Body Work Tutorial

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Thanks for the post I'm about to shoot my engine bay and you answered alot of questions i was wondering about
 
I know exactly NOTHING about body work. I obviously need to replace the lowers. my concerns about doing this myself are all because i am a complete novice

1 - how do I know how much to cut out
2 - how to make sure the new patch is lined up well prior to welding it in place
 

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Hemitheus,
Not saying that this is the correct way, but take a look at page 6 of my restoration link to see what I did. I hope this helps. In terms of where to cut, I think that you need to consider where the new seam will be so that you can finish it with minimal effort. What I have found in my research is a pretty common theme, retain as much original metal as possible. I too am a beginner at this stuff. Patience is a virtue, grasshopper! L8r
 
hemitheus said:
I know exactly NOTHING about body work. I obviously need to replace the lowers. my concerns about doing this myself are all because i am a complete novice

1 - how do I know how much to cut out
2 - how to make sure the new patch is lined up well prior to welding it in place
Click to expand...


I too have ZERO experience at body work. Check out my resto thread. We just said f%^& it and dove in. Granted, we haven't welded anything in yet, but that should be happening within the next few weeks. We took the old sheet metal and used it to brush up on our welding skills. It's scarey but there's nothing you can do to eff it up that can't be fixed/redone. That's our philosophy!! How do you get to Carnegie Hall?...Practice!!

Good luck and keep us posted with progress and pics. Looking forward to it.
 
I have a question about aligning doors/fenders/hoods,deck lids. When you get these parts installed on your project [prior to paint] what is the best way to ensure that you can put them back on after paint in the same place? I have heard drilling small holes that you can insert a pin into so they are aligned after paint [don't know what to do about the hole after] or do i paint the jambs and inside of the panels, install them, backtape the openings and spray the outside as a whole? Any sugestions or direction will help me from making more work for myself. Thanks.
 
I always hang the doors and hood and paint it complete with jambs, then all you have to do is hang the fenders. Eliminates the issue of having to smash up and chip anything hanging doors.
 
When I did my Dart, I assembled the entire car like the factory would have done. I did spray the back side of the front and rear valance panels first.

We did a coat in the jams, a coat out side, Coat in the jambs, coat outside, etc. This way there were no tape lines and no need to hang metal after it was painted.
 
what grit papers do you use when blocking ? I just finished blocking the car with 180. I have a roll of 220 and 320, Then I have 400 and 600 wet/dry.
 
i have a 68 dart that i'm taking to bare metal and replacing both quarters and the floor pan. i'm trying to be sure i have my ducks in a row and making sure i understand the process. i'm also hoping i don't sound to stupid as i'm not the most articulate when it comes to writing or typing. the order should go something like this;
strip to bare metal
spray epoxy primer
replace metal panels
repair all dents
apply heavy filler
sand with 36 grit
apply evercoat glaze
sand with 80 grit
sand with 180 grit
apply 3-4 coats of high build primer
block sand with 220
block with 320
block with 400
block with 600
apply dp90lf epoxy as a sealer
apply color
apply clear
then what?
is this list correct?

please make corrections as needed

thanks for the info and all the help!
 
Not that this isn't a great thread, but are there any auto body books that would be good to have?
 
As far as fixing these rust spots, you have a few options.

1. Sand panel until they are gone (or as close as you can tell)
2. Grind panel with some sort of abrasive wheel (this may require you to do filler work if it is taking metal from the panel).
3. Chemically treat the area with an acid wash. (this is hazardous so be careful if this is your approach).
4. Treat with a rust "converter" Not my personal choice.

Have to ask about Rust converter and why you do not recommend it. My reason for asking is, when I painted my 37 Dodge Coupe, I had serious surface rust on the cowl vent, on the body around the cowl vent. I sanded the metal bare, and used a rustoleum rust converter on the cowl vent, the cowl, the front and back of the dash as well as a few other places. I did primer, and paint the car with a base coat, clear coat, and never had any sign of rust reappear or a sign that I had used a rust converter.
 
Thank You for your expertise and offering this once in a lifetime opportunity to hear as well as see how to do bodywork. This truly makes understanding how to use filler, correctly.

How would you work a panel that has been stretched and needs shaped, without resorting to the high cost of replacing a MOPAR panel?

Thanks
 
w2 stroker said:
i have a 68 dart that i'm taking to bare metal and replacing both quarters and the floor pan. i'm trying to be sure i have my ducks in a row and making sure i understand the process. i'm also hoping i don't sound to stupid as i'm not the most articulate when it comes to writing or typing. the order should go something like this;
strip to bare metal
spray epoxy primer
replace metal panels
repair all dents
apply heavy filler
sand with 36 grit
apply evercoat glaze
sand with 80 grit
sand with 180 grit
apply 3-4 coats of high build primer
block sand with 220
block with 320
block with 400
block with 600
apply dp90lf epoxy as a sealer
apply color
apply clear
then what?
is this list correct?

please make corrections as needed

thanks for the info and all the help!
Click to expand...

Great thread! I am in the same boat here about to tackle my first attempt at body work.

The above step by step is exactly what I was looking for.

My car has been repainted at least twice in the past (Original Gold is still intact under the cheap White and black paint job that was applied at least 15 years ago). Lots of large chips and some shoddy Bondo work under there as well. I will be replacing both rear lower quarters and patching the tail panel. I am not doing a full restoration, Just want a nice paint job when done.

My first question is on Paint removal..
Soda Blasting, Other media Blasting or DA and elbow grease??

Also what is a good bang for the buck, easy to work with epoxy primer you would recommended?

Also any suggestions for basic "cant live without" shop supplies that I should have sitting around keeping in mind I am starting with an empty shop with nothing but standard tools? Masking supplies, Cleaners, ect.. (I am trying to get my shopping list together so I can get started)
 
Just read the whole thread and it seemed to have got left flopping in the wind. Any way here's the bump for subscribers. LOL! Most times when you have a deep dent of direct damage with an outer ring or line of indirect damage once you re-establish your body lines and pull the direct damage much if not all of the indirect damage will return to normal with hardly any bumping needed to relieve the indirect damage. Just thought I would throw that in for grins and giggles. :salute:
 
w2 stroker said:
i have a 68 dart that i'm taking to bare metal and replacing both quarters and the floor pan. i'm trying to be sure i have my ducks in a row and making sure i understand the process. i'm also hoping i don't sound to stupid as i'm not the most articulate when it comes to writing or typing. the order should go something like this;
strip to bare metal
spray epoxy primer
replace metal panels
repair all dents
apply heavy filler
sand with 36 grit
apply evercoat glaze
sand with 80 grit
sand with 180 grit
apply 3-4 coats of high build primer
block sand with 220
block with 320
block with 400
block with 600
apply dp90lf epoxy as a sealer
apply color
apply clear
then what?
is this list correct?

please make corrections as needed

thanks for the info and all the help!
Click to expand...

The OP seems to be AWOL :)
Too bad he was doing a great job.
I'm no expert, but I think I would skip the 36 grit and glaze.
 
Quote from earlier:

"strip to bare metal
spray epoxy primer
replace metal panels
repair all dents
apply heavy filler
sand with 36 grit
apply evercoat glaze
sand with 80 grit
sand with 180 grit
apply 3-4 coats of high build primer
block sand with 220
block with 320
block with 400
block with 600
apply dp90lf epoxy as a sealer
apply color
apply clear
then what?
is this list correct?"

Reponse....

After the 3-4 coats high build I would prob have a block party with 180 and guide coat.
If it all looked good I would go 2-3 more coats high build then final sand 400 for solid color and 600 for metallics.
I only use sealer on hard to cover colors like yellow. Also I will seal a bumper cover after AP or seal an e-coated fender, hood, etc before color. In a resto job I see no real need to seal. It just makes more film build and more chance for trash and bugs. Just my opinion.

:happy1:
 
Hey 67dart440gt I'm in the middle of fixing a small dent in front fender , getting ready to spray do you have any helpful hints for blending new paint into the old paint
 
Z-dart said:
Hey 67dart440gt I'm in the middle of fixing a small dent in front fender , getting ready to spray do you have any helpful hints for blending new paint into the old paint
Click to expand...

What kind of paint? (base/clear or single stage) What color?

Blending is a learned skill and may be difficult for a first timer to do correctly.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
What kind of paint? (base/clear or single stage) What color?

Blending is a learned skill and may be difficult for a first timer to do correctly.
Click to expand...

I believe it's a base but I'm not putting clear on I'm going to wet sand and buff to a shine like the rest of the dar it is brown with a light gold flake in it ! I have a local auto shop that has a PPG camera and computer that makes the paint by the paint on the car ! Then they put it in a spray can I do have a little experience painting but not a lot. Just got done wet sanding and rubbed threw on a couple of spots on edges and fixed a small dent in front passenger fender up high and right behind headlight on the side , would appreciate any hint ! Because I know it is tuff to do ! thanks
 
Z-dart said:
I believe it's a base but I'm not putting clear on I'm going to wet sand and buff to a shine like the rest of the dar it is brown with a light gold flake in it ! I have a local auto shop that has a PPG camera and computer that makes the paint by the paint on the car ! Then they put it in a spray can I do have a little experience painting but not a lot. Just got done wet sanding and rubbed threw on a couple of spots on edges and fixed a small dent in front passenger fender up high and right behind headlight on the side , would appreciate any hint ! Because I know it is tuff to do ! thanks
Click to expand...

Here is a blending video (they are using spray cans so it's a bit cheesy).

Cheesy or not it does give a good example of basic blending. You are doing a single stage metallic which complicates things.

Sanding or buffing a single stage metallic can introduce other problems like mottling.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFs978usmNo"]How to blend automotive paint. - YouTube[/ame]
 
I have a question. I'm going to prep a car basically for the first time and then take it down to a body shop to get primed and painted.

After applying filler and sanding it down smooth. Can I leave the filler exposed as long as the car doesn't get wet or do I have to cover it with some sort of primer?
 
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