Bummer
Building a new 505 With Callies / Mopar Performance Block
- Thread starter SMCARNUT
- Start date
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Bummer
On pushrods, calculating any future cuts on the heads, even a .010 cleanup, should be considered. If you have rockers that mount to a bar, then shims can bail you out if you need a little shorter push rod. If not, then aiming for the short side by a touch is a good idea. I like 7/16 dual tapered pushrods, and they handle 350 SEAT and 950 over the nose springs well . Buy the best once! And if rhe extra $$ you spend only gains you five hp, which you probably will not know you got, consider what you might spend down the road in terms of $ per hp. Had i followed this thought process over my fifty years of hobby racing, i would be probably running 7.50s instead of 8.50s
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I like using 7/16 pushrods if they fit. Not so sure they'll fit on a TF head without grinding though. A 3/8 pushrod should fit. The dual taper is nice but expensive. Another option is the Smith Bros or Manton style where the pushrod body is straight but then they use long ends with a taper that provide extra clearance. The nice thing about that style of pushrod is that down the road you can have them cut down and put different ends in them. The dual taper pushrods can't be remade into a different length so you have to buy new ones again.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
You can shorten the double taper pushrods. It just leaves a lip where they cut them down.
I am taking the heads to machine shop to get .040 taken off of the deck surface and .048 off of the intake surface this weekend. Then I will remeasure pushrods when they are back on the block without checking springs. Hopefully I will get them back in the next week or two. Most shops are really busy. I will keep everyone posted.
I am leaning towards Manton or Smith Brothers for the pushrods once the length is confirmed after the heads come back from the machine shop.
I am leaning towards Manton or Smith Brothers for the pushrods once the length is confirmed after the heads come back from the machine shop.
Definitely double check the length, when I surfaced my trickflows .080 my pushrods still worked with the hs rockers. I think the 3/8 is a good fit in the tf heads. Originally I ran a hd 5/16 and they were showing stress marks from deflection I assume.
Test fit the new timing cover today. That is about it until heads are delivered and come back from machine shop.
That's nice.
Went to the Walter P Chrysler swap meet today to meet up with a friend. Talked to few Fabo members. Found a couple of things. I did pick up one of Andy's cam buttons from Mancini Racing.
I finally got my cam bolts machined / installed / Loctited and torqued.
Now I am checking the end play for the camshaft I have .028 I am using a .032 thick gasket. Looks like I will need a .020 shim.
Anyone have a source for them? I am using an AR 281 cam button and AR 224 timing cover.
Now I am checking the end play for the camshaft I have .028 I am using a .032 thick gasket. Looks like I will need a .020 shim.
Anyone have a source for them? I am using an AR 281 cam button and AR 224 timing cover.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I have looked on his website and so far I do not see anything. I sent Andy a private message hopefully he will see it and let me know.
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I don't sell shims, we usually adjust end play buy using different timing chain cover gaskets. Superformance used to sell a bunch of different gaskets so that was the easy way. I've never run into one that needed that thick of a shim but if that is what you need then take a look at McMaster Carr. They have a very large collection of small ring shims.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr
Andy
I have the thinnest gasket I could find .032. I will check with McMaster car. Thanks for the information.
I have the thinnest gasket I could find .032. I will check with McMaster car. Thanks for the information.
I think you should double check everything since the cam button is designed to give the proper clearance with an 0.031 gasket. Do you have the plug installed in the back of the block? Is the oil pump shaft installed? Is the cam button properly assembled? All surfaces clean? Timing cover torqued down? Lots of things stack up in that tolerance but I've never seen on that far off.
Andy
The cam plug is out. Brand new Mopar block timing cover surface is clean, new timing cover surface is clean. New gasket measures .032 before torquing. Oil pump shaft is installed. The timing cover is torqued down to the block. Cam button is properly assembled using break in oil for lubrication it measures .640 assembled. The only thing that maybe throwing off the measurement is there a specific torque for the torx bolts for the cover or access plate also the o rings are installed in the cover if that makes a difference.
Edited added cam button assembly.
Cam button. Item one fits snugly (slight tap to make it seat completely) in the cam gear, then shim item two is installed, then item three thrust bearing is installed, then shim item four installed and last top piece item 5 installed with the bevel pointed to access plate.
The cam plug is out. Brand new Mopar block timing cover surface is clean, new timing cover surface is clean. New gasket measures .032 before torquing. Oil pump shaft is installed. The timing cover is torqued down to the block. Cam button is properly assembled using break in oil for lubrication it measures .640 assembled. The only thing that maybe throwing off the measurement is there a specific torque for the torx bolts for the cover or access plate also the o rings are installed in the cover if that makes a difference.
Edited added cam button assembly.
Cam button. Item one fits snugly (slight tap to make it seat completely) in the cam gear, then shim item two is installed, then item three thrust bearing is installed, then shim item four installed and last top piece item 5 installed with the bevel pointed to access plate.
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Mcmaster Carr had the hardened spring steel shims in stock bought .010, .015 and .020. They only had the 25 packs of shims in stock. Now I have plenty for any future projects. Lol
I used a .020 and now I have .008 camshaft end play. Heads will be ready to pick up sometime next week so I can continue with this project.
I used a .020 and now I have .008 camshaft end play. Heads will be ready to pick up sometime next week so I can continue with this project.
Almost party time
Oiling system parts are not shipping until March. After I pay for the heads to get machined, paying for the oiling system part's that are on order and get pushrods on order my budget is done for now.
But on the bright side the motor is starting to look like a motor. lol
But on the bright side the motor is starting to look like a motor. lol
You could raise your debt ceiling lol
Heads may be done on Friday fingers crossed.
PRH
Well-Known Member
That’s the same head surfacer I have.
Picked up the heads from Valley Performance in Michigan on Wednesday. They did a great job had them take .040 off of deck surface and .048 off of the intake surface.
Had them check out the heads while they were there. They said the guides were a little tight, so they opened them up. They did a nice job and chamfered all the bolt holes etc so they are ready to bolt on. I will be back on this project in a week or two so I will post some pictures then.
Had them check out the heads while they were there. They said the guides were a little tight, so they opened them up. They did a nice job and chamfered all the bolt holes etc so they are ready to bolt on. I will be back on this project in a week or two so I will post some pictures then.
Since the oiling system parts will not be here for another month decided to test fit windage tray and oil pan. Plenty of crankshaft clearance.
Installed balance and timing pointer. I ordered the wrong balancer bolt the long one needed the short one. No big problem. Just another run to summit. LOL
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