Cam installation tools?

[Trevor B]

I have seen this cam installation tool referenced in the 1973 Dodge Chasis manual as well as the Larry Sheppard book.

Do you guys use this when installing the cam? I cannot seem to find one anywhere online or even a decent picture of one. Can I install without it and if so, how?

This is my very first cam swap and I really don't want to mess it up!

 

[70aarcuda]

I usually use both hands...and guide it thru the cam bearing. Or you can put a long bolt on the front of the cam for leverage.

Never seen one...

MILLER TOOL C-3509 CAMSHAFT GEAR INSTALLER

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MILLER-TOOL...hash=item1c510def8c&item=121618952076&vxp=mtr

now seen one

 

[IQ52]

Never used that tool and never have knocked the welch plug out during the cam installation. You'd have to be really violent to knock out the plug.

 

[Woods74]

...Um, yeaaaah; pull the old one out, inspect the cam bearings; put the new one in.

My first cam swap was pull it out; put it in and break it in. I'd advise the same for you.

Don't over think it. This ain't rockets and space.

 

[Bad Sport]

This is my very first cam swap and I really don't want to mess it up!

Don't overthink it, just use plenty of lube, and go easy when installing it. The key is to go slow and not ding the cam bearings.

 

[TrailBeast]

Don't overthink it, just use plenty of lube, and go easy when installing it. The key is to go slow and not ding the cam bearings.

Exactly, and when the cam gets to the oil pump drive gear take your best guess.
It might take a try or two so the slot is in the right place.
The slot in the center of the oil pump drive gear is supposed to be about this angle if you want it in the factory position.
Otherwise you will have to be moving plug wires to different places in the cap to get the number one cylinder wire to be where it needs to be to run.

Also you can rotate it one more tooth clockwise and it helps the vac advance can clear aftermarket intakes.
The slot would then be almost exactly inline with the block instead of pointing to that #1 cylinder intake bolt, and it would not require moving wires.
The vac can will just be back a little closer to the firewall instead of pointing more forward.

 

[Trevor B]

Exactly, and when the cam gets to the oil pump drive gear take your best guess.
It might take a try or two so the slot is in the right place.
The slot in the center of the oil pump drive gear is supposed to be about this angle if you want it in the factory position.
Otherwise you will have to be moving plug wires to different places in the cap to get the number one cylinder wire to be where it needs to be to run.

Also you can rotate it one more tooth clockwise and it helps the vac advance can clear aftermarket intakes.
The slot would then be almost exactly inline with the block instead of pointing to that #1 cylinder intake bolt, and it would not require moving wires.
The vac can will just be back a little closer to the firewall instead of pointing more forward.

THANK YOU! (and thanks to everyone else) ^ This is gold ^

I'm trying to walk the fine line between over-thinking and not-enough-thinking...

It didn't even occur to me that I was totally going to end up with some weird-looking distributor cap wiring. I'll use some string to try to line up the slot with that hole then advance one tooth.

Assuming I need to have cylinder 1 at TDC - Any way to figure out if it's on the compression stroke without the heads on?

 

[Daves69]

If concerned of knocking the plug use maybe attach the cam sprocket or a large washer to bottom on during install.

 

[fratzog lover]

Don't over think it. This ain't rockets and space.

Tellin ya now, I'm stealin that.

 

[TrailBeast]

THANK YOU! (and thanks to everyone else) ^ This is gold ^

I'm trying to walk the fine line between over-thinking and not-enough-thinking...

It didn't even occur to me that I was totally going to end up with some weird-looking distributor cap wiring. I'll use some string to try to line up the slot with that hole then advance one tooth.

Assuming I need to have cylinder 1 at TDC - Any way to figure out if it's on the compression stroke without the heads on?

The cam determines the compression and exhaust stroke.
Just put your balancer timing mark at TDC and install the cam as per the manufacturer instructions.

Another way to determine the compression stroke with heads and rockers off is to note that both lobes of the cam on the number one cylinder will be facing down away from it's lifters. (or close)

I don't think you'll need the string, as even just a tooth off is pretty obvious.
The distributor drive slot will almost be facing straight forward and back inline with the block instead of at an angle like the pic above shows.
Once it's all together and your timing is set your vacuum can will be pointing more toward the passenger side instead of forward where it runs out of room to turn by hitting the back of an intake like this.

This is a Chevy motor because it was the best quickest example I could find, but the problem is the same.