Block weight reduction?

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B.R.E.Demon

B.R.E.Demon

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I'm currently getting ready to start the build on my new race motor 396ci striker based around a 340 block and I wanted to know if there were any tricks or techniques for saving some weight from the physical block I already planned on smoothing the block inside and I just didn't know if there where any good tricks to save an oz or too ,that where left over from the heyday of drag racing when s&m,dick Landry, Motown missile exc ruled the strip
 
B.R.E.Demon said:
I'm currently getting ready to start the build on my new race motor 396ci striker based around a 340 block and I wanted to know if there were any tricks or techniques for saving some weight from the physical block I already planned on smoothing the block inside and I just didn't know if there where any good tricks to save an oz or too ,that where left over from the heyday of drag racing when s&m,dick Landry, Motown missile exc ruled the strip
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Clean up the casting flashing left around the valley and I don't think there's much else that can be done. Maybe shaving the numbers and decking the bloc would save you maybe an ounce. But really, unless you've already lightened the rest of the car, an ounce off the block isn't gonna be a difference maker.


Now some body tricks would be to go through and replace all the fender bolts with hollow or even aluminum bolts. And then go thru the entire car and see if you can use shorter screws and bolts on other non stress areas. Buddy of mine did this on a 74 charger and netted 4 lbs....not much but hey 4 lbs is 4 lbs
 
Do you care if the outside of the block looks original? If not, there are various bumps and protrusions on the outside that can be eliminated or smoothed/ reduced in size. The engine feels nicer without all those sharp edges too. I removed the bosses where the transmission braces bolt to the block on small blocks. It all adds up. You just have to do a cost/benefit analysis. How much is your time worth?
 
Blocks were cleaned up to get rid of flash (chips) and reduce cracking "starters" not to save weight. "All the crap" you could do for a year on a block would likely not save much over 5 lbs. Be careful you don't do something to WEAKEN the block.
 
67Dart273 said:
Blocks were cleaned up to get rid of flash (chips) and reduce cracking "starters" not to save weight. "All the crap" you could do for a year on a block would likely not save much over 5 lbs. Be careful you don't do something to WEAKEN the block.
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^^^ This, and I'd be surprised if one could even get close to 5lbs.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Clean up the casting flashing left around the valley and I don't think there's much else that can be done. Maybe shaving the numbers and decking the bloc would save you maybe an ounce. But really, unless you've already lightened the rest of the car, an ounce off the block isn't gonna be a difference maker.


Now some body tricks would be to go through and replace all the fender bolts with hollow or even aluminum bolts. And then go thru the entire car and see if you can use shorter screws and bolts on other non stress areas. Buddy of mine did this on a 74 charger and netted 4 lbs....not much but hey 4 lbs is 4 lbs
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The whole car in its current state without me in it weighs in at 2784 lbs I way 162 so it's totally 2846 currently I primarily drag race the car so it's striped by complete appearing so 4 lbs would be great we are quarter filling the block. Also just to touch on the hard wear thing is I have all ready used aluminum and nylon bolts on all non structural pieces and titanium or chrome Molly (ARP) otherwise I have been a member of moparts for a while now so I have done a lot of there tricks for weight loss
 
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67Dart273 said:
Blocks were cleaned up to get rid of flash (chips) and reduce cracking "starters" not to save weight. "All the crap" you could do for a year on a block would likely not save much over 5 lbs. Be careful you don't do something to WEAKEN the block.
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Well in drag racing there's an old adage that says evey once counts a so all the crap I do to pick up a hair of a second will hopefully add up and after I do all my machine work to Dave a couple of pounds ( which will only take about two days to do) I plan on magnaflux the block again, and if there is a crack you drill it stitch it and call it good to go
 
B.R.E.Demon said:
That's why we run helium in the tires for les rotating weight
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just make sure you run those tires down to the minimum thread depth...you don't need all that extra rubber weighing you down

oh, and check with you local drag strip to see if you are allowed to drive your car in nothing but a speedo
 
I remember this topic discussed by the early pro stock missile team.
Of course they were working with hemis.
Ted had gradually removed weight from the block castings to the point he knew where to stop.
I recall a photo of the pan rails being extensively milled. Article told how much weight was removed
but I can't recall. This was early 72.
 
ssba said:
I remember this topic discussed by the early pro stock missile team.
Of course they were working with hemis.
Ted had gradually removed weight from the block castings to the point he knew where to stop.
I recall a photo of the pan rails being extensively milled. Article told how much weight was removed
but I can't recall. This was early 72.
Click to expand...
That's the picture I saw too does anyone know of It or have it
 
B.R.E.Demon said:
That's the picture I saw too does anyone know of It or have it
Click to expand...

I saw a hemi block that Don Grotheer sold to a friend back in the day. It was extensively lightened to the point of having to use straps bolted over the freeze plugs to hold them in, needless to say it was a piece of junk. would have to be totally filled w/ block filler to be used !
 
If you are using a motor plate you can machine the motor mount ears off.

You certainly are picking the fly poop out of the pepper. Don't worry about the block filler. It weighs about the same as water.

I will tell you that for a bracket car, you are wasting your time.
 
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