
There it is. Almost a FULL second that might be had with no money spent. No one here is trying to tell you what to do. I think all we are saying is what WE would do in your situation. I simply detest advising people to spend money if they don't have to "yet" and I don't believe you do. But of course, if I'm wrong, by all means, go buy some heads and whatnot.
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I would rather pay attention learn something and apply what i leaned
 
CRAMAR said:
No
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There is some of it. Good chance those J heads have a lot more cc than the 318 heads would have had. If you used a head gasket thicker than factory tins, then you added more cc's. Therefore, you lose compression, which loses low end torque. I usually cut them about .040. You will be told by most that you have to cut the intake also. My experience in times past is I've never cut the intake face and NEVER had an issue. Also, couple that with your cam, and you have a 318 that doesn't want to come to life till 4000 rpms. Thus, your 2.36 60 ft
 
In my old 318 with a .449 lift cam/j head stock stall it wouldn't do much until 3.000 rpm.
 
thesiren74 said:
Low compression 318 is not making any torque down at 2,000 rpm.
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I already assumed this. It's not going to no matter how it's tuned. The short stroke needs gears and a 3500 stall converter to get and keep the 318 in the working rpm range
 
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