Caltracs vs Slide A link Vs SS springs

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DusterBoy15

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i need to raise my rear so i can fit my tires, but i also want the best traction i can get. Will using cal tracs or slide a link help me fit my rear tire under the car? If not im guessing i should just go SS. Also i heard of people making their own slide a link and caltracs. How do i do this? home made Slide a link looks alot easier to make so please help im TOTALY open with this one when it comes to any info
 
Theres a thread like this, if not a almost identical title around here somewhere discussing the same thing. Except raising the rear wasn't the main topic.

Rasie the rear via S/S springs or a new set from a company like ESPO.com and order them 1 or 2 inch over.
 
well i heard you cant use SS and the others together so this is why im confused on what to do, but i will look some more


BUT DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO MAKE THESE??
 
Can't use the S/S and what? Cal tracs?
 
sorry bout that. yes i heard alot say you cant and only a few say you can, but i would like to make my own slide a link if i had some instructions on how to or pay some one to make them for me
 
FYI;

I've seen small and big block cars run low 10's with S/S springs and a snubber only.
 
ook, jjust heard that even with homade caltracs that the times would be more consitant..

And if the SS springs make it so their is more weight on the tires for more traction would this be the same with and Leaf springs like the ones from Jc whitney with the bend in them to raise the car
 
And if the SS springs make it so their is more weight on the tires for more traction would this be the same with and Leaf springs like the ones from Jc whitney with the bend in them to raise the car
Click to expand...

The S/S springs are heavier due to more leafs. Not the metal used or made heavier on purpose for traction. Traction is gained when the drivetrain and suspension is set up right, the rears center section rotates and bends the springs forcing the tires to the floor. The rear end of the car rises at this point. If it squats, it's wrong. GM's squat, thats there design.

You should have the chassis book from Mopar where inside they explaintis well. It is to lengthy here to type out an explain.

I have no clue about JC Whitney springs. I know nothing about them.
 
ok thanks Rumble.. will be going SS and maybe make my own cal tracs later or slide a link to see if theres any improvemnt and if not, i will sell them to someone who really needs them
 
You should really consider just using a MP adjustable pinion snubber with the SS springs and longer race shocks (25" extended height per MP chassis book) first. the hole set up cost about the same as Caltracs : $340

The caltrac site recommends using the special sliding mono leaf springs they make. The way the caltrac system works is the spring supports car in elevation while the caltrac bars resist the rotation force of the rear upon acceleration and basically turns it into down force forcing the rear wheels and tires into the ground.

The MOPAR SS spring, pinion snubber setup does the same thing: the springs resist axles rotation and the snubber reacts the force to focre the wheels into the ground!

Basically, caltracs are for Fords and chevy's with leaf springs and MP SS springs and Pinion snubber is for MOPARS. Some MOPAR class and bracket racers feel they get a more consistant ET's using caltrac bars and springs, unless your car is leaving real hard and fast (1.5 second 60' times or better) I doubt you will much difference.

Bob
 
raising the rear isnt the ticket for traction. Get the right size tire. I dont like SS springs mainly because they make the car sit way to high and lopsided. I would wait and see if you have a traction problem first before spending money on parts you may not need. AbodyJoes 71 Dart was pulling the front tire with stock slant 6 springs and air shock running a short 26" tire and 391 gears. His car runs low 12s.
 
hi, please do not use any traction bars with S/S springs. they will cancel each other out and will bend and twist housing. also, the comment was made about the mopars using caltracs. I guess those stocker and some S/S racers must not know very much as you do!!!! they seem to be very quick and consistent with their caltracs!! there is a few with records from 9.70 to 10.18 on caltracs and 9 " tires!! the snubber wil beat the rear floor pan to hell from use!! plus will cause the quarters to buckle .thats one reason, why some of us stocker mopars went to caltracs.
 
You can run cal-tracs with a set of stock worn out a-body leaf springs. We had a 10 inch tire car running high 9's on such a set up. Are the cal-trac split mono's better? Probably.

You are going to need a good set of shocks anyways so that's a wash in the expense column.

Plus, with cal-tracs, you won't end up with a stinkbug looking, bad riding, stiff as crap rear suspension car. If you need to raise the rear to fit a tire, get different wheels/tires to get them in the well would be my suggestion.

I'm doing a mini-tub and relocation kit on my 71 Duster now... it's getting a set of Cal-Trac style bars with the worn out A body springs.
 
the wheels i have are 15x8 with 4.500 back spacing and i will be using a 275/60 tire 28in tall with 4.10 gears.. also do they make an adjustable snuber for a 8 1/4? havent seen one
 
I have a snubber that fit the original 7.25 and fits the 8.25 I have in the car now. don't have any details on it, the PO gave it to me when I purchased the car.

You can likely just redrill the holes (if it's even necessary) of one for an 8.75.
 
Summitar said:
You should really consider just using a MP adjustable pinion snubber with the SS springs and longer race shocks (25" extended height per MP chassis book) first. the hole set up cost about the same as Caltracs : $340
Click to expand...

Yep, you get what you pay for - no doubt about that.

Summitar said:
The caltrac site recommends using the special sliding mono leaf springs they make. The way the caltrac system works is the spring supports car in elevation while the caltrac bars resist the rotation force of the rear upon acceleration and basically turns it into down force forcing the rear wheels and tires into the ground.
Click to expand...

Recommendations are just that - reccomendations. You didn't think they'd recommend using someone else's parts, did you?

Summitar said:
The MOPAR SS spring, pinion snubber setup does the same thing: the springs resist axles rotation and the snubber reacts the force to focre the wheels into the ground!
Click to expand...

Wow, a dynamically active snubber. That's a new one on me. Could you please explain this further? Don't understand how a snubber "reacts." Thought it was just a rubber bump stop preventing the pinion rising beyond a preset point under torque. Sounds interesting.

Summitar said:
Basically, caltracs are for Fords and chevy's with leaf springs and MP SS springs and Pinion snubber is for MOPARS. Some MOPAR class and bracket racers feel they get a more consistant ET's using caltrac bars and springs, unless your car is leaving real hard and fast (1.5 second 60' times or better) I doubt you will much difference.
Click to expand...

And also please explain exactly how is a Ford/Chevy leaf spring different from a Mopar leaf spring?

Inquiring minds want to know!
 
h340, just wondering if you knew you have to brace the floor where the pinion snubber makes contact?
 
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