Budget 408 Build

[mpd12150]

There seems to be several posts asking questions about building a 408 but wanting to maintain a budget while obtain the most performance one can get.

I am by no means an expert and I welcome anyone and everyone to correct me at any point, but I have been asked by a few members to post my build specs for the 408 I just finished building that will be going into my son's 69 Dart GT that is a memorial build for my 19 year old son who was killer July 4, 2015.

I will start off by giving the numbers that I was able to obtain when it hit the dyno for break in and tune. I was able to obtain 413HP and 463 Torque. The following is the build specifics that I used and I am confident there are many others on here that can add to this post with great information and I welcome it. This entire ground up car build is being done on a very restrictive budget as I am a disabled and forcibly retired police officer so...to say the funds are tight is a significant understatement. I hope this helps others understand that you can build a very powerful stroked 408 without the need for very expensive aluminum heads and other high dollar parts. The key was quality on a budget. Here ya go and I do hope this helps. I will gladly answer any and all questions or private messages.

I started with a 1978 360 that was a mess. I disassembled the engine and sent the block off to be taken care of. The block was obviously cooked and cleaned. It had brass expansion plugs installed as well as new oiling plugs. I installed new cam bearings and had the cylinders torque plate honed after boring .30 over. I had it decked but just for straightness....not zero decked.

The rotating assembly is internally balanced Skat set up with a cast crank, forged I beam rods and forged Icon Flat top pistons. I used a Meiling standard volume oil pump, you DO NOT need a high volume oil pump. I used a Cloyes Double Roller timing chain...the one I used was about $65. Now...here is here is the very most important....CAM SHAFT!!

DO NOT use an off the shelf cam. Go to the Bullet cams website, www.bulletcams.com, move the cursor over the contact tab, and it will drop down cam selection. Click that link and it will be a fill in the blank page and you will need to fill it out to your specifications. Once you send it off to Bullet, they will contact you via email. I dealt with Tim Langly and he is a great guy who knows what he is talking about. It will cost you about $350 for the cam and lifters and yes, you can get one cheaper, but you will hate yourself. CONTACT BULLET and have them build you a custom grind. (there are several companies that will do a custom cam built for you, I used Bullet and I can speak to their product, I am sure there are many other guys on here that can recommend another company but this was my build and that is the power it made)

As for the heads, I am using a set of 1973 small valve 360 heads from a Challenger. These heads are nothing great. They have a set of springs good for .500 lift and that is it...besides a valve job. I have ZERO port work at all.

I am running 1.5 Mopar Performance Full Billit Roller Rockers and Comp Cams pushrods, they are nothing special for push rods, but spend good money on roller rockers...don't mess around with that.

I am running an Edelbrock Performer intake...nothing special with that....again...no porting at all.

I am running a Quick Fuel Slayer Series 750 CFM carb, when I had the engine dyno tuned they did some jet changing.

That is the build....I have about $4500 and that includes the dyno tune and I HIGHLY recommend that dyno work. When you have it on the dyno, they break it in properly, make sure it is oiling well and cooling as well. It is a controlled environment and it is being broke in and tuned by people who know what they are doing. Spend the money...it is money well spent. I spent about $670 but I had to had my distributor rebuilt as well. The dyno was a former Rosch Racing Dyno...for whatever that is worth.

As for the distributor and ignition, I am using a electronic distributor...nothing special. You do not need to spend insane money for MSD distributors, however I am using a MSD 6AL and a good set of Accel wires and thats that.

My engine makes 413hp and 463 torque. I know I left ALLOT of power on the table by not having a set of worked heads but this is a nasty little small block. It is reliable and makes bitchin power. I do intend on sending the set of 1978 heads from this engine off and have them worked for bigger valves and have a mild port and polish job done. It will cost me right around $900 to have this done but I will also have a well over 500hp iron head small block and that is my goal. I want to build 500hp iron head engines and prove you do not need Aluminum heads or any high dollar heads. People will argue that spending $900 to have iron heads worked is a waste...and that is entirely their opinion. I am an old school kind of guy even though I am only 44. I like iron heads versus aluminum.

If you build what I just told you...you will have a nasty small block making over 400hp and that will make your car one kick *** ride.

Here is my original 408 build. It has since been modified.

 

[gregsdart]

First off, my condolences on the loss of your son. If you would like to share your sons' name, please do.
On your build,I don't see any cam specs? Other details? I am really interested in the whole build. Sounds like a great base, good ring seal and fresh heads for starters. Lots of cubes for torque, one of my favorite things! How are the low speed manners? Type of trans? Looking to learn all I can from your work, here.
I started a cheap 5.9 magnum project, and if you look for my posts you will see how it got de railed into a full on build, and the budget got out of hand. I would some day like to try again on a Magnum 5.9, with the following restrictions for economy. Standard rockers and pushrods, stock crank, +.030 overbore cast replacement pistons, ( rehone only should I find a real good motor for a base!) EQ iron head castings with LA intake bolt pattern, an 800 cfm TQ carb on a stock intake from a 340 or similar, reground stock cam. Depending on the low rpm manners, or lack of, due to cam duration, my guess is 375 to 450 hp is a realistic end result with these restrictions. If a guy has luck scrounging a decent cast iron intake and carb plus tuning parts, I think it would come out pretty cheap, compared to most builds.

 

[diymirage]

just curious, your number is close to what i paid for my MRL 408
(426 HP and 470 ft-lbs)
and that is with an "of the self" camshaft
(well, it was off the shelf a year before, when i refreshed the engine, and it carried over into the 408)

 

[BrianT]

Thanks for starting this thread. I'll be following along.

 

[mpd12150]

just curious, your number is close to what i paid for my MRL 408
(426 HP and 470 ft-lbs)
and that is with an "of the self" camshaft
(well, it was off the shelf a year before, when i refreshed the engine, and it carried over into the 408)

Sorry for delay, just noticed your message. I'm not sure I fully understand your response?

If you cam works for you then by all means run it. I have built countless engines using off the shelf cams and since having a custom done, I am very happy and will continue to use Bullet Cams going forward.

Like I said, I am not an expert by any means and welcome the education anyone wants to share.

Good numbers on your build, by the way. I have since moved on with a set of 2.02/1.60 fully ported and polished J heads with port matched airgap intake....to say the difference was impressive would be an understatement.

 

[diymirage]

Sorry for delay, just noticed your message. I'm not sure I fully understand your response?

If you cam works for you then by all means run it. I have built countless engines using off the shelf cams and since having a custom done, I am very happy and will continue to use Bullet Cams going forward.

i guess where i was coming from was the emphasis you placed on a custom grind cam and that was the one thing i skipped in my build, and i came up with slightly more power at about the same cost

so i was wondering what the big deal was

Good numbers on your build, by the way. I have since moved on with a set of 2.02/1.60 fully ported and polished J heads with port matched airgap intake....to say the difference was impressive would be an understatement.

now were getting somewhere
im pretty sure im running J heads too, but mine were opened up to the larger valves and Mike, who build my engine did quite a bit of massaging to both the heads and the weiand action plus

so looking back, maybe my engine had an advantage over your in the heads department
it would be interesting to see what numbers your making right now, that your heads are able to flow what the cam needs

was the airgap on there from the beginning and just matched now, or did you change out intakes?

 

[gregsdart]

As far as shelf versus custom cams, small cube/big valve motors, like a 318 with 2.02 intakes, would like most shelf cams since that combo favors wide lobe Seperation angles, and a lot of shelf cams can be had with wide LSAs. Move up to 408 cubes and the same heads, now that combo wants a narrow LSA to feed all those cubes at overlap. But, a Thumpr cam happens to have a narrow LSA just to get the sound, but it also happens to work well in strokers.

 

[Trophywa]

Awesome build very curious about the internal balanced scat kit. I'm building a 408 also, but with EQ 1.97/1.62 heads. I called Lunati and went with their recommendation. Mine will be in front of a nv4500 tranny. My big hold up is the flywheel, with an internally balanced assembly should I use a neutral flywheel and neutral balanced damper? Any help is appreciated.

 

[rumblefish360]

Awesome build very curious about the internal balanced scat kit. I'm building a 408 also, but with EQ 1.97/1.62 heads. I called Lunati and went with their recommendation. Mine will be in front of a nv4500 tranny. My big hold up is the flywheel, with an internally balanced assembly should I use a neutral flywheel and neutral balanced damper? Any help is appreciated.

Have the whole thing done that way all at the same time. The machinist should want your crank, rods, Pistons, pins, (spiral locks) rings, bearings, harmonic balancer and flexplate/fly wheel to balance together as one unit.

 

[rumblefish360]

As far as shelf versus custom cams, small cube/big valve motors, like a 318 with 2.02 intakes, would like most shelf cams since that combo favors wide lobe Seperation angles, and a lot of shelf cams can be had with wide LSAs. Move up to 408 cubes and the same heads, now that combo wants a narrow LSA to feed all those cubes at overlap. But, a Thumpr cam happens to have a narrow LSA just to get the sound, but it also happens to work well in strokers.

Excellent notation.

To all newbies and cam rookies;

Keep in mind that you can call the grinder to adjust the cam your looking at in the book. If it says it has a 110 C-line and you want a 106, call them and ask!

Cams in the Catolog have not changed in there thought pattern in decades. (Grinders thoughts) Then came along fuel injection with the need to widen the C-line to at least 112 with 114 being more helpful for the computers to grasp what is going on.

The aftermarket settled on a 110 for its sound and the normally found stock displacements of factory offerings. It worked well. There was a "No big deal" attitude towards 2*'s adjustment to go up for a 360 or down to a 318. Add 40-50 cubic inches and the better acting cams are no longer shelf cams because the custom grinder that actually knows what is going on can adjust the timing events to suite.

Nothing wrong with a shelf cam. But everything should be better when the cam, custom speced, suites the engine and what it is supposed to do.

 

[Trophywa]

Thanks rumblefish, the assembly I have has been internally balanced just not with the damper and flywheel. If I use a neutral damper and fly wheel will I still need to have a machinist go over it again? I've put 318,000 miles on the external balanced 360, I'm sure this 408 has to be better than a factory balance? I'm way over budget on this thing and need to save for a tune still.

 

[yellow rose]

Thanks rumblefish, the assembly I have has been internally balanced just not with the damper and flywheel. If I use a neutral damper and fly wheel will I still need to have a machinist go over it again? I've put 318,000 miles on the external balanced 360, I'm sure this 408 has to be better than a factory balance? I'm way over budget on this thing and need to save for a tune still.

If it's a stick, there is no way I would balance it without the disc, flywheel and pressure plate.

You'd be surprised how far off a disc can be. Every time you bolt something on, it can and will change the balance job even if it's a zero balance deal. The only exception is some dampeners can be bolted on and not balanced as long as they are internally balanced to start with.

 

[Trophywa]

I understand but if I smoke a flywheel and clutch and replace them, I've never rebalanced the assembly, but that has been on external balance motors, what gives?

 

[yellow rose]

I understand but if I smoke a flywheel and clutch and replace them, I've never rebalanced the assembly, but that has been on external balance motors, what gives?

Yup. That's a bad thing. I've had to put the old flywheel and pressure plate up on the balancer, mark everything so I had a reference and then checked to see where any out of balance was and then duplicated it on the new stuff.

That's as close as I know how to do it, without taking everything apart. So, it can be done.

Like I was saying, even if you get the flywheel end of the crank, say under 5 grams for a street deal and zero balance the FW/PP seperatly, it will change the crank when you bolt it on. Sometimes a little. I've seen as high as a 20 gram change.

Every builder I know gets the crank close and then puts the FW/PP on and finish it up.

 

[Trophywa]

Thank you for your help, very much appreciated. Guess I need another day of overtime and get it all to the machine shop. Could you comment on Lunati's cam choice. I have a M1 four barrel intake (efi). It's not a race truck just wanted some low to mid torque. Thanks again

 

[rumblefish360]

Oh that'll be a nice cam!

 

[autoxcuda]

Awesome build very curious about the internal balanced scat kit. I'm building a 408 also, but with EQ 1.97/1.62 heads. I called Lunati and went with their recommendation. Mine will be in front of a nv4500 tranny. My big hold up is the flywheel, with an internally balanced assembly should I use a neutral flywheel and neutral balanced damper? Any help is appreciated.

I run a internally balanced assembly cast scat kit. Balance is fine. They balance them in at their factory in Redondo Beach. That's where I picked my assembly up.

You can have your pressure plate and disc balanced separately.

 

[gregsdart]

Excellent notation.

To all newbies and cam rookies;

Keep in mind that you can call the grinder to adjust the cam your looking at in the book. If it says it has a 110 C-line and you want a 106, call them and ask!

Cams in the Catolog have not changed in there thought pattern in decades. (Grinders thoughts) Then came along fuel injection with the need to widen the C-line to at least 112 with 114 being more helpful for the computers to grasp what is going on.

The aftermarket settled on a 110 for its sound and the normally found stock displacements of factory offerings. It worked well. There was a "No big deal" attitude towards 2*'s adjustment to go up for a 360 or down to a 318. Add 40-50 cubic inches and the better acting cams are no longer shelf cams because the custom grinder that actually knows what is going on can adjust the timing events to suite.

Nothing wrong with a shelf cam. But everything should be better when the cam, custom speced, suites the engine and what it is supposed to do.

One other thing to consider; any cam with more exhaust duration than intake will act like a cam with a narrower LSA because in effect it is, save for the exhaust opening. To figure out how to truly compare cams in this situation, the difference in duration divided by four will give you the true comparison of sorts. Example; my mother thumpr cam is 235 int 249 ex. 107 lsa. But it has 14 degrees more exhaust duration. 14 / 4 = 3.5, So the overlap is the same as a cam cut on 103.5. No wonder they have a rough idle! One source of info on what really works for a 350 inch size motor is to look at Mopars cam offerings for circle track racing. They are all cut on narrow LSAs, even the smallest short track cams. They don't give a hoot about idle quality, it is all about torque coming off the corner.
OP, hope you don't mind the hijack! It builds your case for a custom cam though, because every engine size wants its' own lsa. Now back to the regularly scheduled program!

 

[12many]

The EQ heads have a good exhaust port and a single pattern vs. a split pattern cam could also be considered, based on many opinions. You could apply one theory (as one example that is out there BUT is not the be all and end all theory) from among others, David Vizard. You determine overlap for the application, and then using his LSA determination chart in his book "How To Build Horsepower" doing some calculating, the cylinder displacement of the 408 is 51 cubic inches, and the intake is 1.97, so that gives you 25.89 CI per inch of valve diameter. In his LSA chart that equates to a lobe separation angle of about 103! That combined with the overlap you decide on gives you the duration number and then you factor lift needed etc. Lots of research of theory, calculating and more research. And then you may have to maybe adjust the specs a little or a lot! It gets you in the general ball park of what cam specs you should be looking at based on a theory, reading and learning, if one cares to. Lots of theories by many, if you choose to go this route you have to pick one, a few, or better yet consider all theories and then put it all together and make a decision. It is much easier and saves a ton of time to let the experts do all that for you and not worry. But to learn as much as you can, maybe spec a cam on paper and then see what the experts recommend. Compare them, see how close you are or how wrong!

 

[flyfish]

Since you are welcoming critics, here are my 2 cents in regards to the cam. If you are looking at “budget” builds like yours, I don’t see the point in paying more for a custom cam…. Here is why. Your heads are basically stock, which means they can only support around 400 ish horse power (which you achieved). An off the shelf Cam would suffice. Cam selection has to do with the total package (e.g. power goal, compression, head flow, gearing, converter, etc.). I’m not saying there is anything wrong with getting a custom cam, I just don’t think that it is required. Reasons for a custom cam (in my opinion) would be if you are shooting for more of a Max effort type build.


Food for thought, although my 410 motor was not a “budget” build, it did have an off the shelf small solid roller in it (comp XR286R). With power left on the table (on purpose), It ran mid 10’s.

 

[Trophywa]

This is the best info I've had since I started this build. Fabo is the best. Since I went waaaay over budget , will my 6300lbs. truck run 10's. Just kidding 12's, lmfao.

 

[Donny]

There seems to be several posts asking questions about building a 408 but wanting to maintain a budget while obtain the most performance one can get.

I am by no means an expert and I welcome anyone and everyone to correct me at any point, but I have been asked by a few members to post my build specs for the 408 I just finished building that will be going into my son's 69 Dart GT that is a memorial build for my 19 year old son who was killer July 4, 2015.

I will start off by giving the numbers that I was able to obtain when it hit the dyno for break in and tune. I was able to obtain 413HP and 463 Torque. The following is the build specifics that I used and I am confident there are many others on here that can add to this post with great information and I welcome it. This entire ground up car build is being done on a very restrictive budget as I am a disabled and forcibly retired police officer so...to say the funds are tight is a significant understatement. I hope this helps others understand that you can build a very powerful stroked 408 without the need for very expensive aluminum heads and other high dollar parts. The key was quality on a budget. Here ya go and I do hope this helps. I will gladly answer any and all questions or private messages.

I started with a 1978 360 that was a mess. I disassembled the engine and sent the block off to be taken care of. The block was obviously cooked and cleaned. It had brass expansion plugs installed as well as new oiling plugs. I installed new cam bearings and had the cylinders torque plate honed after boring .30 over. I had it decked but just for straightness....not zero decked.

The rotating assembly is internally balanced Skat set up with a cast crank, forged I beam rods and forged Icon Flat top pistons. I used a Meiling standard volume oil pump, you DO NOT need a high volume oil pump. I used a Cloyes Double Roller timing chain...the one I used was about $65. Now...here is here is the very most important....CAM SHAFT!!

DO NOT use an off the shelf cam. Go to the Bullet cams website, www.bulletcams.com, move the cursor over the contact tab, and it will drop down cam selection. Click that link and it will be a fill in the blank page and you will need to fill it out to your specifications. Once you send it off to Bullet, they will contact you via email. I dealt with Tim Langly and he is a great guy who knows what he is talking about. It will cost you about $350 for the cam and lifters and yes, you can get one cheaper, but you will hate yourself. CONTACT BULLET and have them build you a custom grind. (there are several companies that will do a custom cam built for you, I used Bullet and I can speak to their product, I am sure there are many other guys on here that can recommend another company but this was my build and that is the power it made)

As for the heads, I am using a set of 1973 small valve 360 heads from a Challenger. These heads are nothing great. They have a set of springs good for .500 lift and that is it...besides a valve job. I have ZERO port work at all.

I am running 1.5 Mopar Performance Full Billit Roller Rockers and Comp Cams pushrods, they are nothing special for push rods, but spend good money on roller rockers...don't mess around with that.

I am running an Edelbrock Performer intake...nothing special with that....again...no porting at all.

I am running a Quick Fuel Slayer Series 750 CFM carb, when I had the engine dyno tuned they did some jet changing.

That is the build....I have about $4500 and that includes the dyno tune and I HIGHLY recommend that dyno work. When you have it on the dyno, they break it in properly, make sure it is oiling well and cooling as well. It is a controlled environment and it is being broke in and tuned by people who know what they are doing. Spend the money...it is money well spent. I spent about $670 but I had to had my distributor rebuilt as well. The dyno was a former Rosch Racing Dyno...for whatever that is worth.

As for the distributor and ignition, I am using a electronic distributor...nothing special. You do not need to spend insane money for MSD distributors, however I am using a MSD 6AL and a good set of Accel wires and thats that.

My engine makes 413hp and 463 torque. I know I left ALLOT of power on the table by not having a set of worked heads but this is a nasty little small block. It is reliable and makes bitchin power. I do intend on sending the set of 1978 heads from this engine off and have them worked for bigger valves and have a mild port and polish job done. It will cost me right around $900 to have this done but I will also have a well over 500hp iron head small block and that is my goal. I want to build 500hp iron head engines and prove you do not need Aluminum heads or any high dollar heads. People will argue that spending $900 to have iron heads worked is a waste...and that is entirely their opinion. I am an old school kind of guy even though I am only 44. I like iron heads versus aluminum.

If you build what I just told you...you will have a nasty small block making over 400hp and that will make your car one kick *** ride.

Here is my original 408 build. It has since been modified.

I'm gonna post my build just so people get an idea, I too did an engine dyno and cannot recommend it enough, they break it in and find problems before you do while it's in the car needing to be removed again.

360 -1992 Magnum stroker 408 build
10.25 or 10.50 compression, I don't recall exactly at the moment. Not it makes that big a difference.
Edelbrock performer heads -work done at Modern Cyl Head in Michigan
--see pic attached
crank = BPE FS -002a-4000 (4343 forged, same as k1)
Pistons = icon (2618 forged, 20cc)
Rods = scat (4340 forged i beam, 7/16 AARP bolts)
Rings = mahle
Main bolts = ARP
Head bolts =ARP magnum 360 head bolts
Damper = Dorman, light weight stock 340 nuetral balance
oil pump = melling (std volume)
timing chain = SK, .250 double roller
cam = drane billet steel with iron gear .236 .050 .574lift 110LS, 1.6 rocker ratio
lifters = MP hydraulic
mean bearings = King
rod bearings = King
cam bearings = MP
Tensioner = MP
head gskt = cometic
intake = MP original style M1 (ported) sinlge plane
intake bolts = mp
rocker arms = summit scorpion race rockers
pushrods = howards (5/16 oil thru .080 wall 7.1)
water pump = carter
3/4 block fill
Carb = APD 950
Running 904 trans, rebuilt.
8.75 rear, 4.10s for now.

Dyno hp = 484 @ 5750 IIRC
Dyno tq = 495 @ 4850 IIRC didn't get dyno sheet for some reason gong by memory

The general feel is that this motor will create more HP/TQ with solid lifters and probaby spin at 6300-6500.

Cam card and head flow numbers attached

This car weighs 3290 with me in it, all steel. The goal is a nice street strip car that could turn a number around 11.30ish. Most people feel it will with those power numbers, some feel much quicker, we will see. Caltracks, 4 wheel disc. It should in the least be a very drivable car. Will probably put 3.73 rear gear in it to tame it down if it's too much with 4.10s.

View attachment 1715083355

 

[o1heavy]

I'm gonna post my build just so people get an idea, I too did an engine dyno and cannot recommend it enough, they break it in and find problems before you do while it's in the car needing to be removed again.

360 Magnum stroker 408 build
Edelbrock performer heads -work done at Modern Cyl Head in Michigan
--see pic attached
crank = BPE FS -002a-4000 (4343 forged, same as k1)
Pistons = icon (2618 forged, 20cc)
Rods = scat (4340 forged i beam, 7/16 AARP bolts)
Rings = mahle
Main bolts = ARP
Head bolts =ARP magnum 360 head bolts
Damper = Dorman, light weight stock 340 nuetral balance
oil pump = melling (std volume)
timing chain = SK, .250 double roller
cam = drane billet steel with iron gear .236 .050 .574lift 110LS, 1.6 rocker ratio
lifters = MP hydraulic
mean bearings = King
rod bearings = King
cam bearings = MP
Tensioner = MP
head gskt = cometic
intake = MP original style M1 (ported) sinlge plane
intake bolts = mp
rocker arms = summit scorpion race rockers
pushrods = howards (5/16 oil thru .080 wall 7.1)
water pump = carter
3/4 block fill
Carb = APD 950
Running 904 trans, rebuilt.
8.75 rear, 4.10s for now.

Dyno hp = 484 @ 5750 IIRC
Dyno tq = 495 @ 4850 IIRC didn't get dyno sheet for some reason gong by memory

The general feel is that this motor will create more HP/TQ with solid lifters and probaby spin at 6300-6500.

Cam card and head flow numbers attached

This car weighs 3290 with me in it, all steel. The goal is a nice street strip car that could turn a number around 11.30ish. Most people feel it will with those power numbers, some feel much quicker, we will see. Caltracks, 4 wheel disc. It should in the least be a very drivable car. Will probably put 3.73 rear gear in it to tame it down if it's too much with 4.10s.

View attachment 1715083354

View attachment 1715083355

View attachment 1715083356

Curious about your E.T's

 

[Donny]

Curious about your E.T's

Car has not hit pavement yet

 

[yellow rose]

I'm gonna post my build just so people get an idea, I too did an engine dyno and cannot recommend it enough, they break it in and find problems before you do while it's in the car needing to be removed again.

360 Magnum stroker 408 build
Edelbrock performer heads -work done at Modern Cyl Head in Michigan
--see pic attached
crank = BPE FS -002a-4000 (4343 forged, same as k1)
Pistons = icon (2618 forged, 20cc)
Rods = scat (4340 forged i beam, 7/16 AARP bolts)
Rings = mahle
Main bolts = ARP
Head bolts =ARP magnum 360 head bolts
Damper = Dorman, light weight stock 340 nuetral balance
oil pump = melling (std volume)
timing chain = SK, .250 double roller
cam = drane billet steel with iron gear .236 .050 .574lift 110LS, 1.6 rocker ratio
lifters = MP hydraulic
mean bearings = King
rod bearings = King
cam bearings = MP
Tensioner = MP
head gskt = cometic
intake = MP original style M1 (ported) sinlge plane
intake bolts = mp
rocker arms = summit scorpion race rockers
pushrods = howards (5/16 oil thru .080 wall 7.1)
water pump = carter
3/4 block fill
Carb = APD 950
Running 904 trans, rebuilt.
8.75 rear, 4.10s for now.

Dyno hp = 484 @ 5750 IIRC
Dyno tq = 495 @ 4850 IIRC didn't get dyno sheet for some reason gong by memory

The general feel is that this motor will create more HP/TQ with solid lifters and probaby spin at 6300-6500.

Cam card and head flow numbers attached

This car weighs 3290 with me in it, all steel. The goal is a nice street strip car that could turn a number around 11.30ish. Most people feel it will with those power numbers, some feel much quicker, we will see. Caltracks, 4 wheel disc. It should in the least be a very drivable car. Will probably put 3.73 rear gear in it to tame it down if it's too much with 4.10s.

View attachment 1715083354

View attachment 1715083355

View attachment 1715083356

The flow chart shows why most heads don't need a dual pattern cam.