Cam plug with O-Ring

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gregcon

gregcon

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I made this plug today, haven't drilled the attaching holes yet. But I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this, and if it worked well?

I've never had a problem with the factory concave or pressed in plugs, but it seems an O-ring and fasteners would be more reliable. I've seen people use 'safety plates' over the concave plugs but I haven't seen the concave plug eliminated altogether.
R3 Cam plug .jpg
R3 cam plug.jpg
 
I just completed a build on mine, a 318, the only thing i would advise is if you are using an automatic transmission, i had a 904 auto transmission and when i connected the flex plate to the torque converter the bolt heads were really close and my plug was concaved and fit kinda like the freeze plugs,if the plug you have sticks out very much ,your flex plate bolt heads are gonna be close.
 
I wouldn't do it. You could create a spot for a crack to start if you drill that thin boss and I agree flex plate bolts will hit it.
 
I thought about the fle plate or flywheel hitting but I dont have an easy way to check that just yet.

The boss is plenty thick for drilling an d tapping.
 
I don't think you'll have trouble with the block cracking in that area, it's plenty thick as you said. What happens when the o-ring dries out though? .....and it WILL dry out. Sealant with the press in camshaft freeze plug lasts forever. I do like though. It's a neat idea and a good execution.
 
Why drill the boss? Drill the two plugs on each side.............
 
gregcon said:
I made this plug today, haven't drilled the attaching holes yet. But I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this, and if it worked well?

I've never had a problem with the factory concave or pressed in plugs, but it seems an O-ring and fasteners would be more reliable. I've seen people use 'safety plates' over the concave plugs but I haven't seen the concave plug eliminated altogether. View attachment 1715566943 View attachment 1715566944
Click to expand...

So you say you've never had a problem with the factory concave plugs and yet you burned how much time and $$$ on this? And you're not done. Why? I don't re-engineer the wheel just to say it's round-again. J.Rob
 
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RAMM said:
So you say you've never had a problem with the factory concave plugs and yet you burned how much time and $$$ on this? And you're not done. Why? I don't re-engineer the wheel just to say it's round-again. J.Rob
Click to expand...

Time - 35 minutes. It was either make this cam plug or watch Oprah for the 8th time in one day.

Money - $0. Well, I guess it took 12 cents worth of electricity to run the lathe.

Are you really gonna take that approach? Why do we do anything to our cars and engines when the stock parts will get you down the road just fine? I've always thought the factory cam plug - while it works - was a little shaky. There is 225lbs. pushing on that plug through hot and cold conditions. Not only does the plug have to hold that pressure, it also has to seal it from leaking hot oil.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I don't think you'll have trouble with the block cracking in that area, it's plenty thick as you said. What happens when the o-ring dries out though? .....and it WILL dry out. Sealant with the press in camshaft freeze plug lasts forever. I do like though. It's a neat idea and a good execution.
Click to expand...

If there's one thing we all learned from Kansas, it's that nothing last forever but the Earth and sky. And Al Gore taught us that even the Earth and sky will be gone within 12 years. Make that 9 years 'cuz he said it a while back. A high quality o-ring will still be doing its job long after I'm dead and gone, and the engine is also dead and gone.
 
gregcon said:
I made this plug today, haven't drilled the attaching holes yet. But I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this, and if it worked well?

I've never had a problem with the factory concave or pressed in plugs, but it seems an O-ring and fasteners would be more reliable. I've seen people use 'safety plates' over the concave plugs but I haven't seen the concave plug eliminated altogether. View attachment 1715566943 View attachment 1715566944
Click to expand...
How does it stay in?
 
I'll use some screws...probably (4) 10-24...to hold it in place.
 
abdywgn said:
freeze plugs on the side of the block are "retained"...oval track? I think it was. looked like a brass tack at three spots.
Click to expand...
old school would be drill and tap a 10-32 hole on each side to hold a steel strap across the plug. unless you have a boss 302 with screw in plugs
DSCN2191.JPG
 
I know that plug would hit!

I should mention this is an R3 block with a straight 2.125" bearing bore...there is no shoulder for the concave plug to bottom against. I haven't looked at a regular block in a long time but I think there is a shoulder.

Those straps have been around forever but they are just a retention strap, they still rely on the concave plug to seal.
 
gregcon said:
There is 225lbs. pushing on that plug through hot and cold conditions.
Click to expand...

I'd like to see where you came up with this. The plug holds zero pressure from anything. Are you trying to say the camshaft rides against the plug? It does not. The thrust plate keeps the cam from moving one direction, while the cam gear the other. The camshaft never hits the the cam plug. You've been fed some incorrect information there.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'd like to see where you came up with this. The plug holds zero pressure from anything. Are you trying to say the camshaft rides against the plug? It does not. The thrust plate keeps the cam from moving one direction, while the cam gear the other. The camshaft never hits the the cam plug. You've been fed some incorrect information there.
Click to expand...
Any oil pressure that leaks out around the rear cam bearing would be minimal.
 
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