Budget Build 5.9 for a 71 Scamp

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michiganpat said:
my old 5th ave was cranky and didn't like to start when temps got under 20 with an air gap and 600 electric choke edlebrock carb.....will F/M/J exhaust manifolds fit? they might be easier to find with a heat stove than a 55 year old A body one.....
Click to expand...
I have no idea. I have headers and no heat stove.
 
ScampNYC said:
Hey guys, I had another thread called "What to Do with My Scamp" in which I described how I have a slant- six equipped 71 Scamp with oil pressure problems.

View attachment 1716477104


At the end of that thread, I decided to pick up a 5.9 Magnum to replace the worn slant six.


View attachment 1716477105


In this thread, I want to chronicle my build and ask some questions along the way.

My goals with this build and swap is to do it as cheap as reasonably possible. I also want to have the engine make decent power, but have great street manners. I have done the hot rod thing, I've had a 440 4 speed, multiple cars with lumpy cam and headers, and this time I want to make something that has good torque but is fairly civilize and super reliable.

Actually, what I really want is for this Scamp to be a dependable, comfortable daily driver.

I'd like:
- Around 300 hp
- Air conditioning
- Power steering
- Cast iron manifolds! Yes, that's right.
- Hoping to reuse my rotating assembly (crank, cam, piston, rods, roller lifters)

Right now my spend is:
$375 for the motor.

Tonight I started tearing it apart. It looks a little sludgey in there, more than I was expecting. Hopefully the bores look okay. The motor had 101k miles, according to the junkyard.

View attachment 1716477106


As I start pricing out all the needed parts, I am really shocked to find that the motor itself is pretty much going to be the cheapest part of the build! Crazy that an aluminum intake is now $500. Last time I did this, they were $300.

One thing that really has me worried is the accessory drive. This may break the bank!
I'm looking at a complete set up — initially I was hoping to run the factory Magnum serpentine setup but from what I understand, to do that you have to run the Magnum timing cover, which means no mechanical fuel pump. I'd rather not have an electric fuel pump buzzing away. Is it true I can't use the Magnum belt bracketry with the LA timing cover?
Looking at Bouchillon and CVF, I am at about $1000 or $1400 plus tax, respectively, for a complete bracket and pulley set up, including the AC compressor. Any alternative ideas that may get my my goals be cheaper?
Click to expand...
This is the build I'd emulate. J.Rob
ScampNYC said:
Hey guys, I had another thread called "What to Do with My Scamp" in which I described how I have a slant- six equipped 71 Scamp with oil pressure problems.

View attachment 1716477104


At the end of that thread, I decided to pick up a 5.9 Magnum to replace the worn slant six.


View attachment 1716477105


In this thread, I want to chronicle my build and ask some questions along the way.

My goals with this build and swap is to do it as cheap as reasonably possible. I also want to have the engine make decent power, but have great street manners. I have done the hot rod thing, I've had a 440 4 speed, multiple cars with lumpy cam and headers, and this time I want to make something that has good torque but is fairly civilize and super reliable.

Actually, what I really want is for this Scamp to be a dependable, comfortable daily driver.

I'd like:
- Around 300 hp
- Air conditioning
- Power steering
- Cast iron manifolds! Yes, that's right.
- Hoping to reuse my rotating assembly (crank, cam, piston, rods, roller lifters)

Right now my spend is:
$375 for the motor.

Tonight I started tearing it apart. It looks a little sludgey in there, more than I was expecting. Hopefully the bores look okay. The motor had 101k miles, according to the junkyard.

View attachment 1716477106


As I start pricing out all the needed parts, I am really shocked to find that the motor itself is pretty much going to be the cheapest part of the build! Crazy that an aluminum intake is now $500. Last time I did this, they were $300.

One thing that really has me worried is the accessory drive. This may break the bank!
I'm looking at a complete set up — initially I was hoping to run the factory Magnum serpentine setup but from what I understand, to do that you have to run the Magnum timing cover, which means no mechanical fuel pump. I'd rather not have an electric fuel pump buzzing away. Is it true I can't use the Magnum belt bracketry with the LA timing cover?
Looking at Bouchillon and CVF, I am at about $1000 or $1400 plus tax, respectively, for a complete bracket and pulley set up, including the AC compressor. Any alternative ideas that may get my my goals be cheaper?
Click to expand...
R

Thread '360 TrueStreet Magnum Build'

Its been awhile since I've posted anything useful or remotely interesting. I recently acquired a 360 Magnum core that once resided in a Jeep Grand Cherokee, at least that's what the guy I bought it from told me. I never say no to a 360 core if its the right price and not too far gone. So after sitting on it awhile trying to figure out what to do with it I've finally settled on a plan.

The plan is to build a really nice mild street engine on a fairly tight budget using as many of the OEM parts as possible. The goals are maximum bang for the buck on Canadian pump gas whether it is 87-91...
  • Thanks!
  • Like

Copy this build ^^^^^^^ J.Rob
 
RAMM said:
This is the build I'd emulate. J.Rob

R

Thread '360 TrueStreet Magnum Build'

Its been awhile since I've posted anything useful or remotely interesting. I recently acquired a 360 Magnum core that once resided in a Jeep Grand Cherokee, at least that's what the guy I bought it from told me. I never say no to a 360 core if its the right price and not too far gone. So after sitting on it awhile trying to figure out what to do with it I've finally settled on a plan.

The plan is to build a really nice mild street engine on a fairly tight budget using as many of the OEM parts as possible. The goals are maximum bang for the buck on Canadian pump gas whether it is 87-91...
  • Thanks!
  • Like

Copy this build ^^^^^^^ J.Rob
Click to expand...

Hey, great build, just read it, thanks J. Rob. Curious, what did you do for a head gasket? A thin one or a thick one?


Also, on the subject of the heated air intake:
I still like the idea of trying this, and I actually have found (i think) a heat stove for an a-body manifold. But the trouble is, to get a 4 barrel snorkel air cleaner that has the thermostatic flap is more difficult than I imagined... most I find are for 2bbl. Does anyone have a 4bbl snorkel air cleaner for sale?
 
ScampNYC said:
Hey, great build, just read it, thanks J. Rob. Curious, what did you do for a head gasket? A thin one or a thick one?


Also, on the subject of the heated air intake:
I still like the idea of trying this, and I actually have found (i think) a heat stove for an a-body manifold. But the trouble is, to get a 4 barrel snorkel air cleaner that has the thermostatic flap is more difficult than I imagined... most I find are for 2bbl. Does anyone have a 4bbl snorkel air cleaner for sale?
Click to expand...
see if you can find any mid-late C bodies or cordobas?
 
ScampNYC said:
Hey. So the block and heads are at the machine shop right now getting the full treatment. The cam is in Oregon for its regrind. Right now all I have to do is plan and shop for more parts.

Right now I am thinking about ways to up the drivability of the car. Remember, I’m not building a hot rod, more of a spirited driver. Dependability is very important on this build and I’d like my wife to enjoy driving it too. So I’m thinking about cold starts and warm ups. With the air gap manifold, of course I won’t have the warm up benefits of the exhaust crossover passage. But I’m wondering if it’s worth trying to get a warm air intake set up going, the way they did from the factory. I’m hoping that the hot air, combined with the electric choke, will make those cold morning start ups less of an ordeal, even for someone like my wife who has very little experience with carburetors.

Only thing is, all the A body driver side exhaust manifolds i see don’t have any kind of “stove” on top of them. Does anyone know what the factory did for a heat stove on v8 a bodies? Or is this not even worth persuing?

Also, any other bright ideas on the topics of drivability outside of just how the engine is set up (carb, cam choice, etc) The AC will be a must.

View attachment 1716483627
Click to expand...
The exact manifolds that you need are for sale right now in the parts section. Better grab em while you can and all you'll need is the heat stove thingy!
 
I found some manifolds nearby. And a heat stove! So we are all good on that front.

A question came up for me. I am planning to clean and reuse my oil pump because it measures in spec. I am consulting my FSM and it says to drill and use a sheet metal screw to remove the retainer cap on the relief valve. Then you of course have to replace the retainer cap. Does anyone know where I can find a retainer cap? OR, do you think I can just skpi this step? I'd like to be thorough, but curious if you guys think this is necessary.

IMG_3881.jpg


IMG_3882.jpg
 
ScampNYC said:
I found some manifolds nearby. And a heat stove! So we are all good on that front.

A question came up for me. I am planning to clean and reuse my oil pump because it measures in spec. I am consulting my FSM and it says to drill and use a sheet metal screw to remove the retainer cap on the relief valve. Then you of course have to replace the retainer cap. Does anyone know where I can find a retainer cap? OR, do you think I can just skpi this step? I'd like to be thorough, but curious if you guys think this is necessary.

View attachment 1716486664

View attachment 1716486663
Click to expand...
 
So, I mic'ed my crank and all the journals look like they have pretty much ZERO wear which is great.
I'm planing to polish the journals myself with some 320 grit sandpaper.
Question, a book I'm referencing recommends chamfering these oiling holes. They have some factory chamfering. Wondering if I should do or skip this step? Again, this will not be a high0revving racecar, just build for torque and durability.
I kind of don't want to touch it because I feel like I could mess it up and ruin my crank, also, it will produce some dust that i'll have to be sure to clean even more.
But, if its easy and a good move, even for a 300hp build, I am down to do it and have the tools needed.
View attachment 1716486941
IMG_3886 (1).jpg
 
ScampNYC said:
So, I mic'ed my crank and all the journals look like they have pretty much ZERO wear which is great.
I'm planing to polish the journals myself with some 320 grit sandpaper.
Question, a book I'm referencing recommends chamfering these oiling holes. They have some factory chamfering. Wondering if I should do or skip this step? Again, this will not be a high0revving racecar, just build for torque and durability.
I kind of don't want to touch it because I feel like I could mess it up and ruin my crank, also, it will produce some dust that i'll have to be sure to clean even more.
But, if its easy and a good move, even for a 300hp build, I am down to do it and have the tools needed.
View attachment 1716486941View attachment 1716486942
Click to expand...
I wouldn't mess with it.
 
I wouldn't mess with it either. If I was going to polish the journals, I would try to find something a whole lot finer than 320 grit.
 
My crank looked similar. Guy at the machine shop said don’t mess with it. Realistically you gain nothing by polishing it and risk messing it up
 
Just make sure the bearing clearance is good. I think the factory spec is 0.0005-0.002” or so. I remember mine being around 0.0015”
 
ScampNYC said:
So, I mic'ed my crank and all the journals look like they have pretty much ZERO wear which is great.
I'm planing to polish the journals myself with some 320 grit sandpaper.
Question, a book I'm referencing recommends chamfering these oiling holes. They have some factory chamfering. Wondering if I should do or skip this step? Again, this will not be a high0revving racecar, just build for torque and durability.
I kind of don't want to touch it because I feel like I could mess it up and ruin my crank, also, it will produce some dust that i'll have to be sure to clean even more.
But, if its easy and a good move, even for a 300hp build, I am down to do it and have the tools needed.
View attachment 1716486941View attachment 1716486942
Click to expand...
Mine looked like that and the shop ground it 0.010-0.010, said it was rough.

Was cheap and I was buying new bearings anyway
 
remytherat said:
My crank looked similar. Guy at the machine shop said don’t mess with it. Realistically you gain nothing by polishing it and risk messing it up
Click to expand...
Have it professionally polished, if the pro deems grinding necessary..or not then. Trust your pro. You can f-up the finish in a heartbeat, polishing yourself. You also need to be able to measure ovality or OOR. This takes micrometers and feel and interpretation. It's likely the crank is good but I hate doing things barely once let alone twice. The pics make me think the crank may need some pro help..is all. J.Rob
 
remytherat said:
Realistically you gain nothing by polishing it and risk messing it up
Click to expand...

RAMM said:
Have it professionally polished, if the pro deems grinding necessary..or not then. Trust your pro. You can f-up the finish in a heartbeat, polishing yourself.
Click to expand...

^^^ this

you can **** up more than you can fix real quick with these things.
 

Yeah, I got the idea from my How To Rebuild a Small Block Mopar book. They said to do it at home using 320 grit, which now that I think about it does seem pretty coarse…
 
Hey, so I am going to be getting back the block and heads this week.

I'm wondering what level of cleaning I should do on the block and heads once I get them home. The machine shop was going to replace all the freeze plugs and oil galley plugs. so those will be on the motor.

But, with temps outside in the 30s now, what do you think I should do for a final cleaning? I'm reading about pressure washers, but is there anything that can be done indoors?
 
if they hot tanked it and knocked in new cam bearings, then you should really only need to wipe down the bores and give a spritz to the other bits and bobs.

i'm a little obsessive and always double check the oil galleys with a quick brush and then blow out.
 
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